After I journey I’m continually searching for out stunning locations to see, locations the place I can simply wander round and soak within the ambiance. Throughout my go to to Aveyron in October, I made a cease within the fortified village of Conques for 2 causes: first, to walk round and discover the medieval village; and two, to see the stained-glass home windows at Église Abbatiale Sainte-Foy. One disillusioned me. The opposite didn’t.
1. Conques: Why Is It So Well-known?
Conques is situated 625 kilometres south of Paris and 200 kilometres north of Toulouse in southern France. What makes this village so well-known is that it was (and nonetheless is) a pilgrimage cease on the Camino de Santiago. In 1998, the village was designated a UNESCO World Heritage of Humanity listing (Routes to Compostela in France) and continues to draw pilgrims to the village and well-known church.
Conques has retained the medieval structure and with the well-known Abbey towering over the city, it’s completely stunning and value a go to.
2. Abbatiale Sainte-Foy, Conques
The village is particularly well-known for the church that’s within the centre of city, the Abbatiale Sainte-Foy. Specifically are the stained-glass home windows on this Romanesque church which was constructed within the eleventh century. It changed the Tenth-century basilica and over the centuries has confronted structural points (the lantern tower collapsed), fires set by Protestants within the 1500s, and disrepair within the nineteenth century. Because of this, there have been fixed restoration initiatives and immediately it’s in fairly fine condition.
(a) The Tympanum Of The Final Judgement
To not be missed is the Tympanum Of The Final Judgement, situated above the principle door of the Abbey. It’s wonderful that there are not less than 124 carved figures and it has survived by way of so many centuries intact. At 3.50 metres excessive, one can see the intricate particulars within the inscriptions and sculptures that have been carved into the stone.
The carvings present scenes from the Bible with Jesus on the centre. He factors as much as the precise (towards heaven) and right down to the left (towards hell). On his proper are angels and exquisite surroundings, representing paradise. To the left is Hell, with demons and devils who torture and drag sinners into world of chaos. That is essentially the most fascinating (and creepiest) half. Saint Michael weighs souls on a scale and they’re despatched both to Heaven or Hell.
(b) The Controversial Stained-Glass Home windows
Pierre Soulages
French artist, Pierre Soulages, was commissioned by the Tradition Ministry in 1986 to create 104 home windows for the Sainte-Foy Abbey. Soulages is finest recognized for his daring, black artworks and museum in Rodez, referred to as Musée Soulages. I visited this museum throughout Journey #35 and located his work to be “completely different”.
As you’ll be able to see, the usage of black is in all places. It additionally had reveals concerning the home windows at Abbatiale Sainte-Foy in Conques. Not my cup of tea however I’m glad I visited. À chacun son goût. (To every his personal)
Home windows At Sainte-Foy Abbey
Soulages didn’t need the surface environment at Sainte-Foy Abbey to distract viewers. Nor did he need vivid colors clashing with the church ambiance and Romanesque stone. Fairly than creating conventional, vibrant home windows, Soulages used “water white or achromatic” glass, glass that was not clear however would let in mild. The pure mild that got here into the church might work together with the glass in such a means that will change the color, depth, and chromatic impact relying the place you have been standing.
The home windows at Saint-Foy Abbey, which have been accomplished in 1994, are what disillusioned me. I really like vibrant stained glass home windows in medieval church buildings. They inform tales and infrequently depict scenes in historical past.
Love It Or Go away It?
For my part, the Soulages home windows on the church simply didn’t match with a home of worship that’s so extremely previous. The home windows have been too stark and trendy. I’m so glad the restoration at Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris maintained the unique design. I want Conques had completed the identical, preserving the normal stained glass that one typically sees in sacred locations.
I’m not alone in having this opinion. In truth, when the home windows have been first introduced there was a lot debate and controversy. Some discovered the fashionable, minimalist design was not applicable for a Romanesque abbey and really clashed with the medieval ambiance. Others discovered the white home windows modern and that they made the entire ambiance extra religious.
3. Medieval Conques
I beloved strolling alongside the community of cobblestone streets by way of this nicely preserved, small, medieval city that sits on the slopes of a mountain overlooking the gorges and Dourdou River. Heading to the upper areas of Conques was worthwhile for the scenic views and completely different views of the Abbey Church of Sainte-Foy. The medieval structure of this fortified city is putting and most of the homes have slate roofs.
Many have mentioned that it appears like Conques got here out of a fairytale and is untouched by time. You’ll nonetheless discover remnants from the Center Ages, akin to:
- 4 gateways and towers from the thirteenth century such because the tower that defends the Porte de la Vinzelle
- communal bread ovens constructed on the ramparts within the moat
- small buildings the place chestnuts have been dried
- public fountains and chapels
4. Don’t Miss In Conques
Along with wandering round and visiting the Abbey, you may contemplate visiting Le Tresor D’orfevrerie—Goldsmith’s Treasure—which holds a wealthy assortment of medieval goldsmithing going again to the ninth century. There are some spectacular gold, silver and treasured stones in reliquaries which maintain non secular relics and stays. Having such reliquaries introduced status, pilgrims, and wealth to Conques. The crown jewel that pilgrims, particularly, have at all times wished to see is the reliquary of Saint Foy, also called The Majesty Of St. Foy.
Religion (Foy in French) was a Christian lady who refused to surrender her Christian beliefs or pray to pagans and he or she was martyred in Agen in 303 A.D. and her stays have been secretly dropped at Conques in 866. A gold statue reliquary (accommodates relics) is roofed in gold and treasured gems.
5. Conques’ Vacationer Workplace And Retailers
The vacationer workplace was very useful and I used to be supplied with a superb, free map that confirmed the important thing websites and strolling route. If you happen to go to Conques within the shoulder or excessive season, you’ll encounter extra outlets which can be open, together with ones that make handmade gadgets.
6. Parking In Conques
At first I debated parking on the highway that was beside the doorway to the village; nonetheless, I modified my thoughts and drove by way of the gate and parked within the centre of the village. There have been a lot of areas. I’m glad I did as a result of it meant much less strolling again to my automotive. As nicely, a price might need been required anyhow on that aspect highway. So my recommendation is, simply drive into the village. Upon leaving, I ended on the exit and earlier than leaving, paid for my parking (6 €).
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