The city of Limoux lies on the river Aude 25 kilometres upstream from Carcassonne in Aude, Occitanie. It has two claims to worldwide fame: its glowing wine – and its carnival. Colin Duncan Taylor goes to a historic carnival and sips the oldest glowing wine on the earth
The longest carnival on the earth
Venice might boast the oldest and Rio the biggest, however Limoux claims to have the longest carnival on the earth. Round 600 dancers belonging to 30 totally different troupes make sure that these festivities could be sustained thrice a day, each weekend – plus Mardi Gras – from the tip of January till early April.
The Carnival of Limoux is unusually compact. Right here, there are not any carnival floats, no lengthy parades. Occasions unfold within the intimacy of the medieval sq. with a sleek magnificence which has been described as a miraculous mixture of immobility and motion.
Be a part of them for a gradual dance
Every procession begins at one of many cafés on the sq. and continues to the following, and there are such a lot of watering-holes beneath the arcades, the street is rarely a protracted one. Sometimes, the dancers advance round 40 metres in 20 minutes, so spectators have on a regular basis on the earth to take pictures and admire the masquerade.
Two equipment are important to the standard carnival dancer’s efficiency. First the wand, round two metres lengthy and created from reeds gathered on the Mediterranean coast simply after the primary frosts of January. Second, the confetti bag, colored to match every dancer’s costume, and huge sufficient to carry a number of kilograms of shredded paper.
The delivery of the carnival
The carnival began within the 16th century when most wind or water mills round Limoux had been labored by tenants. These millers needed to pay their annual hire on the finish of winter, and annually after they had settled their dues, they celebrated. Legend claims that when, in 1582, this celebration coincided with Mardi Gras, the millers paraded within the central sq. accompanied by oboes, fifes and drums. The Carnival of Limoux was born.
Rowdy and generally violent
These festivities generally turned violent. Take 1605, for instance: there was a torchlit procession and joyful dancing beneath the arcades to the music of violin and drums, however then combating broke out between rival factions, and among the city’s consuls had been roughed up within the melee. Within the 18th century, the carnival was usually a rowdy affair fuelled by tensions between the wealthy and the poor. There have been frequent stand-offs between hatters, weavers and retailers, and municipal authorities had been jeered and even stoned.
At present, the carnival is a peaceable affair and the one risk of violence comes on the final night time when the carnival king is tried for his crimes. Seven judges hear proof for and in opposition to the poor king, though everybody is aware of what the decision will probably be. It’s the identical yearly: loss of life by burning. Fortunately, the king is just a straw model and he goes up in flames like a Christmas tree.
The oldest glowing wine on the earth
The final night time of the carnival is called la nuit de la blanquette, named in honour of a glowing wine known as Blanquette de Limoux, the city’s different declare to fame. Blanquette de Limoux promotes itself because the oldest glowing wine on the earth, and there’s no higher place to style it than on the carnival. These festive companions share a heritage that stretches again to the sixteenth century, and in response to some sources, the gradual rhythmic gestures of the carnival dance symbolize the peasants urgent the grapes with their toes. However how did the wine first get its fizz?
The legend of Saint-Hilaire
The Abbey of Saint-Hilaire lies midway between Carcassonne and Limoux. It was based by Benedictine monks within the early ninth century. Earlier than lengthy, they had been tending vines, and a doc from the 12 months 931 information {that a} winery was donated to the abbey. Within the bedrock past the cloisters, the monks dug out caves, and that is the place they made and saved their wine.
Sooner or later in 1531, a monk was despatched to fetch a bottle, and on eradicating the stopper, he found {that a} second fermentation had taken place. The wine was fizzy. By chance, the monks of Saint-Hilaire had created the world’s first glowing wine.
The story doesn’t finish there. A century later, legend has it that the monks obtained a go to from considered one of their brothers within the north. Naturally they served him their glowing wine, and the great Dom Pérignon returned to his monastery at Saint-Pierre d’Hautvillers in Champagne with the recipe hidden in his behavior.
Faux information or onerous information?
The primary a part of this legend gained slightly extra credibility when a doc relationship to 1544 was found in 2013. It’s a ledger stored by the Limoux city treasurer, and an entry information that varied wines had been equipped to Sieur d’Arques, and amongst them had been 4 pints of blanquette to accompany the great lord’s dinner (immediately, Sieur d’Arques is the identify of the principle cooperative and it is a superb place for a dégustation.)
Sadly there was no point out of the wine being effervescent, and even that it got here from Limoux. Blanquette was the previous identify for an area sort of vine which is now known as mauzac, and any wine derived from the mauzac or blanquette vine was additionally known as blanquette, and though this vine was primarily cultivated within the Midi, it was not unique to Limoux.
So, though immediately a wine can solely be known as Blanquette de Limoux whether it is effervescent and accommodates at the least 90% mauzac, we all know little concerning the wine that Sieur d’Arques was consuming in 1544, other than its identify.
Silencing the doubters
We’ve to attend till the beginning of the nineteenth century for the primary written affirmation of effervescence: in 1801, a sure Dr Fau claimed that his glowing mineral water was far superior to Blanquette de Limoux with its frothy fermentation. Some wines from Limoux had been undoubtedly effervescent earlier than then, however it’s not possible to say when this grew to become a dependable and deliberate attribute.
In conclusion, though the claims of seniority made by Blanquette de Limoux stay unproven, nowhere else has offered a extra credible pitch for the title, Oldest Glowing Wine within the World. Come to the carnival, comply with a troupe of dancers right into a bar, and also you received’t discover anybody who doubts the legend. After just a few glasses, neither will you.
In regards to the writer
Colin Taylor has lived within the south of France for 20 years, and thru his books he shares his ardour for the area’s tradition, gastronomy, historical past and language. The story of Roquefort is recounted in a lot better element, together with the tales of many different regional specialities, in his e book, ‘Menu from the Midi: A gastronomic journey by means of the South of France.’
Discover out extra at www.colinduncantaylor.com
