Go to Albi any time of 12 months and uncover a metropolis whose vibrant colors dazzle in any climate. Gillian Thornton explores La Ville Rouge within the Tarn.
Wherever you journey on the earth, some views simply stick in your thoughts endlessly. To search out one unforgettable panorama is a reminiscence to treasure, however to discover a succession of wow-moments in the identical city is a uncommon deal with.
Albi is the largest city of the Tarn division in south-west France and a feast for the eyes whichever method you take a look at it. I’ve by no means forgotten my first view of Albi’s monumental hilltop cathedral, largest brick cathedral on the earth. From the skin, Sainte-Cecile resembles a towering fortress, constructed within the early 13th century as a blatant present of Roman Catholic supremacy following a Papal campaign to supress the Cathar motion.
Welcomed by the ruling Counts of Toulouse and by many native folks, particularly round Albi, the Cathar doctrine strongly opposed many Catholic practices. So Albi’s new cathedral despatched an unequivocal message to anybody reckless sufficient to sympathise with heretic ideology. Have a look at our church after which resolve who’s boss…
So once I make a return to Albi this summer time, I’m humbled to seek out that the affect of this imposing exterior continues to be each bit as highly effective. And never simply the skin. Sainte-Cécile can also be the most important cathedral in Europe with a totally painted inside.
Go to Albi – what to see and do
Step by means of the ornate 16th century aspect porch and behind that sombre façade, the partitions, ceiling and roof arches are lined in biblical scenes painted in sensible rainbow shades. Created within the 16th century by Renaissance artists from Italy, they cowl earlier painted scenes of which fragments are nonetheless seen. Entry to the nave is free however count on a small cost to enter the Choir.
In reality in all places you look, Albi shimmers with color, the tones of the native clay incomes it the nickname of La Ville Rouge, a counterpart to the pink bricks of Toulouse, La Ville Rose, capital of the Occitanie area. Round one hour from Toulouse by automotive – and simply accessible by quick practice – Albi’s inhabitants at this time numbers round 50,000 and while the town boasts a full of life retail and restaurant scene, it’s the wealthy historical past that draws most guests to this pleasant metropolis.
I begin my go to within the Cité Episcopale, strategically positioned on the highest level of the city above the Tarn river and listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Website. First cease for many guests is the cathedral however Albi’s bishops lived in grand fashion subsequent door within the Palais de la Berbie. At the moment this turreted, purple brick constructing is dwelling to a novel museum devoted to the town’s most well-known son – artist, illustrator and printmaker Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.
Born in Albi in 1864 right into a rich household, Henri’s mobility and way of life had been compromised by a bone situation that gave him quick legs. However Henri confirmed a expertise for portray from a younger age and I linger over his vibrant research of horses and his experiments with totally different genres of portray executed earlier than he moved to Paris and developed his signature fashion. Right here Henri painted on a regular basis scenes of prostitutes and, throughout his final decade, his well-known promoting posters for cabarets and music halls.
Satirically, Parisian museums thought-about Henri too provocative to simply accept a present of his work from his mom after his loss of life in 1901, aged simply 36. His hometown, nonetheless, was delighted with the donation for his or her modest museum that has since grown into certainly one of France’s main artwork collections. And behind the Berbie Palace is one other of Albi’s knockout views, a high-level panorama over the formal planting of the Bishop’s Backyard – categorized Jardin Remarquable – and throughout the Tarn.
Head around the hovering cathedral tower to soak up the village environment and half-timbered homes of the Castelviel or Outdated Fortress district. The chateau is lengthy gone, however Albi’s newest addition – and one thing of a customer attraction – is the brand new trendy footbridge that runs alongside and beneath the rail bridge to offer a 3rd route throughout the Tarn.
The close by Pont Vieux highway bridge reopened in June after main restoration and is the oldest bridge in France nonetheless carrying autos. Look a technique for views as much as Sainte-Cécile; the opposite method in the direction of the purple brick arches of the lofty Pont du 22 Août 1944 and the previous flourmill, now transformed into places of work, houses and a pleasant lodge.
From the riverside home windows of the Lodge Mercure Albi Bastides, the purple and russet shades of the brick bridges and Cité Episcopal change with the climate and time of day. And what nicer method to wind down than with dinner at an alfresco desk within the lodge restaurant, La Vermicellerie, named in honour of the alphabet-shaped vermicelli manufactured right here within the 19th century.
The lodge and adjoining highway bridge characteristic on Albi’s Blue Circuit, certainly one of three interconnecting strolling routes detailed on a free map from the Vacationer Workplace. Go Blue for views of the Episcopal complicated; Gold for city homes and metropolis improvement; and Gold for the Outdated Quarter that features not simply the Cathedral but additionally Toulouse-Lautrec’s birthplace and the beautiful, flower-filled cloister of Saint-Salvi.
And there are different methods to discover the wealthy historical past of La Ville Rouge. Hop aboard Le Petit Prepare exterior Sainte-Cécile for a 40-minute experience with commentary, or do as I did and take a personal tour with Le Tacot Cathare (letacotcathare.fr) and let your English-speaking driver Marc Fanals reveal a few of Albi’s hidden gems.
Tacot often is the French phrase for an ‘previous banger’ however certified tour information Marc has nothing however affection for Griotte, his basic red-and-white Citroën 2CV that may drive down slim streets impassable to bigger autos, together with the town’s narrowest thoroughfare at simply 1 metre 40 vast. Solely 5.5 million of those iconic autos had been made between 1948 and 1990, however 2,000 beloved bangers nonetheless flow into on the roads of France. And Griotte? Marc purchased his 2CV with a purple ‘griotte’ cherry sticker already in place and the identify simply caught!
However not every part in Albi is purple. After a scrumptious ‘bistronomic’ lunch at La Forge du Vieil Albi, I got down to uncover the town’s inexperienced aspect on a brief cruise by gabarre or flat-bottomed boat with Albi Croisieres. Ranging from a mooring on the Echapée Verte, the Inexperienced Escape path that hugs the riverbank beneath the cathedral complicated, we glide away from city between tree-lined banks, waiting for waterfowl, then flip again to cross beneath the brand new foot bridge and the Pont Vieux so far as the weir earlier than the second highway bridge. Longer choices embody 90-minute picnic cruises and nature cruises.
Earlier than I depart, there may be simply time to find some extra vibrant native colors at Les Poteries d’Albi, a thriving artisanal enterprise round ten minutes’ stroll from the lodge. Based in 1891 as a brick manufacturing facility, this famend pottery has been in the identical household for seven generations, and now produces gorgeous pots and vases for indoor and outside décor, all hand-made and enamelled in vibrant colors.
With 127 sizes and styles to select from and 54 tempting color combos, what do I select to brighten my own residence? A tough selection however in the long run, I’m going for a glowing shade of reddish-brown. The right memento from the Tarn’s gorgeous Ville Rouge.
Helpful web sites: albi-tourisme.fr/en; tourisme-tarn.com/uk
By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and a daily author for The Good Life France Journal and web site.
Need extra France?
Uncover extra fabulous locations in France with our free journal The Good Life France
Love France? Have a take heed to our podcast – every part you need to learn about France and extra!
All rights reserved. This text will not be revealed, broadcast, rewritten (together with translated) or redistributed with out written permission.
