A beguiling mixture of arts, gastronomy, cobbled streets and cotton candy-coloured sunsets await in Les Baux-de-Provence in Les Alpilles within the coronary heart of Provence, says Janine Marsh.
South of Avignon, former residence to the Popes, and a brief journey from the enchanting city of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, take the winding roads that wriggle between the rocky Alpilles mountain chain till you attain a secret village – Les Baux-de-Provence. A labeled Plus Beaux Village (formally one of many prettiest villages in France), that is certainly one of Provence’s most lovely hilltop villages. Carved into an arid white rocky plateau 245 m above sea stage, the small city is residence to some twenty historic monuments dotted round its cobbled, car-free streets.
The village perches beneath the nice limestone outcrop upon which the lords of Baux constructed their huge chateau, completely summed up within the phrases of a tune by Italian folks rock singer-songwriter Angelo Branduardi: ‘Dans son château le Seigneur des Baux prend la pluie au visage’ – In his chateau, the Lord of Baux takes the rain in his face.
Climb to the very best level of this limestone ridge, and also you’ll see what impressed the phrases – it’s such as you’re on the prime of the world and sat within the clouds although to be truthful, rain is uncommon right here on this sun-kissed a part of France. The Tenth-century chateau was partly dug into the rock and is now in ruins, however the view from the ramparts is breath-taking. I’d go as far as to say that the view from Les Baux is without doubt one of the greatest in Provence, overlooking Arles and the Camargue, the shimmering countryside paying homage to Tuscany, and on a transparent day, you possibly can see all the way in which to the Mediterranean Sea some 20 miles away. In the event you look onerous, chances are you’ll spot wild birds of prey, together with the Bonelli’s Eagle and, at nightfall, Eagle Owls.
The village and its numerous architectural heritage, a sprinkling of Renaissance and a Soupçon of medieval, is an enthralling mixture of slim streets, reward and craft outlets, bars and eating places, all decided to delay you. There’s a Romanesque church and a small museum devoted to painter Yves Brayer, and one other museum is devoted to the Santons of Provence, a regional Christmas custom. A brief stroll from the village will deliver you to one of the vital unimaginable artwork venues in Europe, the Carrières de Lumières, the Quarry of Lights, the place you might be immersed in a bathe of digital photos. It’s doubtless one of many biggest sound and lightweight reveals on the planet. Set in an deserted quarry inside a mountain, a sequence of giant ‘rooms’ carved from the rock function completely different artists yearly, from Van Gogh to Monet.
A stone’s throw from the village, surrounded by lavender fields, vineyards, and olive orchards, is the Hôtel Benvengudo, which the Beaupied household constructed and has run for greater than 50 years. It’s the right place to take in the ambiance of Les Baux and Les Alpilles, only a few minutes from Saint-Rémy and quarter-hour from Arles.
“Les Baux is particular”, says Carole Beaupied, “everybody feels it once they come right here. The gorgeous streets, the stunning little outlets, and eating places just like the family-run Le café du musée, with its contemporary meals and a gorgeous view over the rocky valley. Sipping a glass of Champagne as you watch the solar set over the rocks which flip to burnished gold, is a really soul-inspiring expertise, the pure great thing about this space is dazzling.”
Lodge Benvengudo sits within the coronary heart of this bowl of alpine tranquillity. “This can be a place to chill out, discover and uncover what makes this space the soul of Provence,” Carole says. “There are hidden gems just like the medieval pavillon of Queen Jeanne, often known as the Temple of Love, which Provencal poet and author Frederic Mistral cherished a lot he selected it because the design for his personal tomb. You may discover the artisan vineyards on the Alpilles wine route, together with one which King Francis 1st of France gave to his daughter, it remained within the household for 4 centuries. Go to the lavender distilleries, the traditional cities or head to the seashores for a day trip. We like to share the secrets and techniques of Les Baux and its environment with our visitors.”
The lodge has a spread of beautifully-decorated rooms and villas, and presents actions together with therapeutic massage, yoga and tennis classes. Their distinctive restaurant serves great native meals together with olive oils produced on the lodge’s property. On a heat night time, tables are set on the terrace, the place the atmosphere gives a second of serendipity. Benvengudo has the soul of Provence in its DNA. “Company keep right here and go away somewhat of their coronary heart behind however take residence with them a reminiscence of the sweetness, concord and tradition distinctive to this space” says Carole. “It truly is somewhat piece of heaven.”
Hôtel Benvengudo: benvengudo.com
Tourism Les-Baux-de-Provence: lesbauxdeprovence.com
Janine Marsh is the creator of a number of internationally best-selling books about France. Her newest guide The way to be French – a celebration of the French life-style and artwork de vivre, is out now – a take a look at the French lifestyle. Discover all books on her web site janinemarsh.com
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