Step again by means of the centuries within the medieval perched Villages of the “Tuscan” Tarn. Gillian Thornton heads to La Toscane Occitane.
One of many issues all of us need on vacation is evident climate, however put Cordes-sur-Ciel in your itinerary and you can not assist however hope for cloud. Properly, the fitting kind of cloud at any charge.
Cordes-sur-Ciel
Perched on a hilltop within the rolling countryside of the Tarn division, Occtinanie (previously Midi-Pyrenees), ‘Cordes-above-the-sky’ seems to drift above the clouds when early morning mist lingers within the Cérou valley under.
Labeled amongst the Most Stunning Villages in France, Cordes-sur-Ciel is simply half an hour’s drive from my base within the UNESCO-listed metropolis of Albi. Not driving? Then take pleasure in a non-public tour from Albi in a traditional 2CV with Le Tacot Cathare. Alternatively, take a day journey by practice from Toulouse alongside the ‘Bastides and Most Stunning Villages’ line to Cordes-Vindrac, the place you may decide up a bus or taxi for the final 5km.
With transport of my very own, I park on the decrease slopes of the hill outdoors Le Jardin des Paradis, open from Might to September and labeled as a Jardin Remarquable for its dense planting of unique species, its lily ponds, and assorted summer time programme of concert events and exhibitions. Then I set off on foot to wind up by means of the decrease tiers of properties as soon as occupied by Cordes’ working lessons.
Small clusters of individuals had already settled right here round a priory when in 1222, Raymond VII, Rely of Toulouse, inaugurated the bastide as a fortified industrial hub throughout the Albigensian Campaign towards the Cathars. Right this moment it is among the hottest of the Plus Beaux Villages de France within the south-west, so keep away from peak instances if you wish to expertise Cordes at its most atmospheric.
Stroll slowly up the cobbled streets – or take Le Petit Practice – to go by means of rings of defensive partitions and metropolis gates that progressively expanded down the hill because the city grew in significance. At its peak, Cordes was dwelling to round 5,000 individuals together with retailers, weavers and leatherworkers who performed enterprise between the pillars of the central coated market. Right this moment, nevertheless, there are fewer than 1000 residents.
Lookup on the facades of the grand Gothic homes overlooking La Halle on Grande Rue Raymond VII. La Maison du Fauconnier with its sculpted heads of canines and a falcon; the Maison du Grand Veneur carved with looking scenes; and a little bit additional on, the Maison du Grand Ecuyer with its figures of legendary creatures. To a medieval viewers, every one would have screamed wealth and energy by means of its references to the noble sport of looking.
Cordes-sur-Ciel is nicknamed “The town of 100 ribbed vaults” as a result of it has one of many largest concentrations of Gothic civil homes within the south of France, constructed between the top of the thirteenth and the start of the 14th centuries!
The prosperity of Cordes started to say no within the late 14th century throughout the plague and Hundred Years Battle, however fortunes improved once more over the subsequent 200 years because of a thriving commerce in weaving, leatherwork, and pastel, a yellow plant whose leaves produce the well-known blue dye or woad.
And simply as Cordes buzzed with life in centuries previous, so it nonetheless does in the present day. The cobbled streets are dwelling to craft companies promoting work and ceramics, leather-based items, jewelry and illuminated books. And don’t miss the city’s must-try candy deal with, Les Croquantes. Made out of sugar, almond, flour and egg whites, they’re deliciously crunchy and moreish, as I discover out at La Manufacture Gourmande the place I’m handled to a peep inside Noël Emmanuel’s cosy kitchen.
Castelnau-de-Montmiral
Leaving Cordes, I head to the alternative hillside, the Puech Haut, the place a tough monitor off a rustic lane results in the traditional viewpoint throughout the valley. Then I proceed by means of the undulating Tuscan-style countryside to the second of the three Plus Beaux Villages on this north-western nook of the Tarn.
Castelnau-de-Montmiral proves equally fairly however noticeably quieter than Cordes with fewer companies to draw informal guests. However the tranquil streets exude a appeal all their very own. Additionally based by Raymond VII as a strategic stronghold, Castelnau retains sections of its 13th century fortifications, though the medieval fort is lengthy gone.
However I’m nonetheless capable of see what the fort appeared like because of the superb free app, EnQuête which supplies an interactive tour to 6 emblematic communities within the Tarn – the Plus Beaux Villages of Castlenau, Cordes and Puycelsi, plus Gaillac, Lisle-sur-Tarn and Rabastens. Obtain at dwelling in English to make use of earlier than your go to or as a digital tour information as you go.
I notably love the insights and digital actuality scenes that EnQuête provides me to Castelnau’s wonderful Locations des Arcades, fringed with timber-framed homes. Take in the environment of the Tuesday morning market and possibly linger over lunch at L’Auberge des Arcades.
Puycelsi
From Castelnau, it’s lower than 15km by means of La Toscane Occitan to Puycelsi on the sting of the Grésigne Forest, one other strategic base fortified by you-know-who from Toulouse. Perched excessive on a hilltop with commanding views of the Vère valley, this Plus Beau Village additionally retains sections of fortification, greater than 800 metres of ramparts encircling a maze of slender streets. Don’t miss the inside of Saint-Corneille Church, the ceiling lavishly painted in brilliant blue and gold harking back to Sainte-Cécile Cathedral in Albi.
Penne
Final cease on my Tarn village tour is Penne, not a lot for the village itself, however for the ruined medieval chateau that stands on a slender ridge excessive above the river Aveyron. Equally extraordinary is the story of the fort’s 21st century renaissance. On the age of 10, heritage architect Axel Letellier vowed throughout a household go to that he would at some point purchase the Forteresse de Penne, an episode captured on a house video clip that options within the wonderful introductory movie in regards to the challenge.
Occupied for the reason that 11th century, this medieval marvel modified arms many instances throughout the Cathar campaign and the Hundred Years Battle, belonging to everybody from Cathar supporters and the Counts of Toulouse, to the kingdoms of Aragon, France and England. And in 2006, Penne Citadel entered a brand new part when it was purchased by Axel and his spouse Sophie.
After three years of important restoration, La Forteresse de Penne opened to the general public in 2010. Conservation and archaeological work are ongoing, little by little, with most of the artefacts found now displayed in an interesting interpretation centre that opened in 2024.
Everytime you go to, make certain to put on sturdy, comfy sneakers because the steep path from the reception desk is stony and uneven. However there isn’t a rush. Simply let the views unfold as you climb steadily to the doorway gate. As soon as contained in the fort wall, I discover myself stopping often to benefit from the 360-degree view, take one more picture, and easily marvel at this extraordinary feat of medieval navy engineering.
Axel and Sophie Letellier are decided to open up Penne’s historical past to the widest potential viewers, so it’s good to see a college group having fun with demonstrations by costumed characters. All through July and August, guests can watch ‘medieval’ stonemasons at work; see demonstrations of building and fight abilities; and even take pleasure in nocturnal visits.
As I stroll again down the cobbled path, I alternate pleasantries with a gentleman carrying a big bundle of memento cotton baggage. Certain for the fort store, he seems to be Axel Letellier himself. Nonetheless as obsessed with Penne as he was as a 10-year-old and clearly nonetheless very hands-on.
By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and a daily author for The Good Life France Journal and web site.
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