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What It’s Like To Take A Burgundy Barge Cruise


When you’re seeking to do one thing completely different in your subsequent journey to France, learn on to search out out what it’s wish to take a Burgundy barge cruise. It actually helped me calm down and recharge after packing in so many actions throughout a current journey. I did some sluggish journey on CroisiEurope’s MS Jeanine and it was a brand new method for me to see the countryside, smaller villages, and historic websites and benefit from the native meals and wines on this beautiful area of France.

No extra driving, hopping on and off trains, reserving excursions, or making dinner reservations. The whole lot was taken care of for me. All of the meals, wine, drinks (apart from premium drinks), and day by day excursions had been included within the 6-night/7-day cruise and once I say meals, I imply connoisseur French delicacies with distinctive wines.

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1. CroisiEurope’s Burgundy Barge Cruise

MS Jeanine barge on the Canal de Bourgogne
MS Jeanine barge on the Canal de Bourgogne (Photograph: J. Chung)

A barge cruise is just not like a typical big-ship cruise. I’ve been on an ocean cruise to the Caribbean, the place there have been 1000’s of different passengers. For this Burgundy barge journey with CroisiEurope, the expertise was rather more intimate with fewer passengers (lower than 24) and extra personalised service.

CroisiEurope is a family-run,  worldwide firm with headquarters in Strasbourg. It makes a speciality of French cruises but in addition does canal and river cruises all through Europe, Africa, the Baltic, Vietnam, the US, South America, and different worldwide locations.

2. What Is A Barge?

Women and children pulling a barge-photo at La Maison des Mariniers
Ladies and kids pulling a barge (Photograph on show at La Maison des Mariniers)

In French, a barge is a “péniche” and it’s a flat-bottomed boat that was initially used on canals to move items. It was fascinating to study throughout our tour at a barge museum, that originally, these boats travelled alongside the canal utilizing manpower…or ought to I say by girls and kids who pulled the barge as they walked on towpaths! [Towpaths are paths or dirt roads located beside a canal or river and were used by human or animal labour or machines to pull the barge.] They’d do that for 14 hours a day over 13 kilometres. Then the ladies would go house, head out to get water, after which return house to make dinner. Horses, vans, trains, after which mechanized boats had been ultimately used.

At this time, barges are like floating resorts, however a lot smaller! And the canals are primarily utilized by vacation cruisers and vacationers for leisure journey. Along with cruise line barges just like the one I used to be on, households and {couples} usually rent canal boats for every week or extra.

3. What’s It Like To Take A Barge Cruise On MS Jeanine?

MS Jeanine on the Canal de Bourgogne-Burgundy barge cruise
MS Jeanine (Photograph: J. Chung)

(a) Navigating Locks

YouTube video of navigating through a lock on the Burgundy canal.

The excellent news is that MS Jeanine is fashionable, totally geared up with engines, and no exhausting labour is required to tug the boats! This luxurious barge strikes at a snail’s tempo (or ought to I say a sluggish tempo) —from 3km to eight km an hour.  It’s very simple to stroll sooner than the barge, so you realize it’s not going quick!

I by no means acquired uninterested in watching the barge maneuver by means of a slim lock (“écluse”) the place there are only some inches between the boat and the wall. Typically the locks had been opened/closed manually by lockkeepers who would pace forward of our barge on motorbikes or in vehicles to make certain they had been able to get us by means of the locks. And different instances, all the course of was automated. [Click on the image above to see a time-lapse video of the barge navigating through a lock or click here: YouTube video of the barge moving through the lock].

(b) The Format Of MS Jeanine

MS Jeanine barge lounge area
The lounge space of MS Jeanine (Photograph: J. Chung)
Terrace on the main deck of the MS Jeanine barge
Terrace on the primary deck (Photograph: J. Chung)

The decor on the barge is vibrant and cheery. All cabins/staterooms and public areas are air-conditioned and have Wifi. There are three ranges to the barge with the highest being the solar deck. It was not all the time open (as we had been usually going underneath bridges); nevertheless, when it was, one might calm down on one of many many lounge chairs.

