Annecy is the capital of Haute-Savoie, a division within the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes area of south-eastern France, bordering each Switzerland and Italy. To the north is Lake Geneva; to the south and southeast are Mont Blanc and the Aravis mountain vary. Referred to as the “Venice of the Alps,” due to its community of canals, it sits on the head of Lake Annecy whose crystal-clear turquoise waters are surrounded by lush greenery and snow-capped peaks. Mountaineering within the Annecy mountains is reinvigorating says Rupert Parker…
Nights within the Annecy Mountains
The city’s proximity to the Alpine panorama makes it the perfect gateway for exploring the community of trails main upwards in direction of the skies. True mountain lovers by no means keep within the valleys however climb the slopes and spend the night time in one of many many refuges, usually perched precariously on distant ridges.
These all provide typical mountain meals of the area and pretty fundamental amenities, however you might be rewarded with spectacular sunsets and sunrises. For my first night time, I’m going to be staying on the Pointe Percée – Gramusset Refuge. It takes round an hour to drive as much as the Col des Annes, the beginning of the path as much as the refuge.
Once I arrive the mist is down and the rain has set in, so there’s no choice however to don waterproofs, put my head down and begin climbing. It’s pretty steep however then ranges out, and sadly visibility is zero. It due to this fact comes as a pleasing shock, after a few hours, to instantly discover myself climbing the steps to the refuge.
In actual fact there are two buildings right here, the older one the unique and now performing as extra of a shelter. The opposite was constructed lately and all of the amenities are utterly new. The dormitories upstairs are pretty spacious with bunk beds and there’s a bar with draught beer. I arrive simply because the meals is being served and many of the different friends are climbers.
After discarding my moist garments, there’s a welcome spinach soup to heat me up, with chunks of do-it-yourself bread. After that comes a big tray of Tartiflette – potatoes, native Reblochon cheese, smoked bacon and cream, all baked within the oven. It’s good hearty mountain meals and as I eat, my fellow diners are discussing the climbing choices for tomorrow.
Aravis Mountain vary
Subsequent morning the mist begins to raise, revealing the cathedral-like summit of Pointe Percée at 2752m, the best level of the Aravis mountain vary. There are additionally superb views of the Pic du Jalouvre and the Bargy vary. Already the opposite friends are setting off for his or her ascent, attired in full climbing gear, however I’m on my approach again down. I can quickly see my vacation spot of La Clusaz mendacity within the valley down beneath and after a few hours I’m there.
After my night time on the mountain, I’m going to be staying in a resort this night. There’s an genuine Alpine ambiance right here, the streets lined with conventional chalets, bars and eating places and out of doors retailers. Gondolas whisk you up excessive above the city, nice for sampling mountain fare at one of many eating places.
Balade au Clair de Lune
I’ve timed my go to so I can attend an annual occasion, the Balade au Clair de Lune, a stroll. by the sunshine of the moon. All people is inspired to show off their lights and use candles as an alternative. And it’s not simply contained in the bars and restaurant, the streets are additionally lit in the identical approach. There are processions of drummers and dancers by way of the city and dwell bands play for dancing. Though it’s barely damp, everybody enters into the spirit, and the place is full of households having fun with this distinctive interlude.
Fabulous Faverges
Subsequent day, for one more mountain expertise, I journey west to Faverges, simply on the foot of Lake Annecy, and make my approach up the valley of Saint-Ruph. From right here it’s a steep climb up by way of forest to the Chalet de la Servaz at 1434m. On my approach I spot wild strawberries within the grass so assist myself to a fast woodland snack. I’m within the bushes for many of the hike, however after I emerge on the ridge and spy the refuge, I’m rewarded with incredible views over Lake Annecy.
Chalet de la Servaz is a reasonably fundamental institution with the dormitory one massive area on the higher ground, filled with mattresses. Christophe, the guardian, makes up for the shortage of consolation together with his enthusiasm and wonderful cooking. There’s simply me and three French girls and all of us dine collectively.
The memorable meal contains Diots, native 100% pork sausages, cooked in white wine and Crozets, little squares of pasta, in a cheese gratin. After a collection of native cheese, there’s an exquisite dessert of contemporary fruit to complete. Then we’re in for an enormous shock – exterior there’s a sizzling tube which Christophe has been warming all night. All people jumps in for communal soak, with the twinkling lights of Annecy beneath.
Annecy
Subsequent morning I make my approach again down and head to Lake Annecy for an exquisite lunch at La Cuillère à Omble. In fact they serve contemporary fish from the lake and, in addition to Trout Rillettes, I get a complete Omble, Arctic Char, to myself. Then it’s a brief drive to Annecy itself and I’m staying within the outdated city (learn our information to Annecy). Despite the fact that it’s simply the beginning of summer season, the crowds are out in power.
Nonetheless that doesn’t detract from its charms. The slender cobblestone streets, with their pastel-coloured buildings and flower-decked balconies, are lined with designer boutiques, eating places, cafes, and bakeries. Water is in every single place, with hump backed bridges crossing the winding canals. It’s market day and stalls promoting contemporary fruit and greens show their wares.
I can’t resist taking a dip within the lake so observe the lakeside promenade, previous the boats providing cruises and the crusing and rowing golf equipment to Plage des Marquisats. This successfully acts because the city seashore, with a grassy foreshore stuffed with sunbathers. In entrance of me is the extensive expanse of the lake with the Alpine peaks rearing up behind.
As I leap into the water, within the distance I can nearly make out the refuge the place I spent the night time. In fact I’m staying in a pleasing resort in Annecy, however deep down inside, I can’t assist hankering for the peace and quiet of the mountains. Not forgetting the filling healthful meals and that great sizzling tub.
Helpful info
Annecy Mountains web site has details about the area.
Pointe Percée – Gramusset Refuge has 49 dormitory beds.
La Ferme is a cushty resort with good native mountain specialities in La Clusaz.
Refuge de la Servaz has 19 dormitory beds.
Lodge Auberge du Lyonnais in Annecy is true within the outdated city and has a superb restaurant.
Rupert Parker is a author, photographer, cameraman & TV Producer. His particular pursuits are meals & journey & he writes about every little thing from wilderness journey to gourmand spa excursions. Examine his newest adventures on his web site Planet Urge for food.