The Cluny Museum on the Left Financial institution within the coronary heart of Paris is usually ignored in favor of the Louvre or the Orsay or different world-class points of interest. However should you love the weird and are attracted by the Center Ages, the Cluny will probably be a discovery you’ll lengthy bear in mind. Listed below are a few of its highlights.
Like hundreds of different guests to Paris (I stay in southeastern France), I in some way bypassed the Cluny Museum for years and solely determined to lastly go to after studying concerning the well-known Woman and the Unicorn tapestries.
I did it flawed the primary time – I rushed by to the tapestries, that are positioned close to the top of the go to, and uncared for what’s sure to be probably the most astounding assortment of artwork from the medieval period in France.
A number of weeks later, I used to be again in Paris, and my lodge occurred to be positioned subsequent door to the Musée de Cluny. It was an indication, and so I rushed again. This time, having seen the tapestries as soon as, I took a extra leisurely method – and stumbled upon most of the treasures I had missed.
So don’t make the error I did, and take your time visiting the museum because it unfurls. I’ve tried to make it simpler by highlighting 11 masterpieces I believe it’s best to search for (sure, it is a very subjective checklist!) in your first go to.
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It’s formally referred to as the Nationwide Museum of the Center Ages, however everybody is aware of it as “the Cluny”, and whereas it’s most positively a medieval museum, it’s constructed on prime of the ruins of Gallo-Roman baths, symbolically bridging the hole between the 2 eras.
You may see the baths from the surface, however non permanent exhibitions typically happen within the indoor space, shielding elements of it from view.
Regardless of the non permanent exhibitions (these are all the time price seeing, by the way in which) you possibly can nonetheless simply get a way of the baths’ monumental dimensions ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla AlyanakPositioned within the fifth arrondissement on the Left Financial institution’s Latin Quarter, this extremely wealthy museum is inside simple strolling distance of Notre-Dame, just some blocks from the Seine River.
11 Treasures of the Cluny Museum
A lot of it’s possible you’ll be in a rush to learn concerning the Woman and the Unicorn tapestries, and your (comprehensible) anxiousness could rob you of a go to to the remainder of the gathering. Consequently, I positioned them close to the top of this story however – should you actually can’t wait – go forward and click on by to the tapestries now. Simply don’t neglect to come back again!
1. The Frigidarium, or Roman baths
As I discussed, the Cluny is constructed upon historic Gallo-Roman baths, of which solely the frigidarium (or chilly room) stays, together with its extremely excessive (14m/46ft) vaulted ceiling. It dates again to the first or 2nd century CE and appears to me related in general look to the Constantine Baths within the southern metropolis of Arles.
These have been as soon as a part of the thermal baths of Lutetia (the Roman title for Paris), among the many largest baths within the metropolis.
If I checklist the Roman ruins first, it’s as a result of the baths are positioned proper on the museum’s entrance. And if they’re partly hidden by an exhibit, don’t be concerned, you may discover extra Roman ruins, principally partitions, scattered all through the museum’s decrease flooring.
However now, time for the Center Ages, which is in spite of everything what the Cluny is all about.
2. Gallery of the Kings of Judah
If you stumble into this gallery, your first response may be shock.
On one aspect, a sequence of headless statues. On the opposite, a sequence of heads – with out statues.
The statues (with heads) as soon as stood alongside the western façade of Notre-Dame Cathedral, however have been eliminated in the course of the French Revolution. They confirmed topped heads and as we all know, the revolution was anti-monarchical, so the statues have been torn down and beheaded, mistakenly thought to characterize kings of France.
These Thirteenth-century statues as soon as stood alongside the western façade of Notre-Dame in Paris earlier than being ripped out in the course of the French Revolution. ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla AlyanakThey weren’t French kings in any respect, however the Kings of Judah, ancestors of the Virgin Mary.
Two centuries after the revolution, in 1977, a number of statues and fragments resurfaced, the medieval sculptures unearthed throughout excavations within the ninth arrondissement.
Solely 21 of the unique 28 statues have been discovered and positioned within the museum, however this stays one of many main French archeological finds of the twentieth century.
3. Funeral slabs and decor
Funeral monuments have been used for so long as societies have existed, and several other intriguing examples are within the Cluny.
There’s a set of funeral stones mounted on the wall in your left as you head into the principle a part of the museum (see above), however the one which intrigued me probably the most was this small sculpture of two canine.
Most males’s tombs are guarded by the marginally extra majestic lion, recognized for its bravery, however in relation to girls, canine are sometimes used as an emblem of constancy.
4. The treasure of Guarrazar
In fact there’s a treasure on the Cluny.
