From troglodyte caves to a monumental Benedictine abbey and picturesque medieval streets, historical past abounds in Brantôme-en-Périgord in Dordogne, southwest France. Nicknamed the Venice of Périgord Vert due to its watery charms, discover out what to see and do in Brantôme.
Formed by water and time
The positioning was first inhabited within the fifth century by monks who carved out troglodyte shelters alongside the Dronne’s banks, protected by cliffs and sustained by river water for ingesting and agriculture. These historical dwellings may be explored from the abbey courtyard, together with one with scenes of the Final Judgement carved into the stone, thought thus far again to the Center Ages. Over the centuries, the caves have served many functions – from monastic retreats and burial chambers to venues for contemporary artwork exhibitions and retailers promoting regional merchandise.
The abbey was based within the eighth century by the Frankish king Charlemagne, who donated relics of Saint Sicarius, one of many toddler boys slaughtered by Herod. This introduced pilgrims and prosperity, boosted by river commerce and tolls on passing boats.
On the northern finish of the abbey on a rocky outcrop, the Romanesque bell tower is alleged to be one of many oldest in France, relationship from the eleventh century. Climb to the highest for sweeping views of the city and river. Contained in the church, gilded wood panels depict key moments within the abbey’s historical past, together with Charlemagne’s donation of the relics, and there are additionally stays of the 15th-century cloisters. Contained in the abbey, the Fernand Desmoulin Museum shows the French religious artist’s work from the early 1900s.
The abbey has been destroyed and rebuilt a number of instances, struggling throughout Viking raids and the Hundred Years’ Warfare. Within the sixteenth century, the abbot Pierre de Bourdeille – generally known as ‘Brantôme’ – is alleged to have saved the abbey from Huguenot assault by inviting the invaders to a feast as a substitute! In the course of the French Revolution, the abbey was secularised and have become the property of the town.
Riverside allure
On the abbey’s southern finish you’ll be able to see the elegant Renaissance Pavilion and the Tour St-Roch, a part of the unique defences. Close by, the tranquil Grand Jardin or Jardin des Moines was as soon as the abbey’s non-public backyard.
A spotlight of the city’s riverscape is the Pont Coudé, whose title describes its uncommon ‘elbow’ form – there are beautiful views of the city and abbey from the bridge, whereas beneath it, boats and paddleboarders glide gently by. Adjoining to the bridge, an outdated stone mill is now house to the Michelin-starred restaurant Le Moulin de l’Abbaye, providing advantageous eating in a surprising riverside setting.
Cross the bridge to find a village stuffed with allure – stone homes with flower-decked balconies and riverside gardens, medieval and Renaissance buildings, a former civil and navy hospital, the Notre-Dame church, a convent and a metallic footbridge, designed with enter from the Eiffel workshop in Paris. Decide up a map from the vacationer workplace to discover the city’s architectural gems.
Brantôme can also be identified for its peaceable gardens and parks. The aptly named Jardins Tranquilles present a serene retreat on a small river island, stuffed with flowers, bushes and fountains, whereas the Alaije Botanical Backyard comprises round 800 plant species, together with uncommon greens and medicinal herbs.
A delicate riverside stroll is considered one of Brantôme’s easy pleasures. For individuals who favor the water itself, the calm River Dronne – considered one of France’s least polluted – is good for canoeing, kayaking and paddleboarding, or get pleasure from an electrical boat cruise, full with historic commentary.
Gastronomic delights
The liveliest time to go to Brantôme is on Fridays, when the weekly market spreads throughout the city centre and riverside, providing all the things from recent produce and cheese to crafts and clothes. It’s an ideal alternative to pattern native specialities like truffles, foie gras, walnuts and strawberries. From June to September there’s additionally a Tuesday farmers’ market, whereas from December to February there’s a truffle market.
Artisan retailers and galleries dot the city, showcasing ceramics, textiles, work, jewelry, wine and different native merchandise – superb for locating a novel memento or present.
Eating in Brantôme is a delight, with a variety of conventional French eating places and riverside brasseries. Native favourites embrace Charbonnel, Le Saint-Sicaire, Côté Rivière and La Desk d’Émilie. The delicacies is proudly regional: confit de canard or magret, truffle-infused dishes, and goat cheese and walnut salads.
Every July, Brantôme hosts a medieval pageant full with knights, jousting, conventional costumes, markets and live shows. Summer season additionally options meals festivals, evening markets and vintage gala’s, whereas winter brings Christmas markets and illuminations.
Brantôme is a timeless city, wealthy in historical past and stuffed with genuine French allure. The gradual passage of the river and the normal way of life invite you to decelerate and loosen up. Whether or not you’re staying a couple of days or utilizing it as a base to discover the Périgord Vert, it affords the right mix of tradition, nature and bon vivre.
What to see close to Brantôme
An official Plus Beaux Détour vacation spot, Brantôme is on the coronary heart of the Périgord Vert area and is the gateway to the Périgord-Limousin Regional Pure Park, a haven for lovers of the Nice Open air. A brief drive away you’ll discover the chateaux of Bourdeilles and Jumilhac. St-Jean-de-Côle, considered one of France’s Plus Beaux Villages, has a stunning medieval bridge and flower-filled streets, whereas slightly additional away, the Dordogne capital Périgueux affords Roman ruins, a domed cathedral and plentiful retailers, eating places and markets.
Karen Tait is a contract journalist and editor with a penchant for France!
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