The restaurant A.T. is the venture of Japanese chef Atsushi Tanaka, who serves a technicolor tasting menu in a minimalist eating room. My first go to in 2015 prompted disdain. The dishes gave the impression to be designed for the early days of Instagram, and didn’t have a lot depth past their fairly appears. Two totally different tables at dinner contained foreigners watching films on their iPads. No matter this place was, I wished no a part of it.
Nonetheless, I gave A.T. one other shot, returning for lunch in early 2020. I apologized to my visitor prematurely, warning him that this is likely to be horrible. We giggled when each course exceeded our low expectations. The dishes had been nonetheless stunning with splendidly inventive displays, however additionally they tasted good. I returned once more in 2023 and completely liked it, placing it on our record of fifty Favourite Eating places in Paris.
A.T.
4, rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 75005
Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations on-line or at +33 1 56 81 94 08
OUR PHOTOS OF A.T.
IN OTHER WORDS
Le Fooding (2018) finds, inside “this minimalist temple that feels a bit like a recent artwork gallery,” the plates of “the French champion of delicacies d’auteur.” For this reviewer, “this nice Japanese grasp of abstraction received us over.”
Simon Says (2015) “Très sérieux et pas mauvais du tout.”
Not Ingesting Poison in Paris (2015) “… along with his “wine-selector” Lulie Kaori Tanaka, he has embraced pure wine wholeheartedly, breaking floor not only for his in any other case arch-conservative restaurant type but in addition for his neighborhood.”
Atabula (2014) “Ce que prépare AT est bon. Un repas chez lui est agréable bien que sans intérêt. Il n’y a aucune histoire, aucun héritage ni aucune imaginative and prescient dans les plats proposés. Le menu est un empilement d’assiettes, sérieuses et appliquées, garanties techno-émotionnelles, prêtes à figurer dans le prochain numéro d’el cuaderno Apicius. On ressort d’AT avec un étrange sentiment d’inutilité.”
John Talbott (2014) “One other blow-out expertise… we had chichard (a mackerel-like fish) in a cherry-tomato gaspacho with dribs of avocado; some foccacio (significantly better than it was final time) with olive oil from Seville; and lieu jaune (pollack) with pdt puree and safran – with one other barely extra assertive Alsatian wine.”
Le Fooding (2014) “Atsushi Tanaka, of the Pierre Gaganaire faculty, 34 years previous, will get his kicks from reprogramming French gastronomy… positively one of the crucial inventive tables of 2014.”
Le Figaro (2014) “…imposant l’hypercréatif en même temps que le menu distinctive, l’addition cinglante et le décor ascétique… pas facile de suivre sauf à verser dans la pédanterie automotive il arrive que, sous couleur de cérébral, sous couvert d’esthétique, la delicacies n’échappe pas au maniérisme… un chef nippon de plus.”
