Any walker who follows one of many French pilgrim trails to Santiago de Compostela in Spain is assured a heady mixture of pure landscapes and exquisite buildings. However few can compete with the Pont Valentré that spans the river Lot at Cahors.
A serious landmark on the Through Podensis from Le Puy-en-Velay in Auvergne, this medieval bridge with its three defensive towers is a wow from any angle, however particularly when mirrored in nonetheless blue water. Open to visitors till 1983, Pont Valentré is now purely pedestrian and wherever I stand, I merely can’t resist one other photograph says Gillian Thornton as she takes a prepare journey by way of the Lot.
Pickled prior to now Cahors is filled with allure
North-west of Toulouse within the Occitanie area of South-West France, Cahors is the principal city of the Lot division, surrounded on three sides by steep hills and nestled inside one of many many tight meanders carved out of the panorama over the centuries.
The native Gauls worshipped Divona, goddess of underground water, at a gushing spring right here beside the Lot – a web site now referred to as the Fontaine des Chartreux – however it was the Romans who based the city of Divona throughout the meander the place three roads met.
Arrive by street right now and Cahors is a perfect base for exploring the gorgeous Lot Valley. Or take the prepare from Toulouse in lower than 90 minutes, simply one in every of many route choices on the Occitanie Rail Tour. No matter your mode of transport, the family-run Resort Terminus (terminus-1911.fr) is effectively located reverse the station and simply ten minutes’ stroll from the historic outdated city. Count on Artwork Nouveau stained glass, conventional environment, and seasonal dishes within the Bistro 1911.
What to see in Cahors
I begin by selecting up a free map on the Vacationer Workplace in Place Mitterand, separated from the historic Outdated City by Boulevard Léon Gambetta, a broad thoroughfare on the road of the medieval ramparts. Gambetta’s father ran a grocery store beside the Cathedral and younger Léon, born in 1838, went on to turn out to be a lawyer and republican politician who performed a distinguished position within the Third Republic from 1870.
Subsequent door to the Vacationer Workplace, the Cahors Malbec Lounge (vindecahors.fr) is the go-to spot for understanding the Lot Valley’s well-known wines. Not simply crimson, I uncover, however white, rose and glowing too, served right here in conventional native glasses that incorporate a hoop of glass within the stem. Select from 4 tasting choices from 6 to 16 euros per individual.
Guilhem, my wine information, explains that of the 70 domaines and 180 wine makers inside Appelation Lot, 80% are impartial, the others a part of a co-operative. And while the grapes are principally Malbec, blends can embrace as much as 30% of different native varieties. The Malbec Lounge showcases as much as six domaines every week to assist guests discover their favorite and perhaps guide a winery go to.
Tasting over, I flip my again on the Outdated City for some time and head west for the brief stroll throughout the isthmus to Pont Valentré, constructed – very slowly – within the 13th Century near the Fontaine des Chartreux. With its six arches and three imposing towers, this distinctive medieval bridge is listed by UNESCO as a part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.
On a small grassy financial institution beside the primary tower, I’m stunned to search out rows of vines that become extra than simply an commercial for the realm’s liquid treasure. ‘The Backyard of Inebriation’ is the beginning of the city’s Secret Gardens itinerary, a self-guided path of 21 themed plots which are an intrinsic a part of native life. Launched in 2002, they gained Outstanding Backyard standing in 2006 and are maintained on eco-friendly rules. Natural matter is recycled; beds recurrently mulched; and crops chosen for his or her suitability to local weather and soil. Decide up the free annotated path information.
After the autumn of the Roman Empire, Divona retreated to land on the jap facet of the isthmus. Enclosed with a ditch and ramparts within the 7th century, the city grew steadily in significance because of its street and river commerce hyperlinks, attracting retailers, bankers and medieval entrepreneurs. Stroll right now by way of the guts of the historic city and you’ll nonetheless see their imposing homes with arcades for outlets and workshops at road stage and stylish home windows above, the accolade of oldest property on the town going to the half-timbered nook home at 12 Rue de la Daurade.
The close by Cathedral of St Stephen boasts two of the most important cupolas in south-west France and an ornate carved tympanum in addition to vestiges of medieval wall work. And I discover a number of Secret Gardens close by together with a vibrant Moorish Backyard with its vibrant mosaics and working water; the raised beds of the Monks’ Kitchen Backyard; and the Flower Backyard offering altar flowers for the Cathedral. For an allergy-friendly restaurant with a unique menu day by day, strive Restaurant Marie Colline close by.
I’ve one other deal with in retailer earlier than leaving Cahors. Crossing again throughout Boulevard Gambetta, I come to the Henri Martin Museum (museehenrimartin.fr), reopened in Could 2022 within the former Bishop’s palace after main refurbishment. This unmissable museum is devoted to the celebrated post-Impressionist painter, born in 1860 in Toulouse and a lifelong lover of the Lot countryside. In 1900, Henri Martin purchased the Domaine de Marquayrol, 23 km from Cahors the place he spent 5 months each summer season portray native scenes.
The brand new-look museum brings collectively on three flooring an eclectic vary of displays acquired by the Metropolis of Cahors together with archaeological finds, work by artists from the Quercy area, and a group based mostly round Léon Gambetta. However satisfaction of place goes to Martin himself. Guests to Toulouse could already know his enormous wall work contained in the Capitole constructing, however this enchanting museum boasts the most important public assortment of his works, amongst them scenes of Cahors and the Lot Valley.
Impressed by Martin’s work, I would like no additional excuse to go east alongside the river for a welcome return to one in every of his favorite topics. St Cirq Lapopie is assessed amongst France’s Most Stunning Villages, named after the kid martyr Saint Cyr and one of many three feudal households who administered the village. No automobile? Catch the bus linking Cahors with Figeac and stroll as much as the village perched excessive above the Lot.
Saint-Cirq-Lapopie
St-Cirq-Lapopie buzzes by day with guests come to browse the small galleries, eat on the eating places, and simply take in the medieval environment of homes from the 13th to fifteenth Centuries. However solely a few dozen individuals reside completely within the steep cobbled streets that result in the ruined hilltop chateau. Ebook a room and you’ll have the village to your self.
I dine on scrumptious confit duck leg on the Gourmand Quercynois, rightly standard for its genuine regional delicacies, and keep in an enormous room with valley views at Maison Lapopie (maison-lapopie.com), a pleasant B&B that gives tranquillity within the excessive. The house owners reside off web site, so your key awaits you within the door and breakfast arrives in a picnic basket to take pleasure in at your non-public window desk.
Subsequent morning, I take a quiet stroll by way of abandoned streets earlier than heading again all the way down to river stage for a tranquil towpath stroll in direction of Bouziès, departure level for seasonal river cruises. Then I’m again on the street for the scenic drive to Figeac (examine Figeac in The Good Life France Journal Difficulty 38 – it’s free!).
Discover out extra at Cahors Vallee du Lot Tourism
By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and an everyday author for The Good Life France Journal and web site.
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