The Treasure of Guarrazar got here from Spain (then Hispania) in the course of the seventh century. It’s extremely wealthy, with crowns and gold crosses and valuable stones, all given in tribute to the Roman Catholic Church by Visigoth kings.
These crowns weren’t designed to be worn, simply uncovered on altars for all to see ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak5. Stained glass home windows from the Sainte-Chapelle
There’s an exquisite exhibition of stained glass home windows which as soon as belonged to the Sainte-Chapelle, constructed by Saint Louis to carry the sacred relics. The items of stained glass are scattered all through the room, created in the course of the Thirteenth century with new glass methods that have been denser and extra colourful.
The statues have been all sculpted by totally different artists, which accounts for his or her variety in types ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak6. Altarpieces
Spiritual artistry being supreme within the medieval period, it shouldn’t shock us that a lot of the period’s creative expertise can be put to make use of to adorn non secular objects and constructions.
The Cluny has a number of beautiful examples of spiritual altars, each original in steel or sculpted in wooden, utilizing a type of “microsculpture” method that reveals the unbelievable craftsmanship concerned right here.
Basel Cathedral altar dates from the early eleventh century in gold, symbolizing each gentle and wealth, donated to the church by the German emperor on the time, he and his spouse are proven prostrated on the foot of Christ, displaying their private devotion ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak
This picket altar dates from the early sixteenth century and was sculpted in Flanders, in Antwerp, displaying a mass being celebrated. Left, lamb being sacrificed; proper, benediction of Abraham. ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla Alyanak7. Bookbinding plates
The museum has a number of ebook covers designed to be used of remarkable publications, corresponding to illuminated manuscripts. I merely discovered these magnificent and needed to share them with you.
8. Listing of goldsmiths
That is an uncommon merchandise and I’ve but to determine precisely the way it was used, nevertheless it’s a listing of goldsmiths from the metropolis of Rouen, displaying every particular person punch or stamp, maybe to assist in authenticating priceless works.
9. The chapel
The chapel is a pleasant room and also you’ll miss the most effective half should you don’t lookup.
There was as soon as direct entry to the backyard from right here, however as we speak, what compels us is the construction’s structure, which revolves round a single pillar resting within the middle, from which unfold 4 ribbed vaults. Small however intricate.
Along with the ceiling, a small priory with polychrome painted panels stays within the room ©OffbeatFrance/Leyla AlyanakThe chapel was recurrently utilized by the homeowners of the constructing, the Abbots of Cluny, who used it as their Parisian residence. Right now, it’s the metropolis’s oldest standing “lodge particulier”, or medieval Paris townhouse.
10. The chess gamers
This tiny gem (far smaller than it appears on {a photograph}) is made from brilliant yellow stained glass, and the competitors of the sport may properly mirror a special type of competitors, maybe involving a little bit of romance. Simply take a look at the facial expressions! To not point out the way in which her hand is gently positioned on his arm, or the angle at which he’s leaning ahead…
11. Woman and the Unicorn tapestries
And now, right here we’re, ultimately.
Six legendary tapestries from the late fifteenth century, in all probability woven in Flanders, whose expert weavers have been extremely wanted.
Every tapestry is a standalone, and tells its personal story a few unicorn and a woman. All comply with the same visible theme, with related colours, and backgrounds crammed with animals and flowers within the “millefleurs” model.
And but, nobody actually is aware of what they imply.
They might characterize the 5 senses, with the sixth devoted to one thing rather less concrete, like soul or coronary heart or love. Others see in them some type of seek for non secular enlightenment. You may learn what you need into them…
The Woman and the Unicorn, intimately
The tapestries are thought thus far again to the top of the fifteenth century, commissioned by a wealthy household from Lyon, the Le Vistes, whose coat of arms you may see scattered all through the tapestry sequence. An artist would have been employed to attract them, with the drawings then despatched to Flanders for weaving.
We solely know this as a result of after being misplaced to historical past for some 4 centuries, they resurfaced immediately.
The primary time they have been dropped at anybody’s consideration was in 1841, when gender-fluid author George Sand noticed them on the Chateau de Boussac, the place she was staying. She promptly advised her then lover, Prosper Mérimée, about them, and he had them listed within the listing of historic monuments he was in control of compiling.
Sand (who additionally had a decade-long liaison with pianist Frederic Chopin) wrote of eight tapestries, not six, and historians have been making an attempt to find out the destiny of the opposite two. It’s believed the homeowners of the chateau the place they have been found, soiled and rat-infested, could have used the opposite two as wagon covers or as rugs, however no hint has ever been discovered.
The Cluny Museum purchased the six current tapestries in 1882, cleaned them up, and the remainder is historical past, offering magic and fascination to everybody who visits.
