In a metropolis that appears to be globalizing at breakneck velocity, the Viaduc des Arts is a uniquely Parisian place to go to. Situated within the Bastille district of the twelfth arrondissement, it’s a superb instance of city redevelopment and a profitable transformation of an previous infrastructure right into a cultural landmark.
A Little bit of Historical past
The Viaduc des Arts was initially a part of the Vincennes railway line that ran from the prepare station on the Place de la Bastille to the japanese suburbs of Paris previous the Bois de Vincennes. Nevertheless, as visitors on the road diminished, the railway turned out of date and was decommissioned within the Nineteen Sixties.
Following the closure of the railway, the viaduct and surrounding areas fell into disuse and decay. Within the Eighties, the Metropolis of Paris determined to repurpose the house as a substitute of demolishing the construction (though the prepare station needed to go to make manner for the Bastille Opéra, opened in 1989 for the Bicentennial of the French Revolution).
The previous railway viaduct, nevertheless, turned the middle of two main initiatives: the Viaduc des Arts and the Promenade Plantée. Architect Philippe Mathieux and panorama architect Jacques Vergely have been instrumental within the transformation of the viaduct into an elevated park and, beneath it, a row of studios, galleries, and boutiques. The venture was accomplished in 1994.
The Viaduc des Arts
Immediately the Viaduc des Arts is a 1.5-kilometer stretch housing artisan workshops, boutiques, and galleries beneath the 71 arches of the previous railway line. In step with the historic legacy of the artisans from the close by Faubourg Saint-Antoine, it has change into a spot to showcase Parisian arts and crafts, internet hosting varied trades corresponding to weavers, instrument makers, tapestry restorers, gilders, woodworkers, and furnishings designers.
It’s onerous to overstate how uncommon it’s for locations like this to keep away from turning into nothing however fairly settings for a similar luxurious retail and chain outlets seen in every single place else world wide. It doesn’t damage that the Mairie de Paris (Metropolis Corridor) manages the property, in order that they have an curiosity in holding artisans entrance and middle. The outlets on the Viaduc des Arts are about celebrating the artwork of creating issues by hand, preserving conventional craft methods, and providing one-of-a-kind, high-quality merchandise. It’s an thrilling place for individuals who recognize artwork, craftsmanship, and creativity.
The workshops all have giant home windows overlooking the sidewalk, permitting passers-by to watch artisans at work (which is sweet for those who’re too shy to step inside). Right here’s an concept of what you’ll discover on the Viaduc des Arts:
Artisanal Workshops
There are various artisanal workshops that includes specialists in every thing from musical devices, leather-based crafting, and stained-glass restoration to ceramicists, metallic smiths, and woodworking furnishings makers. Have an previous portray desperately in want of some TLC? The Atelier du Temps Passé has been one of many main artwork restorers for the previous 30 years.
There are a number of jewellery designers together with the Parisian workshop of Cécile et Jeanne , the Corridor Couture incubator for up-and-coming style designers, and the Mahlia Kent boutique of luxurious materials is value a go to for those who’re gifted with a stitching machine your self.
Food and drinks artisans have joined the Viaduc des Arts in recent times, with Confiture Parisienne (jam-making), Distillerie du Viaduc (gin distillery), and a chocolate idea retailer, Atelier C. It’s additionally residence to Les Vignerons Parisiens (wine making).
In one other nod to trendy artisans, you’ll additionally discover Bicloun, which has been restoring and promoting bicycles (and spare components) since 1982. Many of those supply hands-on workshops for most people fascinated about studying or perfecting new abilities, together with We Can Doo and Paris-Ateliers.
Artwork Galleries
There are a number of artwork galleries showcasing a wide range of artwork kinds, together with portray, sculpture, and blended media works. These galleries usually host exhibitions, generally that includes the work of the artisans who’ve their workshops within the Viaduc.
Design Studios
Trying to spruce up your Parisian condominium? A number of design studios might be discovered right here, the place you’ll be able to see a variety of residence decor gadgets, furnishings, and different design items. In fact, that is the place to go for those who want one thing custom-made only for you, corresponding to brass wall sconces from Mydriaz or Série Uncommon to your valuable pied-à-terre. These studios usually show a mix of contemporary design amongst extra conventional craftsmanship, corresponding to Rinck, which was in a tiny passage within the Faubourg Saint-Antoine for the reason that 1840s earlier than relocating right here.
