There’s “farm to desk” eating. After which there’s Les Résistants. Restaurateur Florent Piard, whom Le Monde’s Camille Labro calls a “fervent militant d’une agriculture paysanne,” passionately advocates for impartial farms in France. His Parisian institutions — together with a restaurant, wine bar, and épicerie — showcase the easiest produce and meats from a community of some 150 impartial farms.
Piard spent eight years crisscrossing the Hexagon to satisfy with producers at greater than 1000 farms. (He additionally hung out with fishermen, market gardeners, salt staff, and winemakers.) His aim? To study as a lot as attainable about agricultural manufacturing programs, as a way to champion these fermes paysannes. This promotoes conventional savoir-faire, whereas additionally strengthening hyperlinks between customers and rural farmers who’re respectful of the setting. What’s extra, it considerably lowers the carbon footprint.
The newest mission on this outstanding mini empire is known as La Desk des Résistants. Previously referred to as L’Avant-Poste on 7 rue de la Fidélité within the tenth arrondissement, the restaurant is a gastronomic handle the place chef Maurizio Madaio (previously at David Toutain and Loiseau Rive Gauche) adjustments the dishes primarily based on each day deliveries from accomplice farms. These producers are listed on the menu, together with their geographic area, and waiters inform tales about every ingredient, connecting your meal to the countryside the place the produce was harvested, or the Brittany shoreline the place the fisherman caught the pollack.
Right here’s a take a look at an autumn lunch. (We opted for the Menu Paysages Paysans, a steal at 45 euros for 4 programs. There’s additionally a formule of entrée – plat – dessert for 28 euros.) A sea bream gravlax with heirloom tomatoes and hazelnuts. Pollack with tapenade and a inexperienced pepper ketchup. Completely cooked Breton steak with chard and mushrooms. Oh, and we beloved the bread served with hand-churned butter from the Ferme du Wern. The meals is so good — served in a pretty eating space with tile flooring, excessive ceilings, and uncovered stone — that you just’ll want to delay the meal so long as attainable. Subsequent time we’ll guide dinner, the place there’s a six-course possibility (the Menu Embruns Paysans prices 69 euros).
DETAILS
La Desk des Résistants
7 Rue de la Fidélité, tenth arrondissement
Métro: Gare de l’Est ou Château d’Eau
Tel: +33 (0)9 81 41 01 07
Open from Tuesday – Sunday from 12 – 2 pm, and seven pm – 9:30 pm
Observe: In the course of the pandemic, Sluggish Meals Worldwide highlighted Piard as a “Sluggish Meals Hero” for his work with farmers affected by the disaster. Take a look at the video under.
Lead photograph credit score : La Desk des Résistants. Photograph: Bonjour Paris Editors