The center stage has the primary deck, with a bar space, lounge, eating room, and out of doors deck. This out of doors space on the primary deck has many tables, umbrellas and chairs, and a scorching tub. The decrease deck had all of the cabins which you accessed by a flight of stairs.

(c) The Staterooms/Cabins

Twin cabin on the MS Jeanine barge
MS Jeanine cabin (Photograph: J. Chung)
Bathroom on the MS Jeanine barge
Lavatory on MS Jeanine (Photograph: J. Chung)

A lot of the staterooms have 2 twin beds. Whereas it was not overly spacious, it didn’t really feel cramped. Measuring slightly below 100 sq. toes, I might name it cozy and comfy. It was effectively laid out, with room to retailer my suitcase, my clothes on cabinets, and a small closet to hold garments. It was geared up with a secure, a small dressing desk, a blow dryer, mirrors, plenty of electrical shops (220 volt-European sockets), and a rest room with soaps and shampoo and a rest room and full-size bathe (with glorious water strain).

Looking out the window from my barge cabin
View from the cabin (Photograph: J. Chung)

It additionally had a big window above the beds which regarded exterior. Not a foul view, eh? Housekeeping cleaned the cabin day by day and recent towels had been replenished normally when you had breakfast.

At night time, the boat didn’t sway in any respect and I didn’t hear any engine noise both. The mattress was very comfy and I slept nicely. Whereas the cabin was small, I actually solely used it to sleep, bathe and alter for dinner.

In an effort to chop down using plastics and be extra environmentally accountable, CroisiEurope has refillable glass water bottles in every cabin. I really like that the ship had a water fountain machine within the lounge that allotted glowing water, chilly water, and water at room temperature.

(d) Service And Crew

The crew of the CroisiEurope MS Jeanine
The ultimate gala night time with the crew of MS Jeanine (Photograph: J. Chung)

The 6 crew on board the MS Jeanine are multi-lingual with the primary language being French; nevertheless, it was not tough speaking with any of them in English. Florian (our captain), Mathias (deckhand), Lilla (cruise supervisor), Bernadett (waitress/server), Krasmira (cabin stewardess), and Mohamed (French chef) all made a particular effort to make our journey the last word in consolation.

It was the good, little touches that the crew did that made the journey so gratifying. For instance, after being on a tour when it was very warm, we had been greeted with a chilly drink after we boarded. Or, whereas sitting on the deck watching the barge undergo a lock in the future, we got a pre-lunch cocktail like an Aperol spritz with nuts.

I simply felt like they went out of their method to ensure each element was taken care of and that our wants had been met. I used to be seated at a desk with 2 English-speaking passengers and after the primary day, I actually needed to converse with the French passengers too, and requested the cruise supervisor if all of the tables may very well be grouped collectively. This was shortly organized as there have been solely 7 of us and everybody appeared a lot happier with the association.

(e) Your Fellow Passengers

For 7 days I sailed on the MS Jeanine. Whereas it could actually accommodate a most of 24 passengers with 12 staterooms, the week I went there have been solely 7 passengers with 6 crew members. That is uncommon and simply luck of the draw as the next week the cruise was bought out.

There have been 2 Individuals and a pair of French {couples}, and me, the lone Canadian. The French visitors just about solely spoke French with slightly English. I spoke sufficient French that I might converse with the French passengers adequately. One couple, particularly, was extraordinarily understanding and useful once I made errors. I actually loved speaking to them and the husband really stated my French improved in the course of the cruise.

