The approaching annual launch of Beaujolais Nouveau – not a media firestorm in one of the best of circumstances – could seem, within the wake of final Friday’s Paris terror assaults, about as pertinent as a rubber duck.
In such troubled occasions, who wants wine? Who wants cured ham and cornichons? Who amongst us wants to assemble with pals and family members? Who can carry themselves to buy cheap bottles of glimmery younger gamay and share it liberally with neighbors? Who needs to help Paris’ liveliest tradition-minded bars and bistrots when their enterprise has been threatened?
Effectively, maybe fairly just a few of us. Beaujolais Nouveau, ordinarily an event for barely meaningless enjoyable, can develop into, in 2015, an event for barely extra significant enjoyable.
Café de la Nouvelle Mairie celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau in 2014
Even earlier than terrorists relegated them to marginal information, Beaujolais winemakers had a tricky 2015. An unprecedented heatwave and drought in midsummer raised sugar ranges and induced grapeskins to thicken. The ensuing juice is richer and there may be much less of it. This is a bonus if one’s tastes occur to run to bigger-than-typical Beaujolais Nouveau: the 2015 wines are naturally darker, rounder, and riper than any time in latest reminiscence, with the extra dramatic examples reaching 14.5% alcohol (whereas the minimal permitted alcohol of a Beaujolais Nouveau is a slender 10°).
To place all of it in perspective: some say the final 12 months Beaujolais was this wealthy was 1947. That era had seen its share of darkish days, too.
What follows is an inventory and map of the institutions internet hosting Beaujolais Nouveau events in 2015, together with whose wines they’ll be serving, and which winemakers, if any, are prone to be current for the event.
Wednesday November 18, 2015 (the evening earlier than)
La Gown et le Palais (13 rue des Lavandières Sainte-Opportune, 75001) Proprietor Olivier Schvirtz and sommelier Loic Mougene throw Paris’ final remaining quality-conscious midnight-release get together for Beaujolais Nouveau. Regardless of the weekend’s occasions the bar is set to stay festive, as this 12 months marks the restaurant’s twentieth anniversary. Regular dinner service will likely be adopted by an all-night get together, with – transport permitting – appearances by a lot of the winemakers whose wines will likely be on provide for 14€ / bottle: Xavier Benier, Jean Foillard, Karim Vionnet, Jean-Claude Lapalu, Michel Guignier, Romain Paire, and Stephen Durieu. Mushroom pasta will likely be served at 3AM. 11:00PM-5:00AM.
The annual “evening earlier than” get together at La Gown et Le Palais on November 18, 2015. “Throw a stone and also you’d hit one the pirates of the wine group.” Picture and quote by Michaël Dandrieux
Thursday November 19, 2015
PARIS BY MOUTH PICKS
Café de la Nouvelle Mairie (19 rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, 75005) Benjamin Courty and Corentin Cucillat are the most recent house owners of this historic pure wine bar within the 5ème, which has modified fingers over the course of its 20 years in enterprise, however has at all times remained a vacation spot for magnificent wine and easy bistrot delicacies. Saucisse au couteau and a daube de boeuf will accompany the gypsy jazz of Paname Swing and numerous sought-after primeurs. Beaujo Nouveau by Man Breton, Jean-Claude Lapalu, Karim Vionnet, plus vin primeur by Nicolas Carmarans. 7:30PM – 1:45AM. Reservations really helpful.
Celebrating Beaujolais Nouveau in 2013 at Cafeé de la Nouvelle Mairie
Ma Cave de Fleury (77 deadlock Saint-Denis, 75002) Morgane Fleury, the fairy godmother of pure Champagne, hosts a rollocking Beaujolais Nouveau get together with wines from France Gonzalvez, Silvère Trichard, & Remi Dufaitre, together with vin primeur from Jo Landron and Marcel Richaud. 7:00PM – round midnight.
Morgane Fleury pours Beaujolais Nouveau at Ma Cave Fleury in 2013
La Quincave (17 rue Bréa, 75006) Frédéric Belcamp’s shelf-sized Montparnasse wine bar inaugurates three nights of “Bubbles & Beaujolais.” Come early for a variety of pétillant naturels and Beaujolais Nouveau from Man Breton, Karim Vionnet, Jean Foillard, Karim Vionnet, Rémi Dufaitre, Stephen Durieu, and France Goncalves – however keep for the group, which reliably consists of a who’s-who of the pure Beaujolais vanguard. From 7:00PM.
