In a sparse kitchen, a robotic arm swings round and grabs a platter of pre-fried soy “rooster” off a rack the place it’s resting. In a single clear movement, it drops the imitation meat onto a conveyor belt, which takes it by way of an impingement oven and re-crisps the cutlet. A number of ft away, a brioche bun will get toasted for a exact 30 seconds. Protein and bun are launched onto a conveyor belt and arrive collectively in entrance of a (human) worker, who begins assembling the entire fried “rooster” sandwich.
And with that, your meal is prepared. You’ve simply met the kitchen staff at Kernel, Chipotle founder Steve Ells’ newest try to alter quick meals.
The plant-based restaurant opened its first location a number of blocks from Manhattan’s Madison Sq. Park on February twelfth, with plans to increase all through New York Metropolis utilizing a $36 million funding from non-public funding companies and tech corporations. The takeout-only spot is betting large on the concept that diners aren’t that serious about human connection throughout their lunch break—and that they wish to eat much less meat. The menu hovers between conventional quick meals (burgers, fried potatoes) and the vegetable-focused bowl-lunches of opponents like Sweetgreen or Dig (salads, composed vegetable dishes).
A lot of the hoopla surrounding Kernel has been targeted on its funding in robotics. After I visited the restaurant simply earlier than opening day, solely three people have been working alongside the machines—Ells instructed me that as expertise advances, the kitchen staff might develop into totally robotic, with workers serving to clients and troubleshooting as wanted. For now, people put together the meals at a location off-site; and at Kernel, robots and conveyor belts deliver ready elements to employees who assemble them. These employees place the gadgets in particular person cubbies, much like an automat. When your meals is prepared, your cellphone buzzes with a textual content that reveals which locker is holding your bagged meals.
Choosing up meals from a cubby is nothing new, neither is cooking with robots, however previous makes an attempt at automating eating places and eradicating human interplay have had combined success. So are robots the way forward for fast-casual? Does Ells have one other Chipotle-like hit on his palms? The actual check, as with every restaurant, is whether or not the meals is any good. The decision on my latest go to: Kernel is legitimately tasty—sufficient for me to flirt with the concept of going again twice in a single week.
The spotlight is Kernel’s veggie burger, a mix of candy potato, quinoa, chickpeas, kale, mushrooms, and oats, amongst different grains, legumes, and greens. Every chunk is seasoned with garlic, chili, onion, and an umami-blast of marmite. This isn’t an Unattainable-style burger attempting to imitate beef—it’s a proud veggie burger, with the slight and satisfying mush of a stand-out model. It’s not crumbly like many different veggie burgers. An avocado-based salsa verde provides a zippy kick, whereas pink pickled onions present some crunch. That’s all sandwiched right into a pillowy-soft brioche bun. It’s not simply good for a veggie burger, it’s an excellent burger, interval.