When you take a CroisiEurope barge cruise, in all probability you’ll have a mixture of nationalities. I’d contemplate it a non-English talking cruise and in the event you solely converse English you’ll be okay because the crew does converse English. Nonetheless, as it is a French cruise line, it usually has a big contingent of French-speaking visitors, significantly for cruises in France (though I feel it actually relies on the cruise you’re taking). I might counsel that attempting to study some French and utilizing a couple of phrases whereas on board will make your interactions with the opposite passengers extra gratifying.

It’s exhausting to say what’s the common age of a passenger is on a barge cruise as this specific cruise solely had 7 passengers. I feel I used to be the youngest (early 60s) and the others had been of their 70s. The opposite passengers had been skilled cruisers, having performed river or barge cruises in France prior to now. The French {couples} had beforehand performed cruises within the Dordogne, Loire, and Alsace.

4. Distinctive Meals And Wine On A Barge Cruise

Dinner on the terrace of the MS Jeanine barge
Dinner on the terrace of the MS Jeanine barge (Photograph: J. Chung)

Along with the very good service, what stood out for me on this cruise was the meals and wine….and people cocktails! Previous to the cruise, every passenger is requested to finish a type to point any dietary necessities, meals or allergic reactions and even mobility points, and lodging and alternate options had been all the time provided.

Pre-lunch cocktail-Pina Colada
Pre-lunch cocktail (Pina Colada) (Photograph: J. Chung)

The breakfast buffet kick-started the day with freshly-squeezed orange juice, yogurt, fruit, cheese, meat, croissants, baguettes, and pastries. Simply earlier than lunch, it was time to partake within the day by day cocktail—a inventive concoction like a vodka, pineapple, curaçao cocktail, or a Piña Colada.

Lunch And Dinner

Dinner main course: chicken, sausage and gamba-Burgundy barge cruise
Rooster, sausage, and gamba (J. Chung)
Dinner main course on MS Jeanine: Duck breast with blackcurrant sauce and sweet potato puree and asparagus
Half-portion fundamental course: Duck breast with blackcurrant sauce. (Photograph: J. Chung)
Chestnut mousse dessert-Burgundy barge cruise
Chestnut mousse dessert (Photograph: J. Chung)

The multi-course lunches and dinners had been fantastically and creatively introduced by Chef Mohamed. Many instances he would do the plating in entrance of us. Dishes included:

  • salmon en crôute with spinach
  • duck with cherries and a blackcurrant sauce with candy potato puree and asparagus [Note: in the photo above, this was a HALF portion as I didn’t think I could eat a full serving. I was wrong. I went back for more!]
  • crayfish in lobster sauce
  • beef tenderloin with speculoos sauce accompanied with cauliflower purée and carrots

All the dishes had been completely scrumptious. I put the standard at par with a few of the most interesting eating places I’ve ever eaten at in France…together with Michelin-starred eating places.

Brie and Maroilles cheese course at lunch on the Burgundy barge cruise
Brie and Maroilles cheese course (Photograph: J. Chung)

The lunch menu had 4 programs: an appetizer (usually a few completely different salads), a fundamental course, 2 completely different regional cheeses (ie. Saint Nectar, Maroilles, Morbier, and Comté), and a dessert plus wine. Our cruise director or server would give us an summary of every wine that may be paired with our meal. We had been handled to French wines from many areas with an emphasis on these from Burgundy (ie. Bourgogne Aligoté).

Dinner had three programs: an appetizer (ie. foie gras or Bayonne ham), a fundamental course, dessert (ie. Crème brulée, or pears in wine sauce) plus wine. We ate within the eating room and if the climate was nice, we ate on the open-air terrace. Always there have been white linen tablecloths and china and the meal lasted about 2 hours.

All I can say is that you’ll NOT go hungry and you’ll NOT be missing wine or liquor on this barge cruise. There may be an open bar and lodging are simply made. For instance, if white wine is being served however you’d desire purple, no drawback. Need a beer as an alternative of wine? No drawback.

5. Burgundy And The Doubs Valley

The barge cruise I joined was the “Burgundy and the Doubs Valley” itinerary.