Celebrating at Le Quincave in 2013
Le Repaire de Cartouche (8 boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, 75011) Legendary terrine maestro Rodolphe Paquin celebrates Beaujo Nouveau with gusto. (Final 12 months’s soirée noticed him gamely swap t-shirts with a buxom reveler behind the bar.) Beaujolais Nouveau from Karim Vionnet & Xavier Benier, together with vin primeur from Thierry Puzelat and “a shock wine.” Music: A reside accordian-guitar-chanteuse combo. Bottles will likely be priced at 30€ – however they arrive with free small plates all night. For these wishing to get began celebrating at lunchtime, Paquin will suggest a particular Beaujolais Nouveau menu consisting of oysters, coq qu vin, and a tarte aux pommes. Lunch: 12:00PM – 2:30PM. Social gathering: 7:30PM – 1:45AM.
Winemaker Réné-Jean Dard (proper) at Repaire de la Cartouche in 2013
Le Rubis (14, rue Léopold Bellan, 75002) Marie Carmarans and Geraldine Sarfati, co-owners of pure wine bistrot Le Rubis, will likely be serving Beaujolais Nouveau by Remi Dufaitre, Man Breton, and Karim Vionnet, in addition to a primeur from Marie’s ex-husband, Nicolas Carmarans. The Carmarans’ previously ran left-bank pure wine establishment La Café de la Nouvelle Mairie, and Marie maintains the trustworthy help of many pioneering pure winemakers, so anticipate a whole lot of winemaker drop-ins. Music by Le Rubis Swing Quartet. 6:00PM – 1:45AM.
Different Notable Beaujolais Nouveau Occasions
Left Financial institution
Along with high picks Café de la Nouvelle Mairie and La Quincave (see above)…
Au Sauvignon (80 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007) This well-preserved, Third-generation Auvergnat café boasts an accordion and keyboard duo and a particular sizzling meal for the event: Auvergnat sausage and potatoes, obtainable by reservation solely. Morgon winemaker Karim Vionnet will likely be current early on, serving his Beaujolais nouveau and that of Jean-Claude Lapalu. From 7:00PM.
La Cave des Papilles (35 rue Daguerre, 75014) Gerard Katz’s venerable pure wine store affords a tasting of vin primeurs that run the gamut of the viticultural areas of France. Beaujolais Nouveaux from Jean-Claude Lapalu, Karim Vionnet, and Sylvère Trichard, plus different vins primeurs from Jo Landron (Loire), Marc Houtin and Julien Bresteau (Loire), Jean-Christophe Comor (Provence), Marchel Richaud (Rhône), & Jean-François Nicq (Rousillon). 6:00PM – 9:30PM.
Central Proper Financial institution (Les Halles-Palais Royal)
Along with high picks Ma Cave de Fleury & Le Rubis (see above)…
Le Garde Gown
Le Garde Gown (41 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001) Winemaker Sylvère Trichard will likely be current, together with copious bowls of onion soup at this common pure wine bar by the Louvre. They’ll even be pouring Beaujolais Nouveau by France Rémi Dufaitre and Stephan Durieux and serving a spherical of ratafia (assume French amaro, solely sweeter) at midnight. Music, in line with administration, will rely on how rammed it will get contained in the bar. 7:00PM – 2:00AM.
The Beaujolais Nouveau from Sylvère Trichard will likely be served by the magnum at Coinstot Vino (picture through their FB web page)
Coinstot Vino (26 passage des Panoramas, 75002) Guillaume Dupré’s evocative terraced bar within the Passage des Panoramas will roll out magnums from seven winemakers, together with Olivier Fallecker, France Gonzalvez, Sylvère Trichard, Raphaël et Christelle Champier, Stephen Durieu, Karim Vionnet, and Sarnin-Berrux from the area. From 6pm onward.
Juveniles (47 rue de Richelieu, 75001) Tim Johnston’s homey wine bistrot – now run by his daughter and son-in-law – will provide a Beaujolais-themed menu service for the night. Reservations are a should. However the restaurant invitations one and all for apéros till 8PM, that includes Johnston’s personal cuvée of Beaujolais Nouveau by Pierre-Marie Chermette.
Tasting Beaujolais Nouveau at Le Rubis
Le Rubis (10 rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, 75001) Comically gruff proprietor Albert Prat is among the many final Parisian restaurateurs to buy all his Beaujolais by the barrel. He hasn’t but confirmed who will supply his nouveau for this 12 months. However if you happen to get sick of the contemporary, fruity stuff, his unlabeled bottles of Côte de Brouilly nonetheless comprise wine from appellation standard-bearers Chateau Thivin. The bathroom could also be Turkish and the service could also be on the sunny aspect of ferocious, however Beaujolais Nouveau at Le Rubis’ zinc bar stays an interesting glimpse right into a world earlier than Beaujolais grew to become a nasty phrase.
