They’re known as the Golden Stones, or Pierres Dorées, a string of small villages ensconced within the Beaujolais area north of Lyon.
The second you get right here, you will know why.
The quiet streets of the village of Oingt ©OffbeatFrance
In 2018, Beaujolais acquired UNESCO World Geopark standing to guard a panorama that has modified over hundreds of thousands of years to lastly yield the soil, the stone, the wine, and finally the villages themselves now we have in the present day.
The stones right here shimmer someplace between gold and rust, regardless of the climate. There’s a lot to do and see right here: you may discover the agricultural village structure, cycle or hike via the vineyards, or go wine-tasting.
For just a few hours, you will be plunged into beautiful environment which have someway escaped the “prettification” of mass tourism.
Utilizing native stone to construct magnificence
The Pierres Dorées villages are the results of centuries of use of native limestone wealthy in iron, which oxidizes when uncovered to air – therefore the rusty colours.
In lots of villages throughout France, stones wanted for constructing are introduced in from different elements of the nation. Not right here. Within the Pierres Dorées, the whole lot is made with the identical native stones, from home partitions to church buildings and barns.
The end result could also be a sure uniformity, however do not be fooled, it’s miles from monotonous. Quite the opposite, every village retains its personal persona and even the colour of the stone is barely totally different.
The Pierres Dorées are made up of round 40 communes, or villages, and till 1914, nearly each one had its personal quarry. Essentially the most lively did not simply provide native wants however shipped stone to Lyon and so far as Switzerland.
The quarries have since been deserted and are being reclaimed by nature, except for the Bonave quarry at Theizé, the place a lone stonemason continues to chop stone the standard means for restoration work.
From Lyon to the vineyards
The Pierres Dorées sit on the southern tip of the Beaujolais, the place Roman civilization unfold up the Saône hall. The villages developed to their fullest a bit later, throughout the Center Ages, and like many villages in France, a number of sit on the high of hills, a place that protected them from invasion.
Small castles dotted the area (some nonetheless do, like Montmelas, which I element under), offering safety to locals and demonstrating a sure authority over the land. And naturally, every village had its church.
Inside of the church in Oingt ©OffbeatFranceBetween villages are the vineyards, typically so far as the attention can see, however the villages stayed small, huddled inwards, however affluent due to the wine.
The villages right here did not modernize, at the very least not a lot, and naturally that may be a nice a part of their enchantment. When you needed pleasure and the tempo of recent life, Lyon was shut sufficient. With escape at hand, there was no use to change or “enhance” native day by day life.
A typical village of the Pierres Dorées ©OffbeatFranceThe result’s a comforting stability.
Largely, the villages stay as they had been, bar just a few indicators or street fixes right here and there, some additional consuming locations, a café or two and perhaps a vacationer workplace.
Fairly than destroy outdated buildings to construct new ones over their foundations, the outdated buildings stayed, nonetheless used a lot as they had been up to now.
Issues to see and do within the Pierres Dorées
That is not to say there’s nothing to do right here – quite the opposite. Between mountain climbing and biking and wine-tasting and easily taking the time to walk and admire, you will simply have the ability to fill your hours, and even days.
Oingt and the artwork of staying put
Oingt is the most effective recognized of the Pierres Dorées, labeled as certainly one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, the itemizing of France’s most stunning villages. That label brings guests, however the village does not appear to have sacrificed its authenticity to it.
Oingt nonetheless seems medieval, and its format hasn’t modified in centuries. Neither is it stuffed with memento outlets – and should you’re searching for a meal, there are just a few eating places, principally exterior the village, and a crêperie however that is it. Streets nonetheless comply with the curve across the hill and you may step right into a tiny entrance solely to be confronted by a quiet courtyard inside.
One “modernization” effort includes opening artists’ workshops to guests for a payment, a current effort launched in 2025 (and which I’ve not had the possibility to personally expertise, since I principally journey low season). You would possibly see a calligrapher working letters or a glassmaker spinning a creation however these all happen in Oingt’s buildings, not in trendy or constructed workshops.
