At Sophon, a Cambodian restaurant in Seattle’s Phinney Ridge neighborhood, each dish channels Khmer id. Some, like mouthwatering braised pork stomach braised in soy-coconut milk, are what chef-owner Karuna Lengthy calls “household genuine,” whereas others—like karaage-inspired native mushrooms—pull inspiration from the Pacific Northwest. Sophon is an ode to Lengthy’s mom, who escaped Cambodian genocide underneath the Khmer Rouge. Arising from such tragic circumstances is an abiding spirit of creativity, melding Khmai flavors and cooking strategies in intelligent, compelling methods.
Sophon’s full of life eating room.Photograph by Meron Menghistab
This method is evident within the restaurant’s layered, ingenious cocktails. Components like floral makrut lime leaves, sawtooth coriander easy syrup (derived from the herb widespread in Southeast Asian cooking), and kampot peppercorns (a heat and candy varietal with a kick, grown and shipped from the mineral-rich soil of the Kampot area) pay direct homage to Cambodian delicacies. Bar supervisor Dakota Etley additionally creates housemade elements that nod to deeper cultural connections. A brie-washed American rye hints to each Cambodia’s French colonization in addition to america occupation through the Vietnam Conflict. A kabocha squash tincture references the nation’s agricultural previous—a crop first ushered in by Portuguese merchants earlier than gaining prominence in Japan.
In cocktails just like the Mekong, a spin on a piña colada, fish sauce supplies an intriguing earthy pungence. Named after Southeast Asia’s longest river, this frozen marvel attracts inspiration from Cambodia’s unofficial nationwide dish of amok: fish steamed in coconut cream and aromatic kroeung spices. “The bar menu is primarily Khmer-focused,” Etley says, “but it surely’s additionally just a little contact of the Pacific Northwest as nicely.” Right here’s how the Mekong’s star components come into play.
Coconut cream
Coconut cream is a should in amok. Lengthy recollects seeing Mae Ploy in his mom’s kitchen all through his childhood. The Thai model affords its trademark velvety texture to the Mekong’s remaining kind, and the can doubles as a captivating consuming vessel.
Ripe and inexperienced mangoes
Photograph by Meron Menghistab