Often called the ‘pearl of France’ Menton French Riviera in winter is nearly good – assume festivals and fabulous climate says Janine Marsh.
“My grandparents instructed me that Adam and Eve planted the lemon timber right here” stated a person standing subsequent to me on the high of a hill in Menton, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea above a swathe of terracotta rooftops. I should have seemed sceptical as he added, “They are saying that Adam and Eve took not simply an apple from the Backyard of Eden however a lemon. And after they arrived right here, it was as lovely as paradise, so that they stayed some time and the seeds from their lemon grew right here, cherished by the soil, the solar and the ocean air.” He laughed and unfold his arms extensive looking over the city beneath us. I might see his level – this little nook of the French Riviera is enchanting.
Menton is on the border with Italy. Right here the Alps drop right down to the ocean while offering safety from the wind for the traditional coastal city at their toes – and that provides Menton a singular microclimate. It lured British aristocrats, together with Queen Victoria, to spend their winter breaks within the solar right here within the 1800s. The legacy of their time contains a number of unique gardens, and movie star graves together with William Webb Ellis, inventor of the sport of rugby in 1823 and artist Aubrey Beardsley, who, like many Brits, got here for the sunshine and recent air, believed to be a remedy for Tuberculosis. These early rich vacationers additionally impressed the structure of Menton, and several other palace-like former inns stay within the city and on the hills overlooking the ocean.
Immediately’s Menton is a extra bustling place, but it surely retains an air of relaxed joie de vivre. It’s undoubtedly influenced by its Italian neighbour however resolutely French. Smaller and extra sedate than its well-known neighbour Good, a number of kilometres around the coast. And fewer chi-chi than subsequent door Monaco. Nevertheless, this French Riviera magnificence has a lot going for it that it’s laborious to know the place to start out singing its praises, however I believe the lemons have it.
Lemon historical past
Lemons have been cultivated in Menton for 800 years. Within the 14th century, the Grimaldis – who have been on the time the ruling household of Monaco and Menton – constructed a summer time palace dealing with the ocean and so they grew citrus fruits within the backyard.
Lemons have been vital to Menton ever since, and by the 19th century annual exports topped a whopping 35 million lemons. Manufacturing declined by the late 20th century till the distinctive flavour of the Menton lemons underwent a revival.
Lemon pageant
In 1895 native hoteliers thought a carnival may entertain the British guests. They’ll have had no concept how common their concept would change into. In 1928 the carnival included an exhibition of citrus fruits, and in 1934 this formally turned the Fête du Citron®, the Lemon Pageant, in honour of the town’s revered fruit.
Immediately’s Lemon Pageant is a wildly great and joyful extravaganza of color and scent. Monumental fruit sculptures as much as 10m (33ft) excessive are erected in public gardens within the centre of city. Made with a humongous 130 tons of oranges and lemons, they’re an unbelievable sight. Yearly has a special theme, in 2024 it was the Olympics, enormous sculptures portraying Olympic athletes – rowers, swimmers, wrestlers all made out of fruit! The 2025 theme is Journey to the Stars!
There are night-time parades referred to as Les Corsos, with the streets taken over by bands, acrobats and dancers, and floats that characteristic dreamlike magical animals and big creatures made out of oranges and lemons. Confetti canons blast a vibrant mist of rainbow-hued confetti over the joyful crowds as upbeat music fills the air.
Throughout the day there are exhibits, live shows and leisure. It’s a really feel good, enjoyable and unbelievable pageant – when life provides you lemons at Menton, you’ll undoubtedly be in a lemonade temper.
Although it’s a celebration of the Menton lemon, the fruit used to create the sculptures comes from Spain, way more economical to be used within the floats however you’ll be able to attempt the actual factor on the many stalls that line the gardens, on the eating places on the town and by visiting producers within the hills. And afterwards, the pageant fruit is offered to the locals to make jam!
Uncover the lemons
Among the best methods to search out out extra about Menton’s distinctive lemons is to go to to La Casetta, the municipal citrus nursery which opens to the general public throughout the Pageant. This steeply terraced citrus grove thrives in a magical setting, protected by the mountains because it overlooks the Mediterranean. The nursery boasts 120 totally different species. Centuries previous olive timber develop alongside the lemons, mandarins and oranges which have been ripe for consuming in mid-winter after I visited.
“Menton lemons are distinctive due to the microclimate” the information on the nursery defined. “Even in winter, the city basks within the solar and the steep cliffs shelter the groves from northern winds, whereas the ocean gives humidity. The local weather is crucial factor, then the care we offer, nurturing the lemons” he stated proudly “it makes them the very best on the planet. No different lemons are as juicy as ours, and so they have a singular fragrance and style. Have a chew!” He plucked a lemon from a tree, sliced it expertly and held out a wedge.
Now, ordinarily as everyone knows, biting right into a lemon makes you wince on the sharpness, however these lemons are totally different. They bathe your style buds in totally scrumptious, delicate lemon flavour with out the acid flinch. The information smiled at my shock “Menton lemons have IGP (Indication Géographique Protegée), an appellation, they’re like a tremendous wine. We name the little lemon beads ‘caviar’” he stated. “Even the pith is edible, and really prized by cooks.”
He’s not exaggerating. Checks on Menton lemons grown elsewhere within the Mediterranean have proved that the variability grown in its native residence does have extra juice in addition to a special fragrance as a result of distinctive chemical composition of the pores and skin. And the finger-thick pith is gentle and creamy. Prime cooks all over the world sing the praises of Menton lemons.
This heavenly backyard is crammed with the aroma of citrus fruits and the tranquility is interrupted solely by the sound of an occasional plonk of oranges dropping from the fruit-stuffed timber or from bells ringing at a close-by church. Go to for the beautiful views, the fruit tasting, and to see these extraordinary terraces (visits in French solely).