North Paris (Montmartre-Pigalle-Gare du Nord)
Bistrot Papillon (6 rue Papillon, 75009) Restaurateurs Vincent Gordien and Laurent Bigot’s fledgling market menu restaurant will host a ebook signing by Léon Mazella, writer of “Le Dictionnaire Stylish du Vin,” accompanied by glasses of Karim Vionnet’s Beaujolais Nouveau and an acoustic duo. 6:00PM – 8:30PM.
L’Entrée des Artistes (30 rue Victor Masse, 75009) For his or her Beaujolais Nouveau events at their earlier location within the 11ème arrondissement, house owners Edouard Vermynk and Fabien Lombardi reliably drew a bevy of main pure Beaujolais producers to their counter for gin & tonics after-hours. This 12 months they’ll switch the custom to their new, plusher digs in Pigalle. The choice of primeurs remains to be TBD, however the music is confirmed: a vinyl-only jazz and French disco DJ set. 7:00PM – 2:00AM.
La Pointe du Grouin (8 rue de Belzunce, 75010) Thierry Breton’s expansive, anarchic, service-free wine bar will host a live performance, a buffet of his frank nation delicacies, and full barrel of Château Cambon Beaujolais Nouveau. From 8:00PM.
East Paris (Marais-Oberkampf-Belleville-Bastille)
Along with high decide Le Repaire de Cartouche (see above)…
La Buvette (67 rue Saint Maur, 75011) Winemakers Marcel Joubert and Sylvère Trichard will move via at Camille Fourmont’s shiny, thimble-sized rue Saint Maur wine bar. Beaujolais Nouveau from Joubert, Trichard, Jean-Claude Lapalu and Rémi Dufaitre. 6:00PM – 1:00AM.
Le Lapin Blanc (84, rue de Ménilmontant, 75020) Cavernous wine rabbit-hole Le Lapin Blanc will provide Beaujolais Nouveau by Stephen Durieux, Raphael Champier, and Karim Vionnet, together with a Muscadet primeur by Jérémie Mourat. Loads of snacks will likely be obtainable, starting from hummous to burrata and oeufs mayonnaise. The music will likely be a specifically curated playlist by former Nova journalist Seb the Participant. This 12 months’s occasion additionally marks the beginning of a three-day get together to rejoice the bar’s three years in enterprise. 7:00PM – 12:00AM.
Au Nouveau Nez (104 rue Saint-Maur) will likely be serving bottles from Cyril-Florian, Sylvère Trichard, Xavier Benier and the sauvignon from PO Bonhomme from midday to midnight.
Dune (20 rue Keller, 75011) will likely be serving bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau from biodynamic producer Thierry Harel, with small plates and finger meals by American chef (ex-Bones) Evan Leichtling. From 7pm onward.
Southeast Paris (Aligre-Bercy)
Les Caves de Reuilly (11, boulevard de Reuilly, 75012) Proprietor Pierre Riouallon will likely be pouring Beaujolais Nouveau by Karim Vionnet, Jean-Claude Lapalu, Remi Dufaitre, and France Gonzalves. The cave-à-manger’s distant location needs to be greater than made up for by its huge, unending terrace. 5€ entry. 5:00PM – 12:00AM.
Le Siffleur de Ballons (34 rue de Citeaux, 75012) Sommelier-restaurateur Thierry Brumeau’s neighborhood pure wine bar will suggest a particular t-shirt design, plus Beaujolais Nouveau from Xavier Benier. The bar can also be utilizing the occassion its fifth birthday, so the environment needs to be actually festive. 6:30PM – 1:45AM.
Les Pères Populaires (46, rue de Buzenval, 75020) The Pères Populaires group’s eponymous eastside wine bar is proposing a barrel of Georges Descombes’ Beaujolais Nouveau, a pick-up-and-play coverage with the bar’s guitar, and saucisse seche. From 7:00PM.
L’Amitié Rit (120 Avenue du Président Wilson in Montreuil) Thierry Dubourg’s pure wine bar in Montreuil will likely be serving saucisse de Morteau and lentils together with primeurs from Thierry Puzelat, Jean-Claude Lapalu, Isabelle et Bruno Perraud, France Gonzalvez, Henri Milan, Jean-François Nicqn and others. From 6pm onwards.
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