It’s no secret {that a} spotlight of French Christmas is the bûche de Noël that crowns a festive meal. What’s much less well-known is that the normal Yuletide log cake isn’t — however I imply, actually hardly ever — made at residence in France. It is because prettily adorned bûches in all sizes are on provide at each pastry store within the nation throughout the season. And but, as I found in my kitchen, it’s each potential and amusing to make one your self.
Bûche de Noël chocolat-noisette / Chocolate-hazelnut Yuletide log
Not that I’m saying it was simple. It required each persistence and a little bit of dexterity. However it all paid off when my rigorously chosen panel of tasters (my daughter and some buddies) tried the log proven within the photograph. The commonest remark? ‘Extra, please!’ Second commonest remark? ‘What’s in it?’ (Quick reply: It’s a skinny hazelnut cake with a tiramisu-style mocha cream filling adorned with darkish chocolate icing and hazelnuts.)
Now, earlier than I am going on, you must know that bûches de Noël are available a tremendous profusion of flavors. Chocolate, espresso and vanilla are widespread however so, nowadays, are raspberry, ardour fruit, pistachio, mango, chestnut and the listing goes one. Pastry outlets promote family-sized logs in addition to bûchettes (simply large enough for one individual) and lots of sizes in between. Frozen bûches are additionally common — manufactured from ice cream or sherbet, typically with cake concerned and typically not. Liberties have been taken with the form. Typically the ‘logs’ are literally rectangular. And the decorations differ wildly. Listed here are some examples from Picard, France’s glorious frozen meals chain.
Once I got down to make a bûche, my first port of name was a cookbook I’ve had for many years referred to as Faites votre patisserie comme Lenôtre — ‘Make your pastry like Lenôtre’ (Gaston Lenôtre was a well-known French pastry chef). Positive sufficient, M. Lenôtre delivered the products, proposing a wide range of bûches adorned with delicate snowmen and mushrooms manufactured from meringue and leaves manufactured from inexperienced almond paste. Very conventional, but a bit excessive for an on a regular basis French chef. So I turned elsewhere for inspiration.
To let you know the reality, I spent hours looking for a recipe that seemed each scrumptious and straightforward sufficient to make in a few hours. One which caught my eye was a recipe for a chocolate-hazelnut log by Cyril Lignac, a well known up to date chef. However then I learn the nice print. His very good-looking log was crammed with pâte à tartiner, aka Nutella, a candy chocolate-hazelnut unfold cherished by schoolchildren and prevented by everybody else. And it was iced with melted milk chocolate blended with (I’m not kidding) a full cup of sunflower oil! At that time I made a decision to innovate — and that’s when the enjoyable started.
I made my go browsing a cold November morning, not understanding how lengthy it could take. I used to be ready to spend the day at it, however the truth is the whole course of took solely two hours. You begin by making the filling — a mix of mascarpone, egg yolks, sugar, cocoa, espresso and crushed egg whites. Then you definitely make a skinny sheet of hazelnut genoise (I used my oven tray for this). When the cake is finished, you chop away the edges to kind a clear rectangle, then coat it with the mascarpone filling and roll it up. Subsequent you make the icing — darkish chocolate melted with a bit of butter and cream (no sunflower oil!). The final step is ornament.
I’m posting this recipe nicely earlier than Christmas to present you time to assume it over and collect the components. The excellent news is that this Yuletide log will be made in phases over a few days, and could also be refrigerated for a pair extra days earlier than serving, or frozen if you wish to get it prepared forward of time. It’s a bit more difficult than a lot of the recipes on this website. However in case you’d like to supply an unforgettable Christmas dessert this yr, go for it. And add a few sparklers if you convey it to the desk. It would knock their socks off.
Blissful cooking!
P.S. Planning forward for Hanukah, Christmas or the New Yr? Loads of strategies for festive meals with a French contact will be discovered on the Vacation Menus web page.