Autumn within the streets of Oingt, on the lead-up to the Beaujolais NouveauHaving fun with Beaujolais Nouveau
The third Thursday in November shifts the tempo right here. That is when Beaujolais Nouveau is launched, and whereas the principle celebrations occur farther north within the coronary heart of Beaujolais nation, the Pierres Dorées villages take part with out the vacationer crush.
Wineries open their doorways and locals collect to style the brand new classic, nonetheless younger and vivid with fruit. It isn’t nice wine – it is meant to be drunk younger, inside months – however that is not the purpose. It is in regards to the ritual, the getting collectively to rejoice the top of yet one more harvest.
You may discover impromptu celebrations at vineyards, individuals spilling out of cellars with glasses of their hand, evaluating notes on this yr’s wine. The environment is pleasant somewhat than industrial and should you go to throughout this time, you too have gotten a part of a convention. (When you do not drink wine, there’s loads of grape juice to go round!)
Beaujolais Nouveau brings vitality in November, however the Pierres Dorées sit simply far sufficient from the epicenter of wine nation to keep away from chaos and really feel the season with out the crush.
The crèches of Oingt
By the point Beaujolais Nouveau is out, one thing else begins to occur, particularly in Oingt: the primary nativity scenes present up in home windows and doorways across the village. Not suddenly, however progressively, as households put together for December.
You would possibly spot an angel right here, a small secure there, hints of what is coming. The decorations develop extra elaborate because the month progresses, till the village turns into a full scavenger hunt of sacred scenes.
The mixture – wine celebrations giving option to Christmas preparations, autumn yielding to winter – makes late November an unexpectedly wealthy time to go to. The vineyards have been harvested, the Nouveau has been launched, and the villages are settling into the quieter rhythm of the low season.
One in all many nativity scenes in Oingt at Christmas ©OffbeatFranceDifferent villages of the Golden Stones
Oingt will be the most visited of the villages however a number of others need to be explored you probably have the time.
Ternand was as soon as fortified, and you’ll nonetheless see traces of its defensive previous within the towers and ramparts that stay. The village climbs a hillside, its slim lanes opening onto sudden views of the encompassing vineyards. The Eleventh-century church of Saint-Victor is value in search of out, with its easy Romanesque traces and peaceable environment. Ternand feels much less visited than Oingt, which suggests you are extra more likely to have streets to your self, particularly exterior summer time months.
Theizé sits greater than most villages within the area, which supplies it commanding views throughout the Beaujolais. The village is understood for its lively quarry the place conventional stone-cutting methods are nonetheless practiced for restoration work. A brief stroll from the middle, you will discover the ruined Château de Rochebonne perched on a rocky outcrop, its remaining partitions providing panoramic views that make the climb worthwhile. The village maintains a working relationship with its previous somewhat than treating it as museum piece.
The village of Theizé, one of many Pierres Dorées ©OffbeatFranceChâtillon-d’Azergues sprawls alongside the Azergues river on the southern fringe of the Pierres Dorées. Its 14th-century citadel, full with spherical towers, dominates the village and now homes the city corridor. The medieval bridge crossing the Azergues is a kind of buildings that is been repaired and rebuilt so many instances it tells the story of centuries of floods and crossings. The village feels extra lived-in than polished, with on a regular basis outlets alongside the golden stone facades.
Bagnols brings a barely totally different environment with its Renaissance château, constructed within the fifteenth century and lavishly restored. Not like many châteaux that really feel frozen in time, Bagnols operates as a luxurious resort, which suggests the constructing continues to serve a objective somewhat than merely be admired. The village itself stays small and agricultural, with winery work seen within the surrounding panorama. It is a spot the place historic grandeur meets working viticulture.
get round
Essentially the most revealing option to perceive the Pierres Dorées is on foot. Paths hyperlink villages via vineyards, forests, and open hills, although some distances are too lengthy for a single day. Many hikers come up from Lyon for nation walks, although the place they get their stamina I have no idea. I stored working into the identical group village after village – they had been strolling, whereas I used to be driving. After all, they reduce throughout vineyards. A automotive couldn’t.
