Janine Marsh explores lagoons and canals and falls head over heels for barge journey…
The French have a phrase for individuals who like to walk and not using a objective apart from to benefit from the journey and surprising joys and wonder encountered en route – to flâner. I’m unsure there’s a phrase for wandering by barge, however I can let you know that the expertise of travelling slowly on a CroisiEurope cruise on the Rhone Canal within the sun-kissed south of France is one you’ll always remember
Throughout my journey I’d step again in time some 2,500 years. Encounter extraordinary wildlife. Go to a number of the most lovely cities and villages I’ve ever seen. Make new pals, and discover the heritage, tradition, gastronomy and wine of southern France. And I, like the remainder of the visitors on CroisiEurope’s MS Anne Marie barge, can be totally spoiled, totally pampered and completely enthralled by the complete expertise.
Barging on a unprecedented waterway
Sète was the start line for our journey. A sunny, vibrant metropolis that sits between the Mediterranean Sea and the Etang de Thau, a biodiverse saltwater lagoon (you possibly can learn extra about Sète and the native space on web page 80). Recent fish is bought alongside the quays and oyster tasting is de rigeur – washed down with a glass of native Picpoul, a really outdated French wine, made within the Languedoc for not less than 400 years. There’s even a museum devoted to oysters and people who fish for them, reached by a mulberry tree lined avenue that’s brimming with cafes and bistros, overlooking the glowing, azure blue lagoon.
By the tip of the primary night time on board, all of the visitors have been chatting as if pals, moderately than strangers who met only a few hours earlier than. A mixture of Swiss, American, British, Norwegian, Belgian and French, although everybody spoke English together with the employees who’re good, consummate professionals. The bedrooms are comfortable, charming and air conditioned. The meals and wine is superb; bikes are offered and there’s a scorching tub on deck.
A channel carved from the ocean
Our journey from Sète to Arles took us alongside the well-known Canal du Rhône. This completely tranquil waterway runs by way of the center of a lagoon. It seems to be like a channel carved from the ocean. It’s extraordinary, lovely, otherworldly even. At instances we have been adopted by shoals of fish glowing within the crystal clear blue inexperienced water and watched by flocks of pale pink flamingos. Cyclists handed by on the paths that run alongside the canal peppered with herbs. And crops that thrive within the salty sea air and scorching solar whose scent carries onto the deck.
Oysters cling to the partitions and seabirds float on the calm floor ready for fish to pop up. Enjoyable on deck with a ebook, watching the wildlife, listening to the light lapping of the water and stopping at a number of the most lovely and interesting locations in southern France – effectively it doesn’t get a lot better.
Brutal however good
At Palavas-les-Flots we joined vacation makers and locals for a dip within the Med. It’s an uncommon city, established as a customs fort and a fishing village late within the 18th century. Its fortunes modified within the Nineteen Fifties when President Charles de Gaulle decreed holidays needs to be accessible for all individuals in France. Then he had a number of purpose-built resorts created alongside the south coast – together with right here.
“Brutalism” is what they name the architectural type of the concrete house blocks that have been moderately hurriedly slung up. However nobody cares, you don’t come right here to take a seat indoors. The silky delicate sandy seashores are infinite, and the water is heat. A girl walked alongside the seashore promoting sticky, candy donuts like one thing out of a Nineteen Sixties French movie and I half anticipated Brigitte Bardot to return trotting alongside.
Sunbathers have been stretched out in rows. One of many Norwegian girls from the barge whispered to me “I’m an undertaker and taking a look at all these our bodies mendacity on the seashore makes me need to tie a label to their toes” which made all of us giggle out loud. Outdated people have been sat sensibly underneath vibrant parasols. The ocean was full of individuals swimming and splashing. Seagulls hovered overhead able to swoop on something that appeared prefer it would possibly style good. Little youngsters made sandcastles. It’s straightforward to see why this place is fashionable regardless of the brutalist blocks.
The Camargue
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer is the capital of the Camargue. It’s the very best level within the space at simply 3m above sea degree. 80% of the land is lower than 1m above sea degree and so numerous dikes and dams have been constructed to forestall flooding and the salt water of the Rhône flows into the canals that cross the land. It’s a fertile space. Rice is grown within the marshy lands which helps to fight the salinity within the soil. This in flip helps the vineyards to flourish. All over the place there are huge fields of sunflowers, grain and greens.
