Information to La Roque-Gageac, Dordogne’s “Rock Star” Village. From a prehistoric refuge to a medieval fortress, Renaissance cultural hub, river-trading village and now considered one of France’s most iconic magnificence spots, La Roque-Gageac’s cliffside setting has formed its future each as a spot of defence and a magnet for guests throughout the centuries. Get pleasure from a morning exploring the village adopted by lunch at a riverside restaurant and a day cruise on a standard wood boat.
Even if you happen to’ve by no means visited La Roque-Gageac, there’s likelihood you’ll recognise it. The setting is so dramatically stunning – mellow stone homes strung alongside the bottom of a hovering limestone cliff, with the River Dordogne passing tranquilly earlier than them – that photographs of this Plus Beaux Village are frequently featured on postcards, web sites and magazines to convey the magnetic attraction of the entire Dordogne space.
After all, the picturesque side wasn’t why folks initially constructed right here – the 120m-high cliffs supplied safety whereas the river was a spot for commerce in addition to for water and fishing.
Wander the slim, cobbled streets hugging the cliff base, main upwards between stone homes with distinctive brown tiled roofs, half-timbered facades and pleasant architectural particulars. The streets are adorned with climbing vegetation, closely scented jasmine and vibrant potted flowers, and timeless vistas await you with each flip. Small artisanal outlets and cafés are tucked into the buildings, promoting native specialities like walnut oil, foie gras, truffles, cheese, paintings and ceramics.
Touring the village offers you an actual sense of the layers of historical past right here. The Dordogne valley has been inhabited since prehistoric occasions – the close by Vézère valley is known for its cave artwork at Lascaux – and though La Roque-Gageac has fewer Paleolithic stays, its cliffs and caves would have supplied pure shelter to settlers.
As you head up the slope, you method a considerably stunning discover: the Jardin Exotique, as its identify suggests, is a tropical haven filled with surprising vegetation like bamboo, palms, banana timber, figs, agave, citrus, pomegranate and different unique varieties, which thrive as a result of microclimate created by the south‑going through cliff. They distinction with the stone of the cliff and the outdated buildings and provides this southwest village a Riviera really feel.
Subsequent to the backyard, perched mid-cliff, is the 14th-century Romanesque church of Saint-Donat, with its easy stone structure and lauze stone roof. Linger awhile inside within the peaceable inside with the daylight filtering by means of the small stained-glass home windows… it’s the proper spot for quiet contemplation.
Constructed through the twelfth century and strengthened within the sixteenth, this defensive stronghold served as a lookout and refuge in turbulent medieval occasions. Through the Hundred Years’ Conflict (1337–1453), the Dordogne valley was a frontline between English and French-held territories. La Roque-Gageac, like close by Beynac and Castelnaud, turned a fortified website.
Though some components of the troglodyte fortifications are not accessible because of rockfall hazard, you’ll be able to see how the cliff was used for defence, with lookouts and pure obstacles. There are additionally a couple of chateau stays, from when the bishop of Sarlat lived right here within the 15th century, nearly seen under the fort.
Within the sixteenth century, extra snug dwellings began to seem. Essentially the most spectacular is the Manoir de Tarde, residence to Jean Tarde, a Renaissance humanist, multifaceted scholar, astronomer and shut pal of Galileo. Throughout this time, La Roque-Gageac was not simply defensive but additionally turned a spot of studying and enlightenment. The manor home, with its spherical tower and stylish, mullioned home windows, is extra refined than the country village homes, revealing the wealthier facet of native life in previous centuries. It offers you a way of La Roque-Gageac’s function not simply as a defensive hamlet, but additionally as a cultural centre.
On the sting of the village, the Château de la Malartrie was constructed firstly of the 20th century in Renaissance fashion, on the location of an outdated bourgeois home and leper’s hospital; it’s now a luxurious resort. Additionally, look out for the Sisters’ Home – inbuilt 1805 by a ship grasp, it turned the village’s spiritual college in 1876.
Take a break in one of many beautiful riverside eating places and take pleasure in regional specialities equivalent to duck confit, walnut salad, goat cheese tart, truffle omelette, native river trout or a slice of tarte aux noix, washed down with a Bergerac wine.
Though a spot of leisure nowadays, from the 17th to nineteenth centuries the Dordogne River was a significant artery for transporting items by way of ships often called gabarres.
River cruises depart frequently from the pontoon and final round an hour, simply sufficient time to get a better take a look at the stunning Périgordine homes alongside the banks till you attain the Castelnaud bridge the place the boats flip round to move again to the village. The extra energetic can rent a canoe or kayak and paddle alongside the mild present.
At the moment, La Roque-Gageac is likely one of the most photographed villages in France. The native financial system thrives on tourism, heritage preservation, gastronomy and river-based actions, whereas sustaining a small, genuine group. Summer time markets, regional meals gala’s, musical live shows and the three-day La Roque-en-Fete pageant, with pétanque competitions, a torch-lit river descent and fireworks, carry collectively locals and holidaymakers in a celebration of the village and area.
Shut by there are majestic chateaux and a number of other listed Plus Beaux Villages together with Castelnaud and Beynac-et-Cazenac, medieval rivals going through one another throughout the river valley. The Jardins de Marqueyssac are famend for his or her hanging gardens with boxwood topiary and panoramic lookouts. Different key websites embrace the ever-popular city of Sarlat; the clifftop village of Domme with its extraordinary views; Chateau du Castelnaud-la-Chapelle and its medieval warfare museum; and Château des Milandes, residence to Twenties stage star Joséphine Baker.
When you’re simply visiting La Roque-Gageac for the day, you’ll be able to expertise it from the slim lanes, the sting of the cliff, the tropical gardens and the Dordogne river, every perspective displaying a distinct facet of the village. However I like to recommend staying longer and experiencing the broader space – you received’t be disillusioned!
Karen Tait is a contract journalist and editor with a penchant for France!
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