As a result of the land is hilly, you by no means fairly know what’s going to seem over the crest. One other village, a church, a cluster of stone homes, all quietly luminous.
What the Pierres Dorées seem like on a sunny autumn day ©OffbeatFranceBiking is another choice. Climbs make it tough for newcomers, however it’s onerous to drive quite a lot of kilometers with out assembly cyclists weaving via the vines. An electrical bicycle is an effective possibility for many who want a little bit of assist.
For households or informal riders, La Voie Verte affords about 15 km of car-free biking between Belleville and Beaujeu, following an outdated railway line via wine nation. It is flat, secure, and features a cease on the Maison du Terroir Beaujolais, the place you may meet winemakers and pattern native merchandise.
In case your time is proscribed, a automotive is sadly the one option to get round. Villages will be a number of kilometers aside and you can go to a lot of the space you probably have transport.
Sensible notes for guests
The great thing about the Pierre Dorées is that the villages are beautiful in each season, due to the altering gentle. I’ve now visited twice in November and the liveliness across the Beaujolais Nouveau has been part of the expertise.
When you solely have half a day, select one or two villages and wander round. For a hike between villages, you will want a full day, so staying close by makes it simpler.
For wine tasting, you will discover outlets and cellars open throughout the Beaujolais Nouveau season and in summer time. Exterior these instances, you may name forward and make an appointment.
CHÂTEAU DE MONTMELAS
If you need the total golden stone expertise, you may sleep in a citadel tower or proper subsequent to its partitions. Château de Montmelas sits on a rocky outcrop in Montmelas-Saint-Sorlin with views throughout the vineyards towards Mont Blanc on clear days. Development started within the tenth century, when it served as a garrison for the Sires de Beaujeu who managed this territory. It has been in the identical household since 1566.
The citadel has loads of tales. Through the Revolution, when lord Gaspard de Montmelas was imprisoned in Lyon, villagers marched to town to free him. One resident was Marguerite-Catherine Haynault, mistress of Louis XV, who married into the household and lived right here from 1766 till 1823. The present neo-Gothic look dates from an 1828 rebuild by Lyon architect Louis Dupasquier.
In the present day it’s a working wine property (Marquis de Montmelas, 50 hectares) run by the d’Harcourt household. You may go to in summer time or by appointment, or higher but, spend the evening in gîtes transformed from citadel outbuildings and towers.
FAQ
About 40, relying on how strictly you outline golden stone structure. Essentially the most visited embody Oingt, Theizé, Ternand, Châtillon-d’Azergues, and Bagnols.
The Pierres Dorées sit inside the Beaujolais wine area, at its southern finish closest to Lyon. Whereas all Pierres Dorées villages are in Beaujolais, not all Beaujolais villages use golden stone.
Sure. The area lies about 30-40 minutes north of Lyon. You may go to two or three villages comfortably in a day, or concentrate on one and add a stroll or wine go to.
There is no such thing as a dangerous season. Autumn brings harvest exercise and coloration. December provides nativity scenes in Oingt. In winter, you might have clear gentle and fewer guests. Spring and early summer time flip the vineyards inexperienced.
Sure. Paths hyperlink many villages via vineyards and woods. Distances differ from brief strolls to full-day walks, with rolling somewhat than excessive terrain.
Staying in one of many villages affords the richest expertise. Oingt, Theizé, and Châtillon-d’Azergues have gîtes and chambres d’hôtes. Château de Montmelas affords one thing totally different and historic.
Earlier than you go…
The Pierres Dorées sit on the fringe of Lyon’s lengthy story. After villages formed by medieval stone and winery work, it is sensible to return to town the place that story started. Roman Lyon (known as Lugdunum) nonetheless anchors the hill of Fourvière, with its theaters, baths, and traces of an imperial capital.
Or, you can go on and discover the area on one of many many day journeys you may take from Lyon…
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