Simply steps from the prepare tracks resulting in and from the Saint-Lazare prepare station, Gare au Gorille is the brand new venture from two Septime alums, Marc Cordonnier (Grébaut’s former sous-chef) and his front-of-house companion Louis Langevin. With a hip hop soundtrack and aspirations no grander than to be a great bistro, the standard of meals they’re placing out will nonetheless appeal to the form of globetrotting gastronome crowd that they’re fleeing from at Septime.
Lunch on a chilly December day was a research in simplicity and steadiness: a soup of earthy Jerusalem artichoke with poached egg, smoked haddock, and a dab of vibrant sorrel pureé. Melting lamb shoulder napped by a profoundly deep jus and pierced by the bitter distinction of endives and turnips. Wealthy chocolate mousse textured by a excessive observe of verveine and a thump of crunchy peanut. With three programs at lunch for 27€, they had been turning individuals away on the door. Dinner is a program of small plates anchored by one or two huge hunks for carnivores to share (an aged fake filet for 39€, or half a Challans duck). Small plate highlights included smoked eel croquettes with a vinegary purple pepper purée (7€), sea scallops in a vibrant inexperienced puddle of cress (12€), and top-of-the-line duck terrines I’ve ever tasted (8€).
Followers of Septime and Clamato can be aware of the pure leaning wine listing (Vallette, de Moor, Bobinet & Bain), the polished rusticity of the inside design, and a good quantity of the service workers. This isn’t a criticism. On condition that Septime has develop into all however unimaginable to order, the copy of its greatest qualities in one other restaurant is one thing to be enthusiastic about.
GARE AU GORILLE
68, rue des Dames, 75017
Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner
Closed Saturday & Sunday.
Reservations on-line or at +33 1 42 94 24 02
Their Instagram / Our Instagram
OUR PHOTOS OF GARE AU GORILLE
IN OTHER WORDS
John Talbott (2014) “Thrilling meals served from begin to end.”
Not Ingesting Poison in Paris (2014) “Cordonnier and Langevin have summoned a blast from the current, replete with all of the tasteful grace notes of up-to-date Parisian restaurateurism: versatile menu building, a kindly-priced wine listing speckled with international alternatives, and terrific hospitality.”
The Wall Avenue Journal (2014) “In a cultured area close to Gare Saint-Lazare, chef Marc Cordonnier creates daring however balanced small plates, together with paper-thin slices of smoked monkfish slicked with sauce gribiche, and duck hearts with corn and shaved Gouda. Sommelier Louis Langevin has assembled a roster of pure wines from all over the world. Lunch stands out as the metropolis’s greatest deal proper now…”
Le Figaro (2014) “… bistrot de charme… une delicacies inattendue et raffinée.”
Alexander Lobrano (2014) “… a number of the greatest service I’ve had in Paris in a very long time… one of many the most effective duck terrines I’ve had throughout all my years in Paris with a lush garnish of quince and garlic puree embellished with carrot cash. Wealthy, emollient and distantly redolent of the barnyard like all nice terrine, this one was a homely Gallic triumph so good that we briefly thought of ordering one other portion.”
Les Grands Ducs (2014) “Et c’est de là que sortent des assiettes d’une délicatesse et d’une finesse intenses. Au déjeuner, au détour d’un menu à 25€ (on se pince), on a pu goûter… un beau morceau de cabillaud avec sa purée de cresson, ses larges feuilles de chou nappées, quelques pointes de romanesco et, en embuscade un peu de lard de colonnata… C’est beau, diaphane et délicat, les légumes sont parfaitement croquants et le poisson tendre comme les lèvres de votre bien-aimé(e) de retour de voyage.”
L’Categorical (2014) “Le soir, devant les belles tapas cousues essential, les grosses pièces de viande rôties entières (côtes de cochon fermier, pigeon sur coffre, fauxfilet de boeuf…), les pommes darphin ou dauphine comme on ne sait plus en faire à Paris, les fines gueules d’aujourd’hui remercient Louis Langevin et Marc Cordonnier de sortir de l’ornière un quartier sans appétit.”
John Talbott (2014) “You’re gonna have to order a long-time upfront. I additionally predict this can be a NYT fave very quickly.”
Le Fooding (2014) “Touffeur de croquettes de pied de porc et harissa maison se tenant sagement en deçà de l’emporte-gueule, relancée par quelques gorgées d’un blanc grec Hatzidakis Cuvée 15 timidement perlant; velouteux d’un marmoréen carpaccio de lotte fumée, amusé de pointes de «gribiche», céleri branche et trévise; suavité d’un combine animal-végétal de bœuf cru, langues d’oursin et pickles d’oignon sucrés sous une dentelle de chou fleur émincé.”
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