In a miserable, semi-apocalyptic yr outlined by reactionary responses to globalism, it’s truthful to ask ourselves what, precisely, we’re celebrating, after we have a good time the annual launch of Beaujolais Nouveau on Thursday.
Is Beaujolais Nouveau a logo of worldwide advertising and marketing run amok, a man-made wine-like confection of sugared-up, overproduced grapes, aimed straight on the decrease rungs of the world’s grocery store cabinets? Or does Beaujolais Nouveau signify somewhat the alternative: an homage to native custom, a village fête for new child wines, fragile and pure?
It relies upon the place one celebrates. In liquor shops, chain wine outlets, and supermarkets around the globe, imagine the worst about Beaujolais Nouveau. However Beaujolais Nouveau in Paris is one thing else. The town’s conventional bars and bistrots take pleasure in unparalleled entry to France’s pure wine scene, the place many winemakers handle to supply unadulterated primeur wines that retain the fleeting, eager flavors of their village origins. So in Paris in 2016 we will increase a glass to the ironic future of well-made Beaujolais Nouveau – a easy village wine that, merely by sustaining its simplicity, can turn into a curious luxurious.
What follows is an inventory and map of the Paris institutions internet hosting Beaujolais Nouveau events in 2016, together with whose wines they’ll be serving, and which winemakers, if any, are anticipated to be current for the event. (Nothing is assured. Winemakers are like that.)
Wednesday November 16, 2016 (the evening earlier than)
La Gown et le Palais (13 rue des Lavandières Sainte-Opportune, 75001) Proprietor Olivier Schvirtz and sommelier Loic Mougene throw Paris’ final remaining quality-conscious midnight-release celebration for Beaujolais Nouveau. Regular dinner service might be adopted by an all-night celebration, with – transport allowing – appearances by a lot of the winemakers whose wines might be on provide: Xavier Benier, Jean Foillard, Karim Vionnet, Jean-Claude Lapalu, Michel Guignier, Romain Paire, and Stephen Durieu. 11:00PM-5:00AM.
The annual “evening earlier than” celebration at La Gown et Le Palais on November 18, 2015. “Throw a stone and also you’d hit one the pirates of the wine group.” Picture and quote by Michaël Dandrieux
Thursday November 17, 2016
Aaron’s Picks
Café de la Nouvelle Mairie (19 rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, 75005) Benjamin Fourty and Corentin Cucillat are the most recent homeowners of this historic pure wine bar within the 5ème, which has modified palms over the course of its 20 years in enterprise, however has all the time remained a vacation spot for magnificent wine and easy bistrot delicacies. Saucisson au gène and a joue de boeuf will accompany the gypsy jazz of Paname Swing. Beaujo Nouveau by Man Breton & Jean-Claude Lapalu. 7:30PM – 1:45AM. Reservations really helpful for the eating room.
Beaujolais Nouveau at Café de la Nouvelle Mairie
Ma Cave de Fleury (77 deadlock Saint-Denis, 75002) Morgane Fleury, the fairy godmother of pure Champagne, hosts a rollocking Beaujolais Nouveau celebration with wines from France Gonzalvez & Remi Dufaitre, together with vin primeur from the Rhône’s Marcel Richaud, and conventional fanfare music by the Charlots d’Eon. 7:00PM – round midnight.
Morgane Fleury pours Beaujolais Nouveau at Ma Cave Fleury in 2013
La Quincave (17 rue Bréa, 75006) Frédéric Belcamp’s shelf-sized Montparnasse wine bar inaugurates three nights of “Bubbles & Beaujolais.” Come early for a variety of pétillant naturels and Beaujolais Nouveau from Man Breton, Karim Vionnet, Jean Foillard, Rémi Dufaitre, Stephen Durieu, Jean-Claude Lapalu, and France Goncalves – however keep for the group, which reliably consists of a who’s-who of the pure Beaujolais vanguard. From 7:00PM.
Celebrating at Le Quincave in 2013
Le Repaire de Cartouche (8 boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, 75011) Legendary terrine maestro Rodolphe Paquin celebrates Beaujo Nouveau with gusto. (The 2014 soirée noticed him gamely swap t-shirts with a buxom reveler behind the bar.) Beaujolais Nouveau from Man Breton, Karim Vionnet & Xavier Benier, together with vin primeur from Thierry Puzelat. Music: A stay accordian-guitar-chanteuse combo. To snack on: oysters, tripe, and scorching sausage. 7:30PM – 1:45AM.
Winemaker Réné-Jean Dard (proper) at Repaire de la Cartouche in 2013
Different Notable Beaujolais Nouveau Occasions
Left Financial institution
Along with high picks Café de la Nouvelle Mairie and La Quincave (see above)…
Au Sauvignon (80 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007) This well-preserved, Third-generation Auvergnat café boasts an accordion and keyboard duo and a particular scorching meal for the event: blanquette de veau, accessible by reservation solely. Primeurs by Karim Vionnet & Jean-Claude Lapalu. From 7:00PM.
