Philovino’s proprietor, Bruno Quenioux, is a singular determine on the planet of French wine. A radical for his age, he fought all his battles from inside the institutional shops of the French wine institution, first at Caves Legrand, and later in a protracted stint because the influential purchaser for Galeries Lafayette (1990-2008). Anybody accustomed to the nightmarish chaos of Lafayette Gourmand within the current day shall be astonished to study that in Quenioux’s tenure, the wine part was famous for its tacit help of natural agriculture and its resistance to faddish fashionable winemaking strategies, launching the careers of such winemakers as Jean-Paul Brun and Didier Dageneau.
Quenioux introduced these and plenty of different illustrious names to the cabinets of Philovino, the modestly-appointed wine store he opened in 2011 on a nondescript nook of rue Claude Bernard. The store’s IKEA-quality décor belies the standard and rarity of its contents. Quenioux has his eccentricities – a disbelief in carbonic maceration, a disdain for what has come to be known as ‘pure wine,’ and a latent curiosity within the occult sciences – however Philovino stays a vacation spot for anybody wishing to expertise the established classics of Burgundy, Champagne, or the Loire.
Sensible data
Deal with: 33, rue Claude Bernard, 75005
Nearest transport: Censier-Daubenton (7)
Hours: Closed Sunday, closed Monday
Phone: 01 43 37 13 47
Web site
Critiques of curiosity
Le Figaro (2013) “Bruno fut l’un des premiers, si ce n’est le premier, à mettre en avant la qualité des vins que certains qualifieraient aujourd’hui de bio.”
Emmanuel Delmas (2013) “La sélection est à son picture, sincère, pointilleuse, vibrante.”
Libération (2008) : “Tenté par la spiritualité orientale, Quenioux parle de «faire le vide», d’être «dans l’accueil», de se départir de tout jugement et de toute réflexion afin qu’il se passe «quelque selected», et que le vin impose sa singularité.”
Information du Gout “Bruno Quenioux est un inconditionnel du respect des traditions, du produit et de son savoir-faire.”
