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From Royal Abbey to Navy Hospital to Museum ⋆ Secrets and techniques of Paris


The 17th-century royal abbey of Val-de-Grâce, positioned close to the Panthéon within the 5th arrondissement, grew to become a famend army hospital and medical faculty after the French Revolution. The hospital has just lately closed and is being reworked right into a analysis and innovation campus devoted to digital expertise for well being, with plans to open its huge grounds as a public park in 2026. Whereas not often talked about in journey guides, the fascinating Val-de-Grâce Museum and the abbey’s Baroque church – although broken through the December 2023 explosion on the Rue St-Jacques — stay open to the general public. Extremely beneficial for individuals who wish to discover a stupendous historic monument sans crowds and queues.  

The Creation of the Val-de-Grâce Abbey

The inception of Val de Grâce dates again to 1621 when Queen Anne of Austria, the devoutly Catholic spouse of King Louis XIII, arrange a Benedictine convent within the Faubourg St-Jacques district, alongside the well-known pilgrimage route, Saint Jacques de Compostelle (aka El Camino or Method of St-. James). Married for 23 years with out an inheritor, she vowed to construct an impressive church if God gave her a son.

After the start of Louis XIV in 1638, she requested the royal architect François Mansart to construct the Val-de-Grâce Royal Abbey and Church. The primary stone was laid in 1645, and when the Baroque church with its grand dome and elaborate sculptures was accomplished in 1667, it was thought of an emblem of royal piety and architectural brilliance.

Mansart’s magnificent dome homes a fresco of celestial scenes by Pierre Mignard, “The Glory of the Blessed”. Equally beautiful is the baldachin designed by Gabriel Le Duc, an ornate construction over the excessive altar paying homage to the one in Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The historic Cavaillé-Coll organ, initially from the Panthéon, was put in within the church in 1891, and nonetheless used at the moment for classical concert events in addition to liturgical providers, regardless of struggling harm within the June 2023 explosion (see beneath).

The Abbey’s Transition to a Navy Hospital

Like many spiritual establishments, Val-de-Grâce was seized and secularized through the French Revolution. Whereas the church was spared, the abbey was reworked right into a army hospital in 1793, its substantial buildings and central location very best for treating troopers wounded through the decade of conflicts referred to as the French Revolutionary Wars (1792-1802). Click on on images for captions.

The hospital shortly grew to become identified for its excessive requirements of care and progressive medical practices (and when you learn my final members’ article concerning the sorry state of the Hôtel-Dieu Hospital on the Ile de la Cité within the 18th century, you understand this wasn’t all the time a given in French hospitals on the time). With the addition of a army medical faculty in 1850, the status and significance of Val-de-Grâce solely continued to develop as their providers supported the armed forces in wars all through the 19th and 20th centuries.

Val-de-Grâce produced a few of historical past’s biggest army docs, surgeons, and medical researchers. For instance, the Military’s Chief Surgeon Dominique-Jean Larrey is taken into account the daddy of emergency medication, along with his pioneering use of cellular surgical ambulances on the battlefield throughout Napoléon I’s campaigns. And it was one of many epidemiology physicians at Val-de-Grâce, Dr. Hyacinthe Vincent, who developed the vaccine in opposition to typhoid fever in 1910 which proved essential in defending the French, British, and US troops from extreme outbreaks throughout World Conflict I.

The Trendy Period: Val-de-Grâce Continues Its Evolution

Val-de-Grâce developed into one among France’s most prestigious army hospitals, identified formally as L’Hôpital d’Instruction des Armées du Val-de-Grâce. Within the Seventies a brand new, state-of-the-art hospital and medical faculty adjoining to the historic website, constructed to accommodate superior medical applied sciences and supply complete care to army personnel and their households. It was additionally the place high-profile people, corresponding to France’s presidents, have been handled below strict confidentiality.

The modern hospital behind the 17th century buildings.
The fashionable hospital behind the seventeenth century buildings of Val-de-Grâce.

The hospital operated till 2016, when it was closed as a part of a broader restructuring of army medical providers (the army faculty and administrative places of work are nonetheless there). Very similar to the Hôtel-Dieu, the Val de Grâce website is being reworked into the “PariSanté Campus”, a cutting-edge hub for digital well being and medical innovation. Scheduled to be accomplished in 2028, this new facility will host numerous analysis and innovation establishments.

Val-de-Grâce Gardens Will Open to the Public

With this transformation comes a bit of bonus for everybody: the huge hospital grounds, which for now can solely be glimpsed via the fence alongside the Boulevard Port-Royal (and within the mannequin above), will likely be redeveloped and opened as a public park in 2026. This contains the addition of 112 new timber and restoration of the historic pathways. Watch this house…

The Val-de-Grâce Navy Drugs Museum

The Musée du Service de Santé des Armées (SSA), first opened in 1916, is a singular and interesting exploration of army medication housed within the historic buildings of the previous cloisters of the royal abbey. Whereas Paris is house to a number of notable medical historical past museums, this one stands out for its particular give attention to army medication. It’s additionally an awesome follow-up after you’ve visited the Military Museum at Les Invalides.

