Janine Marsh undertakes a gastronomic odyssey from the north to the south following the route of the Vallée de la Gastronomie. Travelling the 620km route which follows a 1000-year-old commerce route by way of France, straddling a number of departments, and stopping off at historic cities, enchanting villages, verdant vineyards, and historic cities, there was a lot to see, do, eat and drink, I’ve cut up the story of my mouth-watering meander from Burgundy to the Mediterranean Sea into two equally scrumptious elements!
You’ll be able to learn in regards to the southern part of my journey right here together with Aix-en-Provence, Cassis and Marseille. Within the north, this epic-urean route begins in Dijon, capital of Burgundy, and you’ll be arduous pushed to discover a extra scrumptious metropolis. You’ll be able to learn extra about Dijon and its gastronomic excellence right here.
I did the entire journey by rail, stopping off alongside the route of the Vallee de la Gastronomie, visiting enchanting cities, vineyards, farms, eating on the most superb eating places, wine tasting and assembly artisans, wine makers and cooks with large ardour for producing the best meals and wine you’ll ever expertise. That is only a taster of the tons of of experiences accessible, all in English (and French), and all welcoming guests. Discover out extra on the web site: valleedelagastronomie
Chalon-sur-Saône – wine nation…
Round 40km south of Dijon brings you to the city of Chalon-sur-Saône – on the doorstep of the good vineyards of Mercurey, which takes its title from a temple constructed right here by the Romans in tribute to the God Mercury. Mercurey’s wines charters return nearly 1500 years, to 557 AD, and this space is taken into account the “wine capital” of Burgundy, and one among its foremost appellations. However sufficient superlatives – what’s the wine like? Effectively head to the 17th century Château de Chamirey, within the coronary heart of the Mercurey vineyards for a scrumptious tasting and to seek out out extra in regards to the vines.
I met with the chateau’s proprietor Amaury Devillard who defined that of the 37 hectares underneath the Chateau de Chamirey label, 15 of them are premier Cru, reflecting the various soils and microclimates throughout the Mercurey appellation. Sipping an outstanding fruity pink and a contemporary peachy white as we appeared out over the countryside at a mosaic of vineyards with eagles flying overhead and wild birds singing joyfully, introduced a type of memorable moments of pure happiness. We may see Mont Blanc within the distance (an indication of unhealthy climate apparently).
“It’s within the blood. We make wine, we drink it, we discuss it on a regular basis” says this passionate wine marker. “An excellent bottle of wine is an empty bottle.”
Depart the vineyards to take a wander in Chalon-sur-Saône the place Joseph Nicéphore-Niépce was born and the place a museum is devoted to him. You won’t know his title, however his legacy has left a huge effect. Born in 1765, he is called the “father of images” and was the primary to create a everlasting photographic picture. And the gorgeous 11th century cloisters of the Cathedral are a beautiful place to chill out and benefit from the artworks. The cloisters been by way of a number of transformations, homes have been as soon as constructed within the centre, and at one time a vinegar manufacturing facility was arrange within the buildings. Head to the buzzing bar and café-lined Place St Vincent, named after the Patron Saint of Wine, to take pleasure in a neighborhood tipple. Learn extra in regards to the city right here: achalon.com/en
The place to remain: Le Saint Georges lodge is cosy, cozy and conveniently for rail travellers, subsequent to the practice station.
Tournus – a hidden gem
30km on, one other must-visit, is the beautiful city of Tournus, alongside the banks of the Saone River, although it’s simply 35km from the good abbey of Cluny. Should you dream of stumbling on somewhat place with fabulous meals, great wines and a heat welcome, then Tournus is it.
Burgundy is presumably the abdomen of France and in Tournus, good eating places abound, however three stand out for his or her actually very good dishes. Head somewhat out of city to Le Relais d’Ozenay of chef Florian Giraud. It’s a superbly embellished restaurant in an excellent a part of the countryside. Chef Giraud is aware of all his suppliers by title, locals who’ve a ardour for his or her produce. He’s typical of the tons of and tons of of artisans whose eating places, farms, wine and beer chocolate and extra, make up your guides and introducers to style sensations alongside the route of the Vallée de la Gastronomie.
Within the centre of city there are two Michelin starred eating places: Greuze headed up by chef Yohann Chapuis, and the magnificent Aux Terrasses run by chef Jean-Michel Carrette. And get acquainted with the terrific native wines on the cave des Vignerons de Mancey. Tournus deserves rather more consideration, learn in regards to the unbelievable historic hospital, the cooks and charms of this historic city: Secret France – Tournus
The place to remain: You’re spoiled for selection for fabulous accommodations right here – I stayed on the attractive Resort les 7 Fontaines which has a spa and fabulous wine tasting cellar.