The city of Saintes-Maries is all in regards to the yellow-stone church within the centre wherein resides a well-known statue. Legend has it that some disciples of Jesus, together with Mary Jacobi and Mary Salome and a servant referred to as Sarah, fled Palestine in a ship and landed on the seashore right here. They’re mentioned to have been buried within the crypt. The city has since change into a spot of pilgrimage for gypsies whose patron saint is Sarah. The statue of her within the crypt is roofed in sparkly cloaks positioned there by worshippers. It’s a festive and really vibrant place.
We stopped off at a ranch close by to satisfy a number of the well-known black bulls and white horses of the Camargue and the guardians, like French cowboys and cowgirls, who herd them. Learn extra in regards to the Camargue right here. Alongside the drive, flamingos, which reside right here year-round, have been a standard sight paddling within the shallow water of canals that run beside the roads. It’s a sight that lifts your soul.
A bucket listing of southern France
This journey ticked off a number of bucket listing locations for me. The primary being Aigues-Mortes. We moored up underneath the shade of a tree, a stone’s throw from the good arched entrance to the walled metropolis. Medieval Aigues-Mortes is surrounded by 11m excessive ramparts and dominated by the 33m excessive Tour de Constance. From the tower you possibly can spot Nimes – 40 km away. The city is criss crossed by winding cobbled streets lined with boutiques, eating places and historic homes.
It was inbuilt 1240 on the orders of Louis IX. An odd alternative you would possibly assume since its title actually interprets to “lifeless waters”, derived from the tidal salt flats on which the city sits. Nevertheless it was an excellent place for commerce within the south of France. It’s a superbly preserved, pickled up to now Provençal city, with 10 gates and 14 towers. And in its heyday, it was a serious port, although it’s now marooned three miles from the ocean.
The flower-filled streets unfold out round a central airplane tree stuffed sq.. Within the center is a statue of King Louis atop a fountain wherein youngsters play. Not solely is it a stupendous little city, it’s on the sting of the well-known pink salt lakes which characteristic the most important colony of flamingos in Europe.
A unprecedented pink sea
We hopped aboard somewhat vacationer prepare for a guided tour of the lakes and the salt museum. The sight of miles and miles of pink sea and within the background, shimmering like a mirage, the walled city of Aigues Mortes is astounding. You virtually really feel as should you’re on one other planet. Mountains of salt are harvested right here, simply because it has been for the reason that days of antiquity.
It’s a tall order to reside as much as that go to. However Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert, one other bucket lister for me, stepped as much as the plate. Formally one of many prettiest villages in France, it’s tranquil even in peak summer time months because it’s moderately off the crushed observe. Learn extra about Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert right here.
Dazzling Arles
And eventually, one other bucket listing vacation spot – Arles. The traditional metropolis is nothing in need of magnificent. Romans stays, historic church buildings, winding cobbled streets, artwork galleries, road theatre, unimaginable eating places. Van Gogh’s imaginative and prescient of Arles is obvious. The scenes he painted right here together with Café Terrace at Evening and Starry Evening Over the Rhône, are marked with data boards within the city. And the hospital the place he was admitted after chopping off his ear is now a full of life and bustling cultural hub, lined with small boutiques and eating places set round a vibrant internal courtyard. I’d been informed that everybody who sees Arles falls in love with it – and I did too.
(Learn extra about Arles right here)
On our final night time, because the solar set over Arles, its golden rays glowing on the water, a singer/guitarist arrived to carry out for us on deck. His voice carried throughout the water and passers-by stopped to take a seat and hearken to the impromptu live performance. I couldn’t assist however really feel what a privilege it was to be there. It was greater than a vacation. I made pals. Explored essentially the most lovely corners of France. And was totally spoiled by Hans, the tremendous host, and his every day cocktails, plus the chef’s fabulous meals.
Discover out extra and ebook your journey at: crosieurope.co.uk
This text was first printed in The Good Life France Journal
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