A rail tour of Occitanie’s coastal cities is an effective way to see its gems says Gillian Thornton.
Sunday morning and the 9 o’clock practice heading south from Narbonne carries solely a handful of native passengers as we journey alongside the slim finger of land separating the Mediterranean shore from the lagoons. Rosy flamingos sift the shallows for breakfast towards a backdrop of rounded hills, earlier than the road curves gently inland in direction of Perpignan.
I’m travelling with Finest Buddy Liz on a zero-birthday exploration of Occitanie’s most southerly coastal cities through practice, impressed by Occitanie Tourism’s rail journey suggestions (visit-occitanie.com/en). From Narbonne within the division of Aude we have now slipped seamlessly into neighbouring Pyrénées-Orientales to discover Perpignan. However first, a cease in Collioure on the Côte Vermeille, one of many final French seaside cities earlier than the Spanish border.
Collioure
At each small station as we strategy we’re joined by passengers with purchasing baskets. And once we all disembark at Collioure, everybody heads the identical approach. Not straight to the seaside however to twin squares by the harbour the place the produce and craft market is the hub of the retail and social scene on Wednesday and Sunday mornings.
We go away our luggage on the third-generation family-run Hôtel Les Templiers (hotel-templiers.com) simply 50 metres from the seaside and be part of the patrons within the shadow of the Royal Citadel, favorite summer season residence of the Kings of Mallorca. Already we discover a refined change in ambiance. Indicators are in French and Catalan, moderately than the Occitan wording we have now seen additional north, a legacy of the times when Spanish rule prolonged north of the Pyrenees.
Market purchasing ticked, we settle right down to a glass of chilled native rosé and a delicious salad topped with the city’s signature anchovies at Derrière le Clocher, a beachfront tapas bar on Plage Saint-Vincent behind the well-known bell tower of Notre-Dame des Anges.
On the flip of the 20th century, Fauvist artists Henri Matisse and André Derain spent many hours portray the bell tower and boats, attracted by the clear gentle and vibrant colors of the harbour. A century on, Collioure nonetheless exudes creativity, its slim pedestrian streets dotted with galleries. The Hôtel des Templiers has additionally welcomed many artists who’ve all left their mark.
We tour the Royal Citadel, strategic frontier submit on the Catalan border till 1659, when the peace treaty between Louis XIV of France and Philip IV of Spain put an finish to the Franco-Spanish warfare. And we get pleasure from a panoramic view over Collioure on a 45-minute journey into the vineyards on the Petit Prepare Touristique, earlier than savouring extra Catalan flavours at La Delicacies Comptoir (lacuisinecollioure.com).
Perpignan
Subsequent day, it’s simply 20 minutes to Perpignan the place we ebook into the three* Lodge de la Loge (hoteldelaloge.com), a 20-minute stroll from the station. Providing easy however spacious rooms within the coronary heart of the historic quarter, the sixteenth century constructing is situated down a quiet alley reverse the Gothic Loge des Mers. Now the town Vacationer Workplace, the Loge was constructed as a buying and selling room for retailers importing items to Collioure from across the Mediterranean.
Decide up a free map and wind via the slim streets of the pedestrianised outdated city to absorb the nice and cozy Mediterranean colors, the beguiling mixture of retail and refreshment, and the town’s many cultural websites. Subsequent door to the Vacationer Workplace, the courtyard of the City Corridor is residence to La Méditérrannée, a feminine statue by Aristide Maillol, born in close by Banyuls-sur-Mer in 1861. If the Salle des Mariages shouldn’t be in use, pop inside to feast your eyes on its ornate carved ceiling and Rococo fashion work that inform the story of the town.
Perpignan’s best-known heritage attraction is the huge brick Palace of the Kings of Mallorca, constructed on an outcrop of rock, and the seat of Mallorcan energy in the course of the thirteenth and 14th centuries. Be a part of a guided tour of the royal residences, banqueting corridor, and chapel, and take within the panoramic view of the Pyrenees from the highest terrace.
Near our lodge on the banks of the river Têt, the towering crimson brick Castillet can be unattainable to overlook, a 14th century fortress, metropolis gate and one-time jail that was adopted by the fast-growing metropolis as its emblem. Right this moment it’s residence to a museum of native historical past and traditions.
However not all Perpignan’s cultural sights are fairly so apparent. Behind a sober façade in rue Emile Zola, we come throughout the extraordinary Lodge Pams, as soon as the house and manufacturing unit of Pierre Bardou who arrange the JOB cigarette paper manufacturing unit right here, earlier than his daughter Jeanne and her husband Jules Pams remodeled it into a luxurious Artwork Nouveau townhouse with upstairs courtyard backyard. Now owned by the town, this superb property is free to go to.
We’re additionally enthralled by the Hyacinthe Rigaud Museum that homes the town’s advantageous arts assortment. Remembering how we shuffled around the Louvre on our teenage journey, we love the tranquillity of this small however wealthy museum that guides you seamlessly via 4 of Perpignan’s key creative eras, Gothic and Baroque, Trendy and Up to date, with a significant new exhibition yearly.
Instantly after World Battle II, the town attracted many up to date artists together with Pablo Picasso who stayed a number of instances in one of many two adjoining buildings that now kind the museum. Look out for sketches and monochrome photographs recalling his visits within the early Fifties.
We’re additionally moderately taken by Mr Rigaud himself – sure, Hyacinthe was a person – who was born in Perpignan in 1659 and rose to change into court docket painter to Louis XIV. If his 1698 self-portrait ‘Au turban’ is to be believed, Rigaud was very simple on the attention, a pleasant distraction little doubt for the women at court docket. The museum assortment consists of numerous Rigaud’s portraits, all his topics pictured with a fetching half-smile.
And if structure is your factor, otherwise you merely like lovely buildings, head to the Casa Xanxo – pronounced Casa Sancho – a restored Gothic property that now homes an interactive interpretation centre for structure and heritage. And don’t miss Saint John the Baptist Cathedral with its wrought-iron bell tower and cloister cemetery, the Campo Santo, solely one among its variety in Europe.
When Perpignan’s outlets shut for the day, the ambiance modifications within the historic centre the place the excitement strikes from retail to eating places and wine bars. We benefit from the Artwork Nouveau ambiance and conventional brasserie dishes at Café Vienne, open every day on Place François Arago, adopted by a nightcap in a comfy wine bar.
Perpignan hosts many festivals, gala’s, and live shows that deliver the town alive all year long, usually in essentially the most idyllic settings. The Foire Saint-Martin all through November with greater than 150 fairground distributors; festive markets and illuminations as Christmas approaches; and all types of musical occasions as spring turns to summer season and a packed programme of free outside live shows for the annual Fête de la Musique.
In reality keep a few days and also you quickly perceive why Perpignan Tourism has adopted the slogan ‘Welcome to the Centre of the World’. No matter you might be after in a metropolis keep, Perpignan appears to have it!
By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and a daily author for The Good Life France Journal and web site.
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