(a) Canals, Rivers, And Ports

The Burgundy and Doubs Valley route (Photo: CroisiEurope)
The Burgundy and Doubs Valley route (Photograph: CroisiEurope)

We travelled from Dijon to Besançon and the primary night time we had been moored in Dijon and the final night time in Besançon. We by no means cruised at night time and in a single day stops had been in smaller, charming villages comparable to Peitit Ouges, Saint-Jean-de-Losne, Dole (birthplace of Louis Pasteur), and Ranchot.

Saint-Jean-de-Losne, France
Saint-Jean-de-Losne, France (Photograph: J. Chung)

Our complete journey solely lined solely 115 kilometres however we did move by means of 54 locks so inevitably it was sluggish journey..however really gratifying journey as we cruised alongside these completely different waterways:

  • Canal du Bourgogne
  • Saône River
  • Canal du Rhône au Rhin
  • Doubs River

(b) Historic And Cultural Excursions On Our Barge Cruise In Burgundy

Dole, France (Photo: J. Chung)
Dole, France (Photograph: J. Chung)

Every day, an itinerary was posted within the bar space, indicating when breakfast was to be served, the place we might be heading that day, and the instances for any excursions, cocktail hour, lunch, apéritifs, and dinner.

Audio units had been offered to all passengers for our non-public strolling excursions and excursions. This helped us hear the native tour information in case it acquired noisy. Typically we had a information that spoke in English and French and different instances the English passengers went with a information who solely spoke English.

Chateau du Clos de Vougeot (Photo: J. Chung)
Château du Clos de Vougeot (Photograph: J. Chung)

The next excursions/excursions had been included in our itinerary. We typically took a bus from the barge for our visits. I discovered the excursions very informative. They included:

  • Grand Crus Wine route with a go to to Château du Clos de Vougeot-a vineyard constructed within the twelfth century by monks; it was adopted by a wine tasting at La Grande Cave de Vougeot
  • Petit-Ouges: charming nation village
  • Dole: a really fairly city and the birthplace of Louis Pasteur
  • Saint-Jean-de-Losne: probably the most picturesque port cities in the course of the journey. It’s on the intersection of the Saône River and Burgundy Canal and is a serious port for boat lovers who want to purchase, promote, and restore boats. Glorious tour of La Maison des Mariniers the place we realized in regards to the historical past of barging and tasted some native wine/meals.
  • La Saline Royale of Arc-et-Senans- it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Web site; right here we realized in regards to the fascinating endeavor that ran from 1780 to 1895, to move salt water 21 km from Salins-les-Bains to the manufacturing unit at Arc-et-Senans.

(c) Actions

Walking along the Canal de Bourgogne
Strolling alongside the Canal de Bourgogne (Photograph: J. Chung)

A barge cruise is a soothing cruise. This isn’t a celebration boat! You will be as lively or non-active as you need. Most individuals sat on the deck or contained in the lounge studying, taking part in playing cards, taking part in board video games, sitting within the scorching tub, or having a drink. When docked there was even a sport of boules amongst passengers and crew.

A couple of instances I walked on the (very flat) towpath, alone or with a few of the crew. I’d move runners, walkers, bicyclists, fishermen, and younger folks on rollerblades and scooters.  However for probably the most half, it was a quiet, leisurely stroll. It was enjoyable testing the lock homes. Some have really been bought and was properties, full with gardens…and even paintings.

Sun deck on the MS Jeanine (Photo: J. Chung)
Solar deck on MS Jeanine (Photograph: J. Chung)

The barge does have bicycles on board that you should use to do an tour and one afternoon I did simply that and rode to the final lock the place we had been going to dock. What I most loved was simply sitting on the desk with a drink, both studying or watching the barge get us by means of the lock.