La Cave des Papilles (35 rue Daguerre, 75014) Gerard Katz’s venerable pure wine store provides a tasting of vin primeurs that run the gamut of the viticultural areas of France. Beaujolais Nouveaux from Jean-Claude Lapalu, Romaine des Grottes, and Georges Descombes, plus different vins primeurs from Patrick Bouju (Auvergne), Thierry Puzelat (Loire), Jean-Christophe Comor (Provence), Marchel Richaud (Rhône), & Jean-François Nicq (Rousillon). 5:00PM – 9:00PM.
La Crèmerie (9 rue des Quatres Vents, 75006) might be taking part in Nick Cave and PJ Harvey and pouring primeurs from Beaujolais producers Rémi Dufaitre, France Goncalvez & Jean-Pascal Sarnin & Jean-Marie Berrux, plus Henri Milan’s pure Mourvèdre from les Baux de Provence, Nicolas Carmarans’ ‘Fer Servadou’ from Averon, and ‘Octobre Rouge’ from JF Nicq. Reservations are normally required at this tiny wine bar, however not tonight. Nevertheless, make this an early cease as a result of they’re solely open from 6:30-10:30pm.
Central Proper Financial institution (Les Halles-Palais Royal)
Along with high picks Ma Cave de Fleury & Le Rubis (see above)…
Le Garde Gown
Le Garde Gown (41 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001) They’ll be pouring Beaujolais Nouveau by France Goncalvez, Rémi Dufaitre, Sylvère Trichard and Stephan Durieu, together with copious bowls of onion soup, at this common pure wine bar by the Louvre. Jambon and truffled purée might be accessible. Music, in line with administration, will rely on how rammed it will get contained in the bar. 5:00PM – 2:00AM.
The Beaujolais Nouveau from Sylvère Trichard might be served by the magnum at Coinstot Vino (picture through their FB web page)
Coinstot Vino (26 passage des Panoramas, 75002) Guillaume Dupré’s evocative terraced bar within the Passage des Panoramas will roll out magnums of Beaujolais Nouveau from eight winemakers: Olivier Fallecker, France Gonzalvez, Romuald Vallot, Raphaël et Christelle Champier, Stephen Durieu, Karim Vionnet, Rémi Dufaitre, and Man Breton. Music by Christophe Rohr, “the punk accordionist.” From 6pm onward.
Juveniles (47 rue de Richelieu, 75001) Tim Johnston’s homey wine bistrot – now run by his daughter and son-in-law – will provide a Beaujolais-themed menu service for the night. Reservations are a should. However the restaurant invitations one and all for apéros till 8PM, that includes Johnston’s personal cuvée of Beaujolais Nouveau by Pierre-Marie Chermette.
North Paris (Montmartre-Pigalle-Gare du Nord)
La Pointe du Grouin (8 rue de Belzunce, 75010) Thierry Breton’s expansive, anarchic, service-free wine bar will host a live performance, a buffet of his frank nation delicacies, and full barrel of Château Cambon’s Beaujolais Nouveau. All-day.
Le Grand 8 (8 rue Lamarck, 75018) This belovedly easy bistrot close to Sacre-Coeur just lately got here underneath new possession by restaurateur Emilie Pelletier, who previously ran a well-liked restaurant within the Beaujolais city of Cercié. For the soirée of Beaujolais Nouveau she’s referred to as on an accordeonist and the wines of Julien Merle, Jean-Claude Lapalu, and Rémi Dufaitre. Regular dinner service might be supplied, however with the addition of oeufs meurettes and sabodet, a wealthy Lyonnais sausage.
Le Vin Au Vert (70 rue de Dunkerque, 75009) Etienne Lucan and Sebastian Obert’s homey cave-à-manger east of Pigalle will host a Beaujolais Nouveau fête, with wines from Jean Foillard, François Subin, and Jean-François Nicq (Roussillon). From 7:00PM – midnight.
Coureurs de Terroirs (14, rue de la Jonquière, 75017) caviste Sébastien Bercot appears to spend virtually as a lot time within the Beaujolais as he does in his 17ème wine store, which pays off in a spiffing choice from the greats of the area. For the discharge of Beaujolais Nouveau he’ll offer tastes of a wide array of wines, together with primeurs from Rémi Dufaitre, Jean-Claude Lapalu, and Sylvère Trichard. From 10:30AM – 8:00PM.
East Paris (Marais-Oberkampf-Belleville-Bastille)
Along with high choose Le Repaire de Cartouche (see above)…
La Buvette (67 rue Saint Maur, 75011) winemakers Marcel and Carine Joubert might be current at Camille Fourmont’s brilliant, thimble-sized rue Saint Maur wine bar. Beaujolais Nouveau from Joubert, Sylvère Trichard, Jean-Claude Lapalu and Rémi Dufaitre. 6:00PM – 1:00AM.
