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Go to Bergerac – secret Dordogne


Statue of Cyrano de Bergerac in the town centre

Even in the event you can’t pinpoint it on a map, the city of Bergerac will nearly definitely sound acquainted. Standing amongst the vineyards of south-west France, this bustling group of round 27,000 individuals is the second largest city within the division of Dordogne after Perigueux. However Bergerac’s largest declare to fame is thru a person with solely a distant connection to the city.

Cyrano de Bergerac

Parisian by beginning, 17th century novelist and playwright Hercule Savinien de Cyrano grew up on a household property exterior Paris, given to its authentic proprietor by King Charles VI for his contribution in capturing Bergerac from the English. So, when younger Hercule joined the Gascon Musketeers, he bracketed ‘de Bergerac’ to his household identify as one thing of a private assertion. After a quick army profession, Cyrano de Bergerac led a brief however vibrant life as a part of the libertine motion of literature, dying in an accident in Paris in 1655 aged simply 36.

And there the story might need ended, had it not been for a play written almost 250 years later. In 1897, Edmond Rostand created a piece of fiction loosely based mostly on Cyrano, however portraying him as a gifted Gascon poet with a really massive nostril, who secretly loves his cousin Roxane however believes he’s unattractive to ladies. The story of how Cyrano woos her along with his poetry on behalf of a pal has been acted out on stage, tv and cinema screens ever since. And at the moment you possibly can admire his facial physique in two statues that grace the Artwork & Historical past city that shares his identify.

One of the best of Bergerac and round

Bergerac town centre

Bergerac’s historic quarter is a pleasing place to whereas away a number of hours with its historical streets and bustling market. Or possibly take a ship journey in a conventional Dordogne barge or gabarre. First-time guests are additionally stunned to seek out France’s solely Tobacco Museum, a discovery centre for a plant as soon as extensively grown within the space.

However the surrounding space is full of curiosity too, from heritage cities to lush countryside, riverside walks to a few of France’s Most Lovely Villages. And in case you have even a passing curiosity in wine, you possibly can absorb the winery environment first hand with a keep at Chateau Masburel, west of Bergerac close to the village of Fougueyrolles.

Bergerac lies within the space often known as Purple Périgord, a land of vineyards that morphs into the Bordeaux area. Successive house owners at Chateau Masburel have produced wine right here since 1740 when each chateau and winery had been planted by a Consul to King Louis XV. Over the centuries, the winery grew to become established inside the Montravel appellation, whose chief operate is to supply the highest Bergerac wines grand crus. Solely producing each candy and dry white wines till 200l, Montravel additionally now consists of glorious pink vintages.

Bergreac vineyards

As we speak the vines at Chateau Masburel are within the succesful fingers of Chris Walker and Irma Lazickiene who additionally welcome visitors to their 4 themed bedrooms, every with en-suite and winery views, in addition to to the Tapestry Gîte, separate from the primary chateau with two luxurious bedrooms. Keep on web site and you may tour the 19 hectares of vineyards, style the vintages and purchase from the winery store at your leisure.

Whether or not you’re keen on wine, historical past, or simply the irresistible pull of historical stones, Chateau Masburel makes an amazing base for a vacation within the Dordogne and surrounding space.  Take a 40-minute drive west to Saint-Emilion, one other iconic identify identified throughout the wine-drinking world. This enchanting city tumbles down a steep hillside in a maze of historic streets. Don’t miss the monolithic church hewn out of the rock within the 12th century, the Romanesque maintain, or the Cordeliers cloister. And don’t go away with out tasting the city’s signature macaroons made with floor almonds. Oh, and the well-known pink wine in fact!

Fairly villages close to Bergerac

Monpazier near Bergerac

When you can’t resist a historic village, there are three inside 90 minutes of Masburel which are categorised amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Closest is Monpazier, simply over an hour to the south. Based in 1284 by King Edward I of England, this medieval fortified city nonetheless retains its arcaded central sq. and authentic grid avenue sample.

Close by Belvès dominates the verdant valley of the Nauze river and affords panoramic views over the Périgord Noir area. Besieged seven instances by English troopers throughout the Hundred Years Battle and by Protestant forces within the Wars of faith, Belvès nonetheless boasts troglodyte cave dwellings and nice buildings from the Center Ages and Renaissance.

Additionally listed amongst Les Plus Beaux Villages is Limeuil on the junction of the Dordogne and Vézère rivers, as soon as a buying and selling centre that bustled with the comings and goings of barges and boatmen. Stroll as much as the panoramic themed gardens of the fort park and don’t miss the frescoes at Chapelle Saint-Martin, some of the stunning Romanesque chapels within the Périgord.

Périgueux

Chief city of the Dordogne division and capital of the White Périgord, Périgueux is round an hour’s drive north of the Masburel domaine and a particular must-do. Dominating the city is the UNESCO-listed cathedral of St Entrance, embellished with domes and minarets, and restored within the 19th century by Paul Abadie who later used it as a mannequin for the Sacré Coeur in Montmartre. As we speak Saint-Entrance continues to be an vital stopping level on the pilgrims’ path to Santiago de Compostela.

The city retains many timber-framed homes and fortified properties from the Center Ages and the historic centre features a cobbled artisan district that’s dwelling to bookbinders, blacksmiths and plenty of different conventional trades. However guests can step again even additional in time at Vesunna, the stays of a big Gallo-Roman villa proper within the coronary heart of city, that at the moment are protected by a glass constructing designed by architect Jean-Nouvel.

And if Périgueux whets your urge for food for an city repair, head off within the different path to Bordeaux, a journey of lower than 90 minutes whether or not you drive or take the prepare. Highlights embody an unlimited water mirror reflecting elegant facades and altering skies; Cité du Vin, an interactive centre showcasing wines from the world over; and a wealth of eating places, boutiques and museums.

However the lure of the vineyards and valleys, the water and woodland of Dordogne will ultimately pull you again out to the countryside. And what higher option to finish a day of discovery than with a glass of Bergerac wine and a view of the vineyards? Santé!

Discover extra data at: Chateau-masburel.com; pays-bergerac-tourisme.com/en

By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and an everyday author for The Good Life France Journal and web site.

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