Essential Sensible Info
It’s vital to recollect the Viaduc des Arts isn’t a retail middle. Artisans preserve their very own hours which implies they is perhaps open weekdays solely, closes for lunch, or open by appointment solely. As we’re going into the summer time holidays quickly, they’ll most likely be taking much-needed holidays like the remainder of the Parisians! So for those who’ve obtained your coronary heart set on a number of of the workshops, it could assist to test the official web site and name upfront to ensure they’re open earlier than crossing city.
Consuming and Consuming on the Viaduc des Arts
Along with the workshops, galleries, and studios, there are a number of giant brasseries the place you’ll be able to cease to eat or seize a espresso any time of the day. All of them have spacious interiors in addition to giant summer time terraces, which implies there’s at all times a free desk despite the fact that they’re packed at lunch and for Blissful Hour when the entire workplace staff and locals meet up. Viaduc Café is fairly customary French brasserie. Gamelle is a Spanish tapas type open the newest (till 2am), and has foosball tables and mini-bowling. L’Arrosoir has probably the most fascinating menu (particularly for those who’re a vegan), however I don’t assume anybody involves any of those eating places particularly for the meals, so preserve your expectations moderated and benefit from the environment. 😉
For those who’re a foodie in search of extra intimate bistros and gourmand eating experiences, there are lots on the aspect streets between the Viaduc des Arts and the Place d’Aligre (residence to one of many metropolis’s finest meals markets). Try David Lebovitz’s and Paris By Mouth’s listings for some dependable suggestions.
The Promenade Plantée (aka Coulée Verte René-Dumont)
Whilst you’re on the Viaduc des Arts you’ll be able to’t miss a stroll alongside the Promenade Plantée. The conversion of the previous elevated railway line into an exquisite city walkway was began in 1988 and accomplished in 1993.
Stretching roughly 4.7 kilometers (2.9 miles) from the Opéra Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes, it was the primary inexperienced house of its sort on the planet — a mannequin for the “rails-to-trails” motion which impressed comparable initiatives worldwide, such because the newer Excessive Line in New York Metropolis.
The identify “Promenade Plantée” interprets to “planted stroll” or “stroll with bushes,” which aptly describes the inexperienced and leafy nature of this metropolis oasis. In 2013, the walkway was renamed the “Coulée verte René-Dumont” in honor of René Dumont, a French agronomist, sociologist, and environmental politician.
The park is elevated for a lot of its size, offering beautiful views over the rooftops of town (and uncommon peeks into the home windows of Parisians who by no means hassle with curtains). It options a wide range of landscapes, together with formal French gardens, wilder sections with native bushes and shrubs, bamboo-lined walkways, trellised climbing roses, and quite a few benches and spots to relaxation your ft.
When you get to the Jardin de Reuilly (a favourite locals’ spot for picnics and sunbathing in summer time) the trail goes to floor stage (joined by a motorcycle path). It then continues by way of extra trendy structure and some tunnels earlier than becoming a member of the Bois de Vincennes.
Like all good issues, the Promenade Plantée is such a well-liked vacation spot for each Parisians and vacationers that it’s generally a sufferer of its personal success. Summer season afternoons might be so crowded you’ll be hard-pressed to discover a quiet place to pose to your Instagram selfies (ha!). Within the mornings you’ll should dodge the entire runners sweating it out on their method to and from the Bois de Vincennes.
Accessibility
You’ll be able to entry the Promenade Plantée in a number of places alongside the Avenue Daumesnil (normally the place one other avenue intersects under the Viaduc des Arts). There are elevators, however I haven’t as soon as seen them truly working, so for those who’re in a wheelchair (or typically balk at going up nearly two flights of stairs), enter on the furthest southern level of the Promenade Plantée, the place the Coulée Verte René-Dumont meets Rue Jaques Hillairet on the Google map. Right here you’ll be able to simply observe the ramp in the direction of Bastille (with the bridge going over the Jardin de Reuilly behind you).
Opening Hours of the Promenade Plantée
The Promenade gates are closed at evening (like many of the metropolis parks), when a park guard with a whistle chases everybody out. Summer season hours are 7am-9:30pm, and winter hours are 8am-5:45pm, with fall and spring falling someplace in between (daylight hours on any given week are a superb indication). You’ll be able to test the present hours if you enter the gates or see them posted on the municipal web site.
