Minerve, within the Herault division, Occitanie is formally one of many prettiest villages in France. Karen Tait plunges into its medieval streets to get a way of the city’s historic previous and uncover its charms. Uncover what to see and do in Minerve…
As you drive alongside the highway approaching Minerve, it’s laborious to not be struck dumb by the sight earlier than you. The medieval village clings to the highest of a rocky outcrop excessive above a spectacular gorge – the view is unquestionably little modified for the reason that Center Ages. Okay, so the route is now tarmacked for vehicles, moderately than a tough observe for horses, and perhaps you’ll spot indicators for a café or artwork gallery, however essentially this fortified village stays a lot the identical as when it was constructed within the 13th century.
Its strategic significance is instantly apparent. Its inhabitants would have been capable of spot anybody approaching from miles off – whether or not welcome or not – and the towering stone bridge throughout the gorge would have been simply defended. And but, probably the most notorious occasion that occurred right here concerned a failed siege.
Minerve previous
One of many ‘Cathar cities’, the picturesque streets of Minerve disguise a most bloody of histories. In 1210, through the Albigensian Campaign, a bunch of Cathars escaping the bloodbath of Béziers sought refuge right here. The brutal Simon de Montfort, navy chief of the campaign towards Catharism (thought-about heresy by the Catholic church) adopted them there, organising 4 catapults and trebuchets to bombard the double ring of ramparts.
On the time, Minerve was a robust metropolis, dwelling to the Viscounts of Minerve, and regarded as impenetrable. Nevertheless, after six weeks, Minerve’s solely nicely, the Puits St-Rustique, was destroyed, reducing off the water provide and forcing the stronghold to give up. When the 140 Cathars refused to surrender their religion, they had been burned on the stake within the village sq..
There may be little or no left of the citadel as we speak, simply the octagonal Candela tower, on the entrance to Minerve beneath the carpark (the village itself is car-free). Subsequent to the vacationer workplace, the Rue des Martyrs is regarded as the road the Cathars walked on their strategy to the stake. There may be additionally a monument to the Cathars referred to as the Stèle de Minerve, erected in 1982 – the ‘dove of sunshine’ by the artist Jean-Luc Severac. It’s near the 11th-century church of Saint-Etienne, whose altar is believed so far again to the yr 456.
You possibly can be taught extra about Cathar historical past within the village’s Hurepal museum, whereas the Museum of Archaeology, devoted to palaeontological discoveries made within the close by Aldene cave, reminds us that Minerve’s historical past goes again so much additional than the Center Ages.
The village was additionally a base for the Knights Templars; one of many homes on Rue des Martyrs belonged to the Templiers and a stone archway close to the underside of the road options the Maltese Cross belonging to the Order of Templars.
Sadly, the Cathar campaign was not the final battle to hit Minerve, which suffered once more through the Wars of Faith within the late 16th century; the citadel was dismantled in 1636.
Minerve current
In the present day, as you discover the maze of cobbled streets, it’s laborious to think about the horrors of the village’s previous. It’s now a tranquil and picturesque place, though it will get busy through the peak summer time season. Considered one of France’s 178 Plus Beaux Villages, Minerve is the capital of the Minervois wine area, so it’s the right place to pattern the native wines, in one of many charming eating places or on the Château Minerve, Domaine Vordy and Domaine Cavailles wineries. Cafés, bars and ice-cream counters are dotted by way of the streets, some with views of the gorge, whereas small impartial retailers and galleries promote art work, native crafts, pottery and different specialities.
Round each nook, there appears to be a brand new and spectacular vista, particularly from the bridge. From one aspect of the village, you possibly can admire the valley of the River Cesse, whereas from the opposite you possibly can see a bit of the fortified partitions. Throughout the river is a reconstruction of a medieval trebuchet, the ‘Malvoisine’, identical to those which might have flung rocks throughout the gorge to the partitions of the village.
When you’ve found Minerve’s artifical aspect, if you happen to’re feeling energetic you possibly can proceed your explorations to find the cliffs and caves beneath the city and its extraordinary pure setting. Head down by way of the Porta Bassa, one among Minerve’s authentic two gateways, and observe the trail to the river.
The River Cesse, which carved this monumental gorge, disappears underground right into a pure tunnel. The waters solely stream throughout winter; the remainder of the yr the riverbed is totally dry, so you possibly can stroll alongside it earlier than stopping to lookup on the hovering previous stone bridge above you. The truth is, Minerve is constructed upon a peninsular above the confluence of two rivers, the Cesse and the Brian, each of which have shaped deep gorges and pure bridges within the limestone across the village.
Head again as much as the village to reward your self with a glass of one thing refreshing and one other likelihood to stare upon these superb views – which like Minerve itself, are unchanged from occasions of yore.
IN THE AREA:
Minerve is on the gateway to the Regional Pure Park of Haut-Languedoc. Surrounded by vineyards, garrigue, olive groves and chestnut woods, it provides an exquisite panorama to find on foot or by bike.
Minerve is about 25km from Narbonne,and about 45km from Béziers and Carcassonne, lovely cities with fascinating histories.
The closest airports with worldwide flights are at Carcassonne, Béziers, Montpellier and Toulouse.
Karen Tait is a contract journalist and editor with a penchant for France!
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