➽ Lighting within the room devoted to the Woman and Unicorn sequence is designed for remark, not pictures. I took these with an iPhone however you will discover clearer photos on the Cluny Museum web site, if you would like to look at them extra intently.
Sight
Right here, we see a woman holding a mirror in order that the unicorn can see its personal reflection. The mirror might symbolize vainness, whereas the unicorn’s reflection its innocence. Keep in mind that again then, unicorns have been believed to exist and their horns thought to have the flexibility to treatment. They have been fleet, so quick they might by no means be caught – besides by a virgin. They usually symbolized purity and advantage.
The plush backyard, for its half, may very well be referring to fertility and the great thing about nature, given its many crops and flowers. These, by the way in which, are reproduced all through the tapestries.
The truth that the girl’s hair is unfastened relatively than pinned up alerts she might be single, therefore the broadly accepted virginal theme of this tapestry.
Listening to
The message of sound is obvious, with the girl enjoying an instrument and the unicorn listening with rapt consideration. The musical instrument may very well be an emblem of concord, and even the unicorn appears happy.
Scent
The girl is holding a small bouquet of flowers, whereas the unicorn is respiratory within the aroma of a bush.
The floral bouquet might symbolize sensuality, and the unicorn’s enjoyment of it the decision of earthly pleasures. The coat of arms of the Le Viste household is turning into ever extra seen.
Style
There may be sweetness and indulgence on this tapestry, with the girl reaching for a sweet or sugar. Or maybe she plans on sharing the candy with the unicorn, who appears happy, expectant, even. This can be a picture of shared pleasures, of some type of mutual involvement or satisfaction.
Contact
The girl holds the unicorn’s horn with one hand and her husband’s coat of arms within the different. Some say this might symbolize wealth and materialism, however the touching of the unicorn might additionally characterize intimacy, or therapeutic (bear in mind the horn’s supposed therapeutic properties?)
À mon seul désir (To my solely want)
And herein lies the best thriller, the girl standing beneath these phrases – which nobody has been capable of perceive.
She locations her necklace into the casket, which might signify the handing again of earthly possessions, maybe a rejection of kinds. The tent-like construction might characterize an upcoming journey, with the girl’s gaze inviting us to enter the tapestry’s that means, however with out giving us many clues.
I’m positive you’ve made the connection by now however this last tapestry was additionally featured in Harry Potter and the Thinker’s Stone, because the wall ornament within the frequent rooms of Gryffindor Home, the place it symbolized courtliness, valor and chivalry, qualities a lot revered in the course of the medieval interval.
And so the tapestries of the Woman and the Unicorn have enchanted us, stunned us, however not enlightened us. No documentation about their that means exists, and we will solely guess as we sit within the darkened room, making an attempt to seize the message she is making an attempt to ship us.
The medieval mansion that grew to become a museum
As I discussed, a spiritual order owned the property till the nineteenth century, when it was damaged up into a number of heaps. One in all these was taken up by Alexandre du Sommerard, a senior auditor with the federal government, who occurred to be fascinated by the Center Ages.
When he died in 1842, the French authorities acquired the property alongside together with his artwork assortment, and so the museum opened its doorways in March 1844.
A number of years in the past, intensive renovations have been determined and it closed for 20 months, reopening in 2022 with a brand new entrance, reception space and reward store, all designed by architect Bernard Desmoulin – no imply feat since he needed to deal with the existence of large Gallo-Roman baths…
Earlier than you go…
The sheer magnificence and beautiful craftsmanship of those items are sufficient to rivet guests.
However in addition they serve a historic objective, a bit just like the well-known tapestry of Bayeux, to inform the story of medieval instances, to elucidate the luxuries of medieval noble existence, and even to lift the perennial fascination with the legendary unicorn, one in all many symbols contained within the tapestries.
The tapestries are among the many biggest treasures of medieval artwork in existence, for his or her magnificence, in fact, but in addition for the intrigue and thriller which envelops them. It shouldn’t shock us that they’ve been collectively nicknamed the “Mona Lisa of the Center Ages”.
THE PERFECT BOOK TO READ BEFORE VISITING THE TAPESTRIES
An intriguing novel, The Woman and the Unicorn, by Tracy Chevalier, imagines the commissioning of the tapestries, their weaving in Flanders, and the meanings behind them. Whereas a novel, a lot analysis went into the ebook, which brings your complete weaving course of to life and opens a window into the courtly customs of the time. Purchase it right here on Amazon.
The Cluny, France’s Nationwide Museum of the Center Ages, is one in all my favourite Paris museums, up there with the Carnavalet (concerning the historical past of Paris), and price visiting a number of instances, so subsequent time you’re in Paris, don’t miss this little gem.
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