Nestled in Normandy’s deep south, the Perche Regional Nature Park presents tranquil forests, bijou communities, and a few severely spectacular horsepower. Gillian Thornton steps down a gear.
Pottering across the Perche
Ask me to explain my good vacation spot for a spot of relaxation and rest and I’ll normally plump for rolling countryside, historic villages, and cosy eating places. Add in just a few impartial retailers or markets for some light retail remedy and also you’ve virtually ticked all my containers. Solely factor lacking can be some type of animal content material, ideally with an exercise hooked up.
In order I jolt fortunately down a woodland monitor in a horse-drawn open carriage, I’ve to say that the Perche Regional Pure Park (PNR) presents every thing I would like for the proper chill-out break. Positioned within the south-east nook of Normandy, the Perche is simply 140km from Paris, making it a well-liked weekend vacation spot for metropolis dwellers in addition to for cross-Channel guests.
Percheron horses
Many of the park lies inside the division of Orne, spilling over into the Centre area east of Nogent-le-Rotrou, and its protected standing covers each pure surroundings and constructed panorama, heritage websites and rural traditions. Amongst these traditions is the Percheron heavy horse, believed up to now again to the 11th century when Rotrou, Depend of the Perche, introduced Arabian stallions again from the First Campaign and crossed them with native heavy horses.
Often gray, however often black, Percherons are good-natured, light, and ideally suited to working the forests and small hedge-lined fields or bocage of southern Normandy. As soon as a standard sight on farms all through the realm, their numbers declined sharply as agriculture grew to become more and more mechanised between the wars. However now, because of a bunch of devoted lovers, breeding is steadily on the up.
Because the early Nineties, Percheron stallions imported from America have been bred with French mares to supply two fundamental varieties – a draught horse used for farming and hauling timber, and a lighter animal used for using, driving and competitions. As somebody who has ridden all my life however not often skilled carriage driving, I booked a two-hour tour from the Ferme de l’Absoudière in Cordon for a style of conventional horsepower. And what energy! Seated up beside the motive force, I watch two units of highly effective hindquarters sway rhythmically to the sound of jangling harness as we trot down nation lanes and forest tracks. It’s a magical if barely bumpy method to journey!
One of the best of rural Normandy
However horsepower is only one method to discover the Perche. There’s a wealth of inspiration on the Maison du Parc, administrative centre and customer facility for the Regional Nature Park which stands within the grounds of the Manoir du Courboyer, a 15th century turreted manor home a brief drive from Cordon at Nocé. Meet different native livestock breeds, purchase artisan merchandise, and pattern regional farm produce reminiscent of cider, honey and cheese.
This rural nook of Normandy is bisected by the GR22 and GR35, two Grande Randonnée lengthy distance climbing trails, in addition to the Chemin de Chartres resulting in Mont-Saint-Michel. Or strive the 220km Tour des Collines du Perche which splits neatly into eight segments for walkers and 4 for cycle vacationers. Too energetic? Then comply with one in all 9 tranquil driving routes that embody Forests and Abbeys, Chateaux and Lakes, and Valleys and Mills.
The Perche could also be a rural space of farmland and forest, but it surely additionally boasts a protracted industrial heritage. The woods supplied charcoal, the rivers powered mills and foundries, and the bottom yielded uncooked supplies of iron and clay. Be careful for the label Savoir-faire du Parc Naturel Régional du Perche to determine crafts folks nonetheless utilizing native supplies.
Nothing within the Perche proves to be way more than an hour from my base on the pleasant Hôtel du Tribunal at Mortagne-au-Perche, a buzzing market city of simply 4,500 inhabitants that was as soon as the executive centre for the Counts of Perche. In the present day the medieval rampart partitions have principally gone however the historic streets are nonetheless dotted with positive buildings, to not point out 27 sundials. Observe the numbered panels on the Circuit du Patrimoine and put together for some surprises.
The trendy medical facility, as an illustration, has retained the beautiful cloister of a 16th century convent. Take within the wood roof timbers formed like an upturned boat earlier than heading contained in the huge painted chapel. Benefit from the panoramic countryside views from the general public gardens behind the City Corridor and perhaps pattern the city’s signature foodie deal with – black pudding. Each producer has his personal secret recipe. The Saturday morning market can be loaded with native foodie temptation, an atmospheric method to take up the realm’s gastronomic traditions.
A land of large timber
The Perche forests are filled with spectacular large timber – notably oak and beech – however equally arresting are the lofty twin towers of the Chappelle de Montligeon, constructed between 1896 and 1911 by parish priest Abbé Buguet. His intention was to ship souls left in purgatory and promote social justice and while the basilica is immediately a spot of pilgrimage, it is usually a enterprise centre primarily based on the printing works that he based. Pop inside to admire the stained-glass home windows.
Native commerce is essentially small scale. Anticipate small, artisan companies reminiscent of vintage sellers and galleries, bookshops, woodworkers, and furnishings restorers, to not point out family-run eating places and tea rooms. Exterior Mortagne-au-Perche, I discover Chez Nous Campagne, the place Cécile Schmitt combines a boutique promoting inside décor gadgets with a tearoom and gîte enterprise, multi functional tempting bundle.
And there may be extra retail temptation in Bellême, former capital of the Perche, and in close by La Perrière. Each have been labelled Petites Cités de Caractère by the Orne division together with Longny-au-Perche. Items to take residence? Attempt La Savonnerie de La Chappelle in Bellême for soaps, candles, and a complete lot extra, and don’t miss Chocolaterie Bataille, the place artisan chocolate-maker Christophe Henninger creates seasonal candies for each event. In La Perrière, browse for native produce, antiques, and dried flowers at Monteloup, a trendy boutique with three chambre d’hôte bedrooms upstairs run by vintage vendor Jérôme and skilled florist Gil.
Nogent-le-Rotrou
Largest city within the Perche is Nogent-le-Rotrou, simply over the regional border within the division of Eure-et-Loir. Categorised amongst Michelin’s 100 Plus Beaux Détours de France, this historic group of fewer than 10,000 folks stands within the Huisne valley, dominated by Saint-Jean Citadel which was as soon as residence to – you guessed it – the Counts of Perche. Stroll by means of the reconstructed medieval and Renaissance gardens across the citadel and Bellême’s Belle Epoque public gardens, simply two of many floral plots that welcome guests all through the Perche.
Thiron Abbey
Head east from Nogent to go to Thiron-Gardais, residence to Thiron Abbey. Based within the 12th century, the buildings had been largely destroyed after the Revolution however the abbey itself nonetheless acts because the parish church and entry to the thematic gardens is free. Or head west, again in the direction of Bellême to go to the Ecomusée du Perche inside the historic partitions of the 11th century priory of Sainte-Gauburge at Saint-Cyr-la-Rosière.
Whichever approach you flip, the Perche is a delight for anybody who desires to step down a gear and calm down amongst tranquil countryside and atmospheric villages. A breath of recent air whichever approach you take a look at it!
Helpful web sites:
www.normandie-tourisme.fr
www.parc-naturel-perche.fr/en
www.ornetourisme.com
By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers.
This text was first printed in The Good Life France Journal
All rights reserved. This text might not be printed, broadcast, rewritten (together with translated) or redistributed with out written permission.