Mâcon – memorable for meals and wine
Mâcon is a wine city and the gateway to the vineyards of southern Burgundy. The city pays tribute to the historical past of the native wine manufacturing with the opening this yr of the Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne wine museum and tasting venue on the banks of the River Saône. After an immersive, sensory path wherein you’ll uncover all in regards to the viticulture of Burgundy, head to the fabulous tasting bar. See the web site for particulars plus guided excursions, occasions and workshops.
Who can resist an opportunity to study to prepare dinner Burgundian type? Definitely not me, so I headed to the Maison des Ateliers to take a half day class in a beautiful mansion home which can be the place Fabrice Sommier, one among France’s most well-known sommeliers and a Maitre Ouvrier de France, hosts wine courses.
I discovered how one can prepare dinner a traditional volaille à la crème (rooster in cream sauce). I used to be frankly astonished at how good my cooking is (okay – I did have assist and affected person steerage from chef Salome). I picked up heaps of neat suggestions and tips, and took dwelling a long-lasting memento – the flexibility to provide a dish like a prime chef.
In Mâcon, you could go to a patisserie or boulangerie and have a nibble on a Gaufrette Mâconnaise. Made in Mâcon because the center ages these scrumptious cigar-shaped biscuits have been deserted for many years till they have been resurrected by Monsieur Claude Poissonnet, Grand Grasp of the Brotherhood of the Gaufrette Mâconnaise.
Dine at: La DaMa go for the nice and cozy and real welcome and the wonderful meals (a fusion of Italian and French) and nice wines.
Keep at: L’hôtel Panorama Head to the rooftop bar for aperitifs and fabulous views.
Village Blanc – a complete foodie village in Vonnas
Crossing into Rhone Alpes, and the Ain division, I finished off at Village Blanc, the idea of legendary chef Georges Blanc. It contains two eating places, a lodge and vacation residence, foodie outlets together with a wine retailer, butchers, tableware retailer, boulangerie, chocolaterie, and patisserie with a number of the most superb truffles I’ve ever tasted (and I take my cake tasting duties significantly!). There may be additionally his internationally well-known L’Esprit Blanc restaurant which has one of many biggest restaurant wine cellars on the earth, in addition to the charming and delicious Ancienne Auberge. Should you love meals – then Village Blanc in Vonnas is an absolute should – a singular and totally delicious a part of France.
Learn extra in regards to the Chef who created a connoisseur village
Beaujolais is in no way nouveau
30km south of Vonnas, my subsequent cease was Beaujolais. This pretty, actually pretty, a part of France has a timeless magnificence and relaxed vibe, and deserves an entire article to itself which you’ll learn within the The Good Life France Journal (Spring 2024 – subscribe right here totally free).
Beaujolais Nouveau is thought world wide, however for those who assume that’s all this wine area has to supply – then you definately’ll have to un-think that as a result of I promise you the wines aren’t simply of the nouveau type, they’re beautiful, wealthy ruby reds, and crisp whites, an effervescent crémant that places sparkles in your eyes and for those who like wine – you’ll love Beaujolais wines. And this area is dwelling to what I’m certain should be the most effective wine museum on the earth which additionally has a shocking tasting bar – the Hameau Duboeuf.
And simply down the highway from right here you possibly can style the wines of Maison Jean Loron, one of many oldest and largest wine-growing house owners in southern Burgundy. Critically a number of the finest wines I’ve ever tasted, I managed to lug a number of bottles dwelling in my baggage which nearly broke me, nevertheless it was value it!
Comply with the route des Crêtes in Beaujolais and the gorgeous wine route des vins du Beaujolais by way of tiny villages like Oingt, a plus beaux village de France, and exquisite Theizé within the coronary heart of the “Pierres Dorées” which refers back to the golden stone that many buildings are comprised of, and which provides the villages a particular glow. And don’t miss a go to to the historic city of Villefranche-sur-Saône the place you possibly can take an audio information of the hidden treasures…
Dine at: La Feuillée a typical Beaujolais bistrot the place the locals collect for the tastiest of grub, a glass of wine and a great dollop of bonhomie.
Keep at: Les Maritonnes Parc & Vignoble, Romaneche-Thorins, a Georges Blanc owned lodge with a superb restaurant.
The Vallee de la Gastronomie
Uncover inspirational connoisseur experiences, guided excursions and extra at: valleedelagastronomie
