Consider a sea that’s nearly completely surrounded by land and likelihood is that your ideas will go to the Mediterranean. However deep within the south-east nook of Brittany lies a shocking various that packages outside actions, heritage websites and seaside surroundings into one neat bundle. Uncover what to see in Vannes and what to see shut by…
Uncover Vannes
The Golfe du Morbihan, from the Breton phrase for ‘little sea,’ is a tidal basin created 2,000 years in the past when the Atlantic Ocean surged into low-lying land via a spot within the shoreline. At the moment, this distinctive space of saltwater covers 12,000 hectares, its tidal stream reaching inland so far as Auray within the west and the walled metropolis of Vannes on the head of the Gulf.
I begin my exploration in Vannes, based by the Romans in 56BC as Darioritum after their victory over the Veneti. Within the 5th century AD, the city was renamed Venetis and the outdated hilltop website – right this moment’s district of St Patern – was deserted as a brand new city grew up inside fortifications. However it was within the Center Ages that Vannes started to tackle its current side, and right this moment it’s considered one of Brittany’s most enchanting medieval cities with rampart walks, winding streets, and half-timbered buildings.
I’m booked into La Villa Garenne, (chambredhotes-vannes.fr) a classy B&B in a 19th century property with individually themed rooms. Positioned on a slim avenue main right down to the ramparts, the home is simply 150 metres stroll from the marina with a free public automotive park simply up the hill and the station a 15-minute stroll. With Paris solely two hours away by practice, Vannes makes a horny alternative for a metropolis break with added coast.
What to see in Vannes
Tempting although it’s to dive straight into the walled metropolis – the Intra Muros – I head first via Place Gambetta to Quai Taberly beside the marina to go to the Vacationer Workplace. Right here you’ll be able to decide up maps and strolling routes in addition to e-book guided visits or cruise excursions. The café-fringed semi-circle of Place Gambetta stands between the marina and Porte St Vincent, the city’s major gate. However hug the japanese facet of the town partitions to benefit from the full-on impact of these spectacular ramparts. Constructed and rebuilt over a number of centuries, the prevailing partitions and towers are largely from the 15th to 17th century and nearly three-quarters of the fortifications nonetheless stand.
The japanese and northern sections are probably the most imposing, the view unfolding as you cross Château de l’Hermine, as soon as owned by the Dukes of Brittany, and now standing proud above formal flowerbeds within the dry moat beside the Merle river. Preserve to the pavement for a excessive stage view, or take the steps by the Poterne Gate to entry the restored 19th century washhouse and the lawns and floral shows of the Garenne gardens beneath these lofty ramparts.
Flip left contained in the Jail Gate behind the Joliette Tour to entry the oldest a part of the town partitions, courting from the threerd century. Or simply comply with the maze of winding streets. It’s not arduous to think about the medieval scene as you wander from one picturesque sq. to a different beneath half-timbered homes and slate roofs. Place Henri IV beneath the Cathedral is a photographer’s delight, while Place des Lices close to the ducal fort now hosts the Wednesday and Saturday market, however was as soon as the city’s match venue.
Near St Pierre Cathedral with its tall spire is La Cohue, named after the Breton phrase for ‘market’. Within the 13th century, stallholders plied their trades on the bottom ground with the courtroom of justice – and later, the Breton Parliament – upstairs. At the moment it homes the Museum of Advantageous Arts while Château Gaillard, a grand 15th century stone home, is dwelling to the Archaeological Museum.
Each flip reveals some new shock. Look out for the carved wood heads adorning home quantity 13 in Rue St Solomon, and don’t miss ‘Vannes et sa femme’, two painted heads on the nook of Place Valencia, maybe a medieval advertising train for a neighborhood store.
Refuel at considered one of Vannes’ many eating places after which, in the event you’re feeling energetic, perhaps comply with the strolling path from the marina in Vannes to the harbour at Conleau. Or take a cruise tour around the Gulf, maybe with a cease on the Ile d’Arz or Ile-aux-Moines.
What to see close to Vannes
For a unique perspective on this tranquil inland sea, I drive out of Vannes and down the japanese shore in the direction of Sarzeau and the attractive Rhuys Peninsula that kinds the Gulf’s southern boundary. Boat excursions depart from Port-Navalho at its tip for Vannes, Auray and the offshore islands of Belle-Ile, Houat and Hoedic, or you’ll be able to merely watch the currents race via the slim channel into the Gulf.
Criss-crossed with strolling and biking trails, the Rhys Peninsula gives sheltered inward-facing seashores and a wilder, ocean-facing shore. I e-book a keep on the close by Manoir de Kerbot, (hotelrestaurantkerbot.com) a 4-star nation resort with 9 bedrooms and spa, though sadly the connoisseur restaurant is closed on Monday once I go to. However as an alternative I take pleasure in a scrumptious al fresco fish supper on the ocean coast at Côte Plage in Le Roaliguen.
Chateau de Suscinio
Subsequent morning, I head again in the direction of the Atlantic to go to the Domaine de Suscinio (suscinio.fr). One other former dwelling of the Dukes of Brittany, this magnificent moated fort with two large towers was constructed within the late 14th century for Duke John IV on a big property created by the household within the early 13th century.
A state-of-the-art des res with giant mullioned home windows and large fireplaces for max gentle and heat, the Logis Est or ‘Duke’s Home’ even included a second-floor steam room. The Logis Ouest or ‘Marvellous Lodging’ was added by Duke John V to deal with vital company, however over the centuries, the fort fell into disrepair.
Restoration started in earnest in 1965 when the property was bought by the Division of Morbihan, and in 2023, Suscinio unveiled a model new interactive customer expertise. The 12 months is 1450 and, with the help of video projections and copy furnishings, Isabella of Scotland, widow of Duke François I, guides guests across the ducal lodgings to witness negotiations for the wedding of Anne de Bretagne. Eight-year-old daughter of Duke François II, Anne would later turn out to be Queen of France and thus carry Brittany into the French kingdom.
In the meantime, throughout the courtyard, Merlin the magician guides guests via the Logis Ouest to discover the story of King Arthur and his reputed hyperlinks with Brittany. Don’t miss the excessive stage view over courtyard, coast and countryside from the northern curtain wall, nor the character path across the Suscinio marsh. As soon as a pure safety for the fort, right this moment the wetland is itself protected as a nature reserve wealthy in waterfowl. Two different trails supply fort views, wildlife and historic background.
Go to between April and September to take a leisurely row across the fort moat. And in July and August, take pleasure in a spectacular night present each Tuesday and Thursday when 800 years of historical past are projected on the fort partitions, adopted by a spectacular firework show. The proper finale to any ducal time out!
Helpful web site: golfedumorbihan.co.uk
By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and a daily author for The Good Life France Journal and web site.
Need extra France?
Uncover extra fabulous locations in France with our free journal The Good Life France
Love France? Have a take heed to our podcast – every little thing you need to learn about France and extra!
All rights reserved. This text will not be revealed, broadcast, rewritten (together with translated) or redistributed with out written permission.