Menton French Riviera in winter
Menton’s seashores are among the many most lovely on the French Riviera and while you could not fancy a dip in winter, it’s usually heat sufficient for a spot of sunbathing. Picturesque and sandy Plage des Sablettes is the busiest and most central of Menton’s seashores and is lined with eating places and bars. Take a stroll alongside the Promenade de la Mer, a palm-tree lined avenue with nice views over the city. Head to Quai Impératrice Eugenie, probably the most picturesque spots, the place you’ll be able to sit, dip your toes within the water, take in the solar or take pleasure in a wonderful sundown.
Tear your self away from the seashores and head to the previous city with its labyrinth of slender, steep cobbled streets lined with buildings in each shade of ochre and yellow from pale apricot to flaming saffron, with shutters painted in strictly managed shades of inexperienced and gray. Probably the most iconic buildings is the Seventeenth century lemon-coloured Baroque model Basilica of St Michael which sits atop a grand zigzag flamboyantly sunflower colored staircase. Contained in the magnificent ceiling frescoes, wonderful chandeliers and wealthy décor are dazzling.
For a tradition hit, Musée Jean Cocteau celebrates the work of famend poet, playwright, novelist, designer, filmmaker and artist Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) with a everlasting assortment of his works, together with drawings, ceramics, tapestries, and work. The museum is in a Seventeenth-century fort which Cocteau embellished with lovely murals and mosaics.
Excessive on a hill sits Menton cemetery. An odd alternative for a go to you may assume however hear me out. This can be a cemetery with astonishing views. Look south over the town to the ocean and so far as Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, look east to see Italy, and to the north are the hovering Alps. The cemetery, constructed on the ruins of the traditional citadel of Menton, is the final resting place of a number of outstanding residents. It’s crammed with statues, sculptures and monuments, and tombs that seem like tiny villas. A lot because the city grew organically over the centuries, the 5 ranges of the cemetery merely unfold out over time. You may’t miss the final resting place of William Internet Ellis, his tomb is completely honoured with rugby shirts and rugby balls left by followers.
From spring to early winter, shiny pink and purple bougainvillea grows all over the place and orange and lemon timber thrive in gardens and streets year-round, however among the finest locations to see them is on the lovely Palais Carnolès. In 1717, Prince Antoine 1 of Monaco commissioned a summer time palace to be constructed within the model of Versailles which is now the Museum of High quality Arts, and the Prince’s decorative fruit grove comprises crucial assortment of citrus fruits in Europe – 137 forms of citrus in a single web site.
The locals say that the grass actually is greener right here and that’s not laborious to imagine as a result of there are such a lot of spellbinding gardens. One to not miss is Serre de la Madone, created by British botanist and backyard designer Lawrence W. Johnston within the early twentieth century – he additionally created the legendary Hidcote Manor Backyard in England, although many think about the Menton backyard even higher than Hidcote. Take a guided tour, or just get misplaced in the great thing about its beautiful inexperienced alleys even in winter. It’s a stunning place to whereas away a number of hours.
And for a extra unique backyard, Val Rahmeh, full with fountains, big waterlily pond and vegetation from all over the world is an absolute magnificence.
Don’t miss the fabulous art-deco coated market Les Halles de Menton the place you’ll discover fabulous native produce from Monday to Sunday. Lemons flavour all the pieces right here and there are many retailers to indulge your new ardour! Attempt lemon beer from Mentounasc, lemon all the pieces at Au Pays du Citron – from jam to candles, and even lemon flavoured oil from L’Huilerie Sainte-Michel!
The place to eat out in Menton
You’re spoiled for alternative on this gastronomic city that gives all the pieces from Michelin starred eating places to conventional Provençal delicacies.
Menton’s most well-known restaurant is the three Michelin Starred Le Mirazur, run by chef Mauro Colagreco, awarded the title “greatest Restaurant on the planet” in 2019 (Restaurant Journal).
He additionally runs the La Pecora Negra pizzeria and, sitting within the sunshine overlooking the bay I couldn’t resist tucking right into a cheese and lemon zest combo designed for the lemon pageant, washed down with a lemon flavoured aperitif. A second of unadulterated pleasure.
For seasonal dishes together with excellent fish and vegetarian dishes, made with native merchandise, Le Petit Prince (lepetitprine-menton.fr) bistronomic restaurant, a stone’s throw from the ocean, is excellent.
Feast on the native speciality – barbajuan – deep-fried crispy ricotta cheese and Swiss chard stuffed pasta, a mixture of Niçoise and Italian delicacies, that’s de rigeur as an appetizer. A culinary speciality of Monaco, the title means ‘Uncle Jean’ in Monégasque. There’s a legend {that a} man referred to as Jean who lived in Monaco, created the dish when he realised he had no sauce to go together with his ravioli and determined to deep-fry them as an alternative. His company beloved them, the recipe was shared, turned immensely common, and so they have been named in his honour. Attempt them at locals’ favorite – Entre II (2 Av. Boyer).
You’ll don’t have any hassle understanding why aristocrats and the rich flocked right here in winter – Menton is a pleasure!
Sensible info:
For details about the Menton Lemon Pageant and tickets for the night-time parades: feteducitron.com
Web site for Menton Vacationer Workplace the place you’ll be able to guide guided excursions, tasting excursions, discover particulars of backyard visits eating places, lodging and extra: menton-riviera-merveilles
Airport: Good Cote d’Azur
Prepare: Paris to Menton through Good takes from 6h 28m
Janine Marsh is the writer of a number of internationally best-selling books about France. Her newest guide How you can be French – a celebration of the French life-style and artwork de vivre, is out now – a have a look at the French lifestyle. Discover all books on her web site janinemarsh.com
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