6. Remaining Ideas

So, did the CroisiEurope Burgundy barge cruise meet my expectations of offering me with relaxation and rest? Sure, for sure. I re-energized and was prepared for the subsequent a part of my journey. It was a pleasant change to deal with smaller cities and villages after visiting the large metropolis of Dijon. Do contemplate a pre- or post-cruise keep in Dijon or Besançon.

The service, meals, and wine onboard the MS Jeanine barge exceeded my expectations. And, there have been simply sufficient excursions that didn’t make all the 7 days really feel loopy busy. Your complete crew offered distinctive service they usually went out of their option to give consideration to passenger wants and comforts.

One bonus for me was the chance to talk French a lot. I not solely improved my French however realized rather more about French tradition.

So in the event you’re seeking to immerse your self in French tradition and delicacies, and open your self to exploring extra of rural France, contemplate this Burgundy barge cruise. It will likely be sluggish however in the end rewarding.

7. Getting To The Barge

View of Dijon from Philippe Le Bon Tower (Photo: J. Chung)
View of Dijon from Philippe Le Bon Tower (Photograph: J. Chung)

The Burgundy and the Doubs Valley cruise started in Dijon; nevertheless, the reverse itinerary can also be obtainable. I stayed in Dijon the night time earlier than the cruise and the night time the cruise ended. I made a decision to check out two completely different resorts (Hôtel des Halles and Ibis Types Dijon Central) and to be sincere they had been equally nice. They had been each near the practice station (a 10-minute stroll) and town centre. A taxi from the centre of Dijon to the barge rendezvous was lower than 10 €.

Try the most effective costs right here: Hôtel des Halles and Ibis Types Dijon Central

8. Regularly Requested Questions

Listed here are the questions I used to be most concerned about realizing when taking the barge cruise:

Will you get seasick on the barge?

I feel it’s extremely unlikely you’ll get seasick. I’m very delicate to getting movement illness and I by no means got here near feeling queasy or nauseated. The boat doesn’t rock forwards and backwards like a typical huge ship. Even when crusing, the barge moved at a easy, sluggish pace and the waters had been calm.

How did I meet up with the barge to begin the cruise?

The day earlier than the cruise, I stayed in Dijon as this was the start line for the cruise. I left my baggage within the resort in the course of the day so I might discover town. Later within the day, I took a taxi to the dock for the 6:00 pm embarkation. After check-in, there was a welcome drink (champagne) with the crew and all passengers earlier than dinner.

Is there a lot free time?

Whereas there are day by day excursions, there’s loads of free time on the barge and once you arrive at a city (ie. Petit-Ouges, Dole, or Ranchot) there may be time to stroll round earlier than or after dinner.

Do you tip on the finish of the cruise?

Sure. Tipping is on the discretion of the passenger; nevertheless, CroisiEurope suggests anyplace from €5 to €10 per day per particular person. An envelope is left in your cabin the night time earlier than you disembark.

What was the costume code?

Informal. Even on the final night time (the gala night time), I wore an informal costume that I had worn on the primary night time. Shorts and a T-shirt had been the everyday outfits in the course of the day. I modified for dinner however was nonetheless informal.

Are meals taken collectively on the identical time?

Sure for lunch and dinner, all of us ate collectively on the identical time. Lunch was at 12:00 and dinner was normally at 7:30 pm. We ate within the eating room or exterior on the terrace. For breakfast, a buffet was obtainable throughout sure hours (ie. 7:30-8:30).

Had been there any additional prices?

Your transfers to the start line and from the ultimate vacation spot are additional. At our last vacation spot, I took a taxi from the barge to the practice station in Besançon. Beer, wine, drinks from the bar, water, juice, espresso, and tea are all included in your package deal when you’re on the barge. There are additionally some drinks which can be on a particular bar card and wine checklist that price additional. Plus any drinks/meals off the barge are at your expense. The CroisiEurope barge cruise was really all-inclusive.

Disclosure: I used to be a visitor of CroisiEurope, however any opinions expressed on this submit are my very own.    

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