For an space that takes up a comparatively modest stretch of Brittany’s south coast, the Baie de Quiberon boasts some fairly highly effective statistics. Because the seagull flies, it’s barely 30 km from the mouth of the Etel river within the west to Pointe Kerpenhir within the east, however the shoreline of this fascinating space stretches for a powerful 360 km round inlets and islands, river banks and ocean shores. Gillian Thornton explores this gorgeous shoreline of Brittany…
On the waterfront
Numbering simply 24 communes, the Baie de Quiberon boasts 50 sandy seashores, 25 km of dunes, and 15 km of untamed beach, while inland, its lush, wooded inside is criss-crossed by cycle tracks, strolling trails and bridleways. An outside playground, no matter your chosen exercise.
However there’s one other aspect to this idyllic nook of the Morbihan. Prehistoric monuments are liberally sprinkled throughout Brittany however nowhere is there something to rival Les Alignements at Carnac, a brief hop inland from the seashore. Suppose menhirs. Heaps and plenty of menhirs. To avoid wasting you counting, there are greater than 3000 of those historic monuments, the bulk grouped in 4 clusters of serried strains that stretch for 4 km and canopy 40 hectares. Spectacular from any angle.
Standing stones
I bag my first menhirs throughout a guided tour by e-bike from Carnac the place I acquire my two wheels from bike rent firm A Bicyclette and meet up with genial information Alexandre from Mobilboard. Following devoted cycle tracks and the occasional quiet lane, we make common stops alongside the 5 sandy seashores of fashionable Carnac-Plage and on across the headland to the good marina at La Trinité-sur-Mer.
Then we loop inland and observe an off-road monitor into sun-dappled woodland the place a line of menhirs borders the trail at common intervals. It’s surprisingly humbling to the touch stones older than Stonehenge that have been put right here by Neolithic settlers some 6,000 years in the past. And to return throughout a single large stone within the bushes, the 6-metre Géant de Manio, close to the Kerlescan alignments. However there’s extra to return. From the highest of a restored windmill past the wooden, we take pleasure in a high-level view over the 1029 menhirs of the Kermario alignments, earlier than ending our tour at Saint-Michel Chapel, perched on an historic burial mound 12 metres excessive.
I’m staying over in Carnac at Hôtel La Licorne a brief stroll from the stylish boutiques and bustling eating places of the city centre, the place I take in the environment and mull over my day from a terrace desk at La Sultana.
Subsequent morning, I head to the Maison des Megalithes beside the Ménec alignments for an outline of those enigmatic stones, at present a part of an utility for UNESCO World Heritage standing that features Brittany’s wider prehistoric monuments. Carnac nonetheless poses a wealth of unanswered questions. What have been the stones truly for? Have been they put right here by one group of individuals on the similar time or many individuals at totally different instances? Theories and legends abound.
A public footpath runs across the perimeter fence or you possibly can be part of a motorised tour of the entire website, however the one method you possibly can stroll amongst the Ménec alignments is on one of many wonderful pre-booked excursions. One concept we study is that the stones have been positioned right here as a warning to invaders from the ocean, in an period when the shoreline was nearer than it’s now. However secretly, I hope we by no means discover out and the megaliths hold their aura.
Water throughout
Subsequent day, I take pleasure in a tranquil stroll from La Licorne via nation lanes to the headland overlooking the Quiberon Peninsula. Named after the seaside city at its tip, the Presqu’Ile de Quiberon is fairly spectacular as peninsulas go, so slim at one level you could see either side without delay.
South of Penthièvre, it fattens out sufficiently to accommodate vacation houses, strolling trails and quiet seashores, in addition to a peak-season railway, Le Tire Bouchon or ‘corkscrew’, which avoids the one highway resulting in Quiberon and all factors seawards. Exercise cranks up significantly on this upbeat little seaside city in summer season as passengers flock to ferries for the favored vacation island of Belle-Ile-en-Mer and its smaller neighbours, Houat and Hoedic.
I need to benefit from the wilder Côte Sauvage on the Atlantic aspect of the peninsula so I keep on the charming Hôtel des Deux Mers nestled in pine bushes at Saint-Pierre-Quiberon. After a relaxed night at Les Canailles, a bar-guingette within the village centre, I watch the solar set over the ocean and subsequent morning stroll the tide-washed sand earlier than breakfast. A fascinating solution to begin and end any day.
In superb summer season sunshine, I may simply spend a number of days exploring the realm. The medieval city of Auray and the close by river port of Saint-Goustan; Europe’s largest menhir at Locmariaquer beside the Golfe du Morbihan; and the ‘wild dunes’ from Gâvres to Quiberon, largest pure space on the Breton coast and categorised Grand Web site de France.
However with restricted time, I select to discover the liquid thoroughfare that divides the Baie de Quiberon from Lorient to the west. Technically it’s a ria – or drowned river mattress – stretching inland for 22 km however locals discuss with the Etel river. Decide up one of many common cruise excursions with Navix from the fishing port of Etel to see historic waterside communities reminiscent of Saint-Cado and expertise tranquil creeks, salt marshes, and dramatic currents. A distinct sort of magic in an space already infused with fable and thriller.
Discover out extra on the Baie de Quiberon Vacationer Workplace web site: baiedequiberon.co.uk
By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and a daily author for The Good Life France Journal and web site.
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