The museum’s assortment spans a number of centuries, taking you from Louis XIV’s naval battles to Napoléon’s Egypt campaigns to medical provides carried by troopers in WWII. Some highlights of the everlasting assortment embody:

  • Historic Medical Devices: Okay, these generally is a bit creepy at instances, but additionally fascinating to see how they’ve developed over the previous 4 centuries.
  • Subject Surgical procedure and Cell Hospitals: Displays element the evolution of battlefield medication, from the early use of rudimentary instruments to the event of refined cellular medical items. The shows embody fashions and reconstructions of subject hospitals, highlighting the developments made in treating wounded troopers on the entrance traces.
  • Medical Uniforms and Tools: Like all good army museum, you’ll see loads of uniforms, kits, and private tools utilized by army medical personnel. This stuff provide a glimpse into the every day lives and challenges confronted by army medics.
  • Medical Analysis and Improvements: Scientific breakthroughs and medical improvements that emerged from army analysis, together with a hyperbaric chamber and a Véronique rocket head. Displays embody pioneering work in fields corresponding to infectious ailments, vaccination, and surgical strategies.
  • Navy Pharmacists: Their participation in main expeditions all over the world within the nineteenth century and their work on poisonous battle gases
  • Civilian Care: how the army hospital helped take care of civilian populations humanitarian actions, the creation of medical colleges and Pasteur institutes, the struggle in opposition to main endemics and infectious ailments (typhoid, plague, malaria) and progress in hygiene.
  • Artwork and Drugs: The museum additionally explores the intersection of artwork and medication, with a group of medical illustrations, anatomical drawings, work depicting medical scenes, and the well-known “Damaged Faces” wax casts of mutilated troopers exhibiting the event of reconstructive maxillofacial surgical procedure through the First World Conflict.
  • Assortment of Docs Jacques and François Debat: An distinctive assortment put in within the previous Benedictine kitchens of Italian and French earthenware pharmacy jars, medical devices, and 100 and three mortars, the oldest of which date again to historical Egypt.

Visiting the Museum

Musée du Service de Santé des Armées
1 Place Alphonse Laveran (at 279 Rue Saint-Jacques), fifth

Opening Hours: open every day besides Monday and Friday from noon-6pm. Closed in August, January 1st, Could 1st, and December 25th.

Getting Inside: Buzz the bell on the gate on the correct to be let in; stroll straight forward to the doorway that claims “Musée” the place you’ll be requested on your picture ID and given a badge to put on; then the museum entrance and ticket desk is to your proper (don’t fear, the army guards will let you know when you’ve gone the fallacious means! 😉 )

Admission €5 (€2.50 for college kids, and youngsters 6-18 years previous). Free entry on July 14th.

Accessibility: The museum is accessible to guests with disabilities, nevertheless the church isn’t.

Language: Sadly, there aren’t any English translations or audio guides, so that you’ll have to add your favourite smartphone auto-translator (Google Lens is nice for this, you simply hover over the phrases along with your digital camera and it interprets the phrases utilizing the identical font).

Newest Information: The Fb web page is up to date extra usually than their official web site: https://www.fb.com/museessa.valdegrace

Visiting the Church

L’Eglise Notre-Dame de la Nativité du Val-de-Grâce, additionally simply referred to as the Chapelle du Val-de-Grâce, celebrates Catholic lots each Sunday at 11am. You’ll be able to see the church outdoors service hours as a part of your museum go to, or through the free organ concert events each first Sunday of the month, October via June, at 5:30pm.

The subsequent live performance — the final for the season — is on June 2nd to commemorate the 80th anniversary of the Liberation of Paris, that includes organist Hervé Désarbre, saxophonist Antonin Cros, conductor Captain Frédéric Foulquier, and the musicians of the Republican Guard enjoying works by Bach, Berlioz, Copland, Marly, Ganne, Touche, Glenn Miller, Milhaud, and so forth. Doorways open at 5pm.  

Harm from the Rue St-Jacques Explosion

On June 21, 2023, there was an explosion subsequent to Val-de-Grâce at 277 Rue Saint-Jacques, which fully demolished the Paris American Academy, killing three individuals. The explosion additionally broken Val-de-Grâce Church, blowing out 15 stained glass home windows, and affecting the historic Cavaillé-Coll organ and the monumental baldachin, each categorised as historic monuments. The primary two photographs from Google Maps present the constructing earlier than the explosion. The third picture exhibits the ruins of 277 Rue St-Jacques, and the final picture is a clos-up of one of many non permanent home windows changing the church’s stained glass.

Whereas the church was solely briefly closed (and actually, it nonetheless appears higher than many uncared for church buildings in Paris), fundraising efforts are underway to lift the roughly a million euros that will likely be wanted to completely restore the church.  In case you’re feeling impressed to donate (tax deductible when you’re a French resident), try the Fondation du Patrimoine web site: https://www.fondation-patrimoine.org/les-projets/eglise-notre-dame-de-la-nativite-du-val-de-grace  

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