La Cave de l’Insolite (30 rue de la Folie Mericourt, 75011) an accordion group will present the music for a soirée that includes fried fish, ham, and two variations of sauerkraut, meat-based or fish-based. With Beaujolais Nouveau from Christophe Pacalet and Château Cambon. From 7:00PM.
Le Mary-Celeste (1 rue Commines, 75003) might be celebrating with winemakers Jean-Pascal Sarnin & Jean-Marie Berrux pouring their wines for 4€ per glass. Oysters priced at 1€ apiece between 6-8pm and stay music. From 6pm to 1:30am.
Le Lapin Blanc (84 rue de Ménilmontant, 75020) cavernous wine rabbit-hole Le Lapin Blanc will provide Beaujolais Nouveau by Isabelle & Bruno Perraud, Raphael & Christelle Champier, Jean-François Cuzin, and Karim Vionnet, together with a primeur by Burgundy négoçiants Sarnin & Berrux. Loads of snacks might be accessible, starting from hummous to burrata and oeufs mayonnaise. 7:00PM – 12:00AM.
Au Nouveau Nez (104 rue Saint-Maur) Nadine Decailly’s spare wine store turned pop-up restaurant will host chef William Ransone for a vin nouveau dinner on the evening of Beaujolais Nouveau, with Beaujolais Nouveau from Sylvère Trichard and primeurs from Pierre Olivier Bonhomme (Loire), Henri Milan (Provence), and Sarnin & Berrux (Burdundy).
Squatt (112 rue de la Roquette, 75011) this Italian-focused wine store might be celebrating in its personal approach by pouring primeurs from Italy and holding a raffle to win a magnum of pure wine with proceeds to profit victims of the earthquake in Umbria. From 6pm-12:30am.
Dune (20 rue Keller, 75011) for the soirée of Beaujolais Nouveau, this shape-shifting, freeform restaurant by the homeowners of Le Motel Bar will host chef Gareth Eoin Storey (ex Le Bal Café), who will serve small plates of terrines and offal to accompany the Beaujolais Nouveau of Rémi Dufaitre.
Southeast Paris (Aligre-Bercy)
Les Caves de Reuilly (11 boulevard de Reuilly, 75012) Proprietor Pierre Riouallon might be pouring Beaujolais Nouveau by Cyril Alonso, Jean-Claude Lapalu, Remi Dufaitre, and France Gonzalves. The cave-à-manger’s distant location ought to be greater than made up for by its huge, unending terrace. 5€ entry. 5:00PM – 12:00AM.
Le Siffleur de Ballons (34 rue de Citeaux, 75012) Sommelier-restaurateur Thierry Brumeau’s brilliant and informal pure wine bar will suggest a particular sandwich, plus Beaujolais Nouveau from Xavier Benier and Olivier Fallecker, alongside their typical beneficiant cheese and charcuterie plates. 7:00PM – 1:45AM.
Les Pères Populaires (46 rue de Buzenval, 75020) The Pères Populaires group’s eponymous eastside wine bar is proposing a 230L barrel of Georges Descombes’ Beaujolais Nouveau, a pick-up-and-play coverage with the bar’s guitar, and saucisse seche. From 10:00AM-2:00AM.
Le Banlieue (Montreuil – Ermont – Groslay)
L’Amitié Rit (120 Avenue du Président Wilson, Montreuil 93100) Thierry Dubourg’s pure wine bar in Montreuil might be serving potato purée and black pork sausage from Gascony alongside Beaujolais Nouveau from Jean Foillard, Isabelle et Bruno Perraud, France Gonzalvez, Raphael & Christelle Champoer, and primeurs from Thierry Puzelat (Loire), Jean-Christophe Comor (Provence), Henri Milan (Provence), Jean-François Nicq (Roussillon), and others. The occasion can even function the opening of a brand new images present on the bar, by photographer Freddy Cats. From 6pm onwards.
Aux Cepages d’Ermont (5 rue de la République, Ermont 95120) Bruno Besson’s unbiased wine store north of Paris will host Beaujolais rising-star Paul-Henri Thillardon for a free-tasting from 6:30pm – 10:00pm. Besson guarantees “quite a few surprises, like yearly.” Additionally that includes Beaujolais Nouveau by Isabelle & Bruno Perraud and Quentin Harel.
La Cave Duclos (16 rue du Général Leclerc, Groslay 95410) Veteran wine agent René Duclos’ wine store and desk d’hôte within the Paris suburb of Groslay hosts an infinite Beaujolais Nouveau soirée, that includes wines from Jean-Claude Lapalu and Château Cambon. The latter might be served from a barrel of 228L; Duclos expects between 400 and 500 visitors. Blues music by HARDEARLY. From 8pm onwards, with car-hire transport accessible upon request.
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