Capital metropolis of the historic Poitou area, west-central France, Poitiers is a relaxed metropolis with some high-octane thrill choices on the doorstep. Gillian Thornton went to search out what to see and do in Poitiers.
Strategically located at a crossroads of commerce routes, the Roman city of Limonum was a buzzing place to be across the 1st century AD with an amphitheatre seating greater than 30,000 residents of the Empire. And a couple of,000 years on, 21st century Poitiers remains to be a beautiful choice for a relaxed weekend break or as a stopover on a tour by Nouvelle-Aquitaine.
What to see and do in Poitiers
With its wealthy historical past and compact, walkable centre, Poitiers is a delight for lovers of historical past and heritage, however there’s a modern vibe too with half of all residents being underneath 30, because of town’s giant pupil inhabitants. And with one of many nation’s greatest and greatest theme parks on the doorstep, plus a brand-new water park, Poitiers is maintaining the traditional Roman custom of offering time for all.
However historical past isn’t distant. The amphitheatre was one of many largest in Roman France, although it was demolished within the 1850s to permit for an city makeover. Right this moment solely fragments stay in cellars and included into different buildings, however different traces of the traditional metropolis nonetheless paint an intriguing image.
Museums, monuments and marvellous church buildings
I’m standing within the underground gallery of the Sainte-Croix Museum, the place the spirit of the Empire remains to be tangible because of uncovered Roman foundations uncovered beneath the previous abbey of Sainte-Croix. I’ve an actual sense of individuals too as I linger over fragments of uncommon gladiator helmets and a surprising marble statue of Athena found by building employees in 1910.
Poitiers takes its title from a Gallic tribe, the Pictones or Pictavi, who lived within the Oppidum Limonum or ‘hill fort of the elms’ above the river Clain, however there have been folks right here earlier than that. The museum is filled with fascinating archaeological finds together with prehistoric limestone slabs engraved with animals, in addition to medieval collections, native historical past and fantastic artwork together with many works by ladies artists, amongst them sculptor Camille Claudel, mannequin and lover of Auguste Rodin. Tip: Ask for the Highlights leaflet in English.
With a present inhabitants of round 90,000, Poitiers is sufficiently small to really feel intimate and my tranquil base on the Hôtel de l’Europe, a part of the dependable Logis community, is ideally positioned for exploring the principle websites on foot, only a quick stroll from the Hôtel de Ville that stands behind a big café-lined sq.. With so many pedestrian streets between the mellow limestone buildings, Poitiers exudes a tangible feeling of calm.
On the highest level of town on the location of the Roman discussion board stands Notre-Dame-la-Grande, not in truth the cathedral however most likely extra well-known because of its Romanesque design, richly painted inside, and ornately carved façade courting from the 12th century.
The church is closed for main restoration work till Could 2027, however you possibly can nonetheless view the carvings by the perimeter fence and take a digital journey inside by an exhibition within the Vacationer Workplace reverse. To discover town at your personal tempo, obtain the free app, Go to Poitiers, that works with GPS as you comply with a selection of strolling routes to find heritage websites, native legends and strange tales.
In case you can’t resist the aromas and colors of a French indoor market, pop into Les Halles subsequent door to Notre-Dame, then stroll behind the Vacationer Workplace to go to the imposing Palace of the medieval Counts of Poitou and Dukes of Aquitaine. The huge ceremonial corridor was constructed within the 12th century in the course of the residence of Eleanor of Aquitaine, spouse of English Plantagenet king Henry II, after her marriage to Louis VII of France was annulled. Joan of Arc was questioned inside these partitions and the constructing was later used because the Legislation Courts. Right this moment it is without doubt one of the best examples of medieval civil structure in France with its hovering roof, embellished columns and immense fireplaces.
Then head downhill in direction of the a number of points of interest of the cathedral quarter. En route, I cease at François Frères in Grande Rue, considered one of simply 5 companies in France producing high-quality handmade umbrellas for each event and in a tempting number of types and colors. Artisan craft at its easiest.
Saint-Pierre Cathedral has hyperlinks to Eleanor and Henry too. They married in 1152 within the Romanesque church that after stood on this spot, commissioning the brand new cathedral within the 1160s and financing a stained glass window of the Crucifixion, one of many oldest surviving in France. Look out for the royal couple within the backside panel. Different highlights embrace the ceiling work of the Final Judgement, solely found in 2008 because of a leak within the whitewashed ceiling, and the carved 13th century choir stalls, the oldest in France.
Cross over Rue Jean Jaurès that hyperlinks the city centre with the river to go to Sainte-Croix Museum and the Saint-Jean Baptistery, one of many oldest surviving within the Western World. Relationship from the 5th century and altered many instances, the atmospheric inside contains giant arches, 12th century wall work and a sunken font.
Poitiers was dubbed the ‘Metropolis of 100 Spires’ and in case you like a church with a legend connected, head to Sainte-Radegonde, near the banks of the Clain. Queen of the Franks within the 6th century by a pressured marriage, Radegonde is claimed to have slain a winged dragon, the fearsome Grand’Goule or ‘Huge Mouth’ who was consuming the poor nuns of Saint-Croix Abbey. Right this moment Radegonde is patron saint of passing exams, very helpful in a pupil neighborhood like Poitiers, and a medieval painted dragon is on present in Saint-Croix!
Procuring and eating places
With the principle heritage websites concentrated across the city centre, it’s straightforward to mix Roman and Romanesque with retail and restaurant remedy, though typically the 2 go hand in hand. At Zara, contained in the Cordeliers shopping center, I discover arches from a 13th century chapel spanning the style rails, and Le Nid de Cicognes deli and café boasts arches from an previous bridge resulting in Eleanor’s Palace.
Hungry? For food-truck fare or only a riverside apéro, head to the Guingette Pictave on Ilot Tison, website of an previous sawmill on the Clain. I additionally take pleasure in a really totally different form of ambiance beneath the elegant arches of Les Archives, a gourmand restaurant inside a former Jesuit chapel connected to the Lodge Mercure. And meat-lovers ought to head to Chez Cocotte for succulent steaks from a wide range of regional cattle.
Futuroscope, Poitier’s no. 1 attraction
No go to to Poitiers is full and not using a go to to Futuroscope (futuroscope.com), a novel theme park providing over 40 points of interest and exhibits that transport guests throughout planet Earth and past. Anticipate thrilling curler coasters and immersive 4D experiences, in addition to gentler rides for youthful guests. Outdoors the park gate is Aquascope, an all-year-round water park with eight water slides and 4 themed universes. All simply 20 minutes from Poitiers by automobile, prepare or bus. Someway I feel the Romans would have permitted!
Gillian flew direct to Poitiers with Ryanair from London-Stansted. The town is 1h15 from Paris by prepare with a station within the city centre and one other at Parc du Futuroscope which is lower than 10 minutes from Poitiers through a TER line.
By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and a daily author for The Good Life France Journal and web site.
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