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A Day Journey From Dijon To The Auxois, The Coronary heart Of Burgundy






Welcome to the Auxois, an off-the-beaten-path nook of Burgundy not sufficient folks go to regardless that it makes for a terrific day journey from Dijon. Under I am going to inform you a bit concerning the area, and about its most fascinating culinary, cultural and historic highlights.

Not removed from Dijon, to the west of the fabled Côtes de Nuits and Côtes de Beaune vineyards within the Côte d’Or département, is the Auxois, a area of rolling hills and delicate canals, of bursting greenery fed by the waters that criss-cross the area.

From finish to finish is the Canal de Bourgogne, the area’s spine and a beautiful strategy to uncover the area – by barge, by bike or on foot (and sure, after all you possibly can drive, too).

It is a valley of farms, the place a few of France’s greatest cattle comes from, but in addition of forests, and… as soon as upon a time, vineyards, most of which have over time been destroyed by phylloxera.

That is additionally a land of deep historical past, intriguing castles and Gallo-Roman ruins, a super place to disconnect from life within the metropolis. Villages cling defensively to hilltops, as 

From a disgraced depend to a struggle victory by Caesar, get your tradition bonnet on and put together to be thrown into the historical past of France.



Today journey from Dijon is for…

Lovers of historical past, particularly Gallo-Roman historical past and the reign of Louis XIV, for cheese aficionados (there is a fantastic specialty cheese from the Auxois), admirers of gorgeous gardens, nature lovers, and anybody curious concerning the canals of Burgundy.

The most effective time to go to the Auxois is summer time, or in the course of the shoulder season.

Urged Auxois itinerary: Most important stops and sights

Semur-en-Auxois

Semur-en-Auxois, streets, Burgundy, FranceThe medieval streets of Semur-en-Auxois

In case your thought of a medieval French village includes a fortress, ramparts and slim twisty streets, you then’ve arrived. Legend has it the village was based by Hercules, deserted, and re-occupied by Germanic invaders in the course of the fifth century.

First got here the fortress after which, round it, a hamlet took form, cascading from the fort to the river under. 

Because the wars of faith ended, lots of the defenses have been destroyed, ramparts eradicated and moats remodeled into gardens.

Chateau Semur-en-Auxois, Burgundy, FranceThe château, seen from the hill throughout the river
Eglise Notre-Dame, Semur-en-Auxois, Burgundy, FranceNotre-Dame church in Semur

Semur-en-Auxois is what is known as a “pays d’artwork et d’histoire”, a land of artwork and historical past designated as necessary to France’s cultural heritage.

At the moment you possibly can stroll via its medieval gates and alongside cobblestoned streets, admiring historical properties and convents but in addition delving into science and tradition: lengthy referred to as the “little Athens of Burgundy”, savants and scientists have referred to as this city house for hundreds of years. The truth is, a visit to the eclectic municipal museum will unveil not solely work and sculpture, however a world-class assortment of catalogued fossils.

The Thirteenth-century church, Notre-Dame, is a extremely stylized Gothic construct, full with gargoyles and stained glass.

The most effective vantage factors is the Pont des Minimes, the bridge throughout the river dominated by the fortress. 

Époisses

It’s each a village and a cheese. However you will odor the cheese earlier than you see the village. Époisses is without doubt one of the most pungent French cheeses, particularly when it’s mature and at room temperature (appropriately), runny and melting. Surprisingly, although, the style is not half as sturdy because the aroma and that makes it value attempting; it additionally occurs to be scrumptious.

When within the village of Époisses, simply 15km/9mi from Semur, first go to the château and church, however then head straight to Berthaut to purchase some cheese – or no less than to go searching. Beware in the event you’re headed to Paris, nevertheless: this cheese is so fragrant it is apparently banned on the capital’s public transport system. When you’d slightly style than carry, ask for it to spherical out your restaurant meal.

Epoisses cheeseÉpoisses cheese, in all its splendour. Picture courtesy Côte-d’Or Tourisme © P. MAUPETIT

Flavigny-sur-Ozerain

This village belongs to the community referred to as the “most lovely villages in France“, and has a pleasant jumble of historical streets and alleyways which have been magnificently preserved or restored.

As you stroll round, the village would possibly begin wanting acquainted: that’s as a result of it was used because the backdrop for the film, Chocolat. The truth is, the small chapel of the Eighth-century abbey within the village was restored courtesy of the movie crew, in alternate for services throughout taking pictures.

Village of Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, Burgundy, France

The welcoming stone homes are nonetheless lived in, and if it is open, cease by La Grange for lunch. Sit outdoors and benefit from the comings and goings alongside the small sq.. The restaurant is hyper native, with producers doing the precise cooking, together with what appeared like all of the family members. Here is extra about Flavigny.

oeufs en meuretteThese are oeufs en meurette, a neighborhood specialty: poached eggs, with garlic and herbs, and a thick wine sauce (and a few potatoes au gratin, after all!)
anise vending machine, FlavignyAnise merchandising machine

Les Anis de Flavigny

While you go to the village, proper on the entrance you will discover a sweet manufacturing facility! These are the candies my grandmother used to like, and which have survived since maybe way back to Roman occasions : tiny, crunchy balls of sugar-coated anise seeds.

An historical crypt is a part of the advanced, and you will get to see how these candies are made: large rotating vats gently add layer upon layer of sugar. They arrive in lots of flavours, from lemon to liquorice. My favorite? A toss-up between violet and rose.

The little museum that abuts the manufacturing facility is a gem: it is full of historical past, outdated paperwork, however most enjoyable of all, uncommon Nineteenth-century contraptions, like an anise merchandising machine for the Parisian metro. Discover out extra right here.

MuseoParc Alesia

Within the yr 52 BCE, Julius Caesar fought two decisive battles in opposition to the irrepressible Gauls. The primary was at Gergovia, in Central France – the Gauls received that battle.

However the second was right here at Alésia, and Caesar subdued the Gauls in what would change into the Gauls’ final stand. From right here on in, Rome would unfold its tradition throughout the land.

Ruins at Alesia, BurgundyA tiny a part of the ruins at Alésia, the final stand of Vercingétorix, chief of the Gauls. Picture courtesy Côte-d’Or Tourisme © R. KREBEL

The historical past of the battle, in addition to that of the Gauls within the area, is superbly showcased within the MuséoParc Alésia, an interactive museum a couple of kilometers from the precise web site.

Historical past is stored alive with re-enactments annually, Romans combating Gauls on the top of summer time (sweaty armour included). The reveals are described in nice element and the museum is a crucial supply of data for these of us curious concerning the historical past of the Gauls.

You will spend 2.5 hours visiting these websites, about 1.5 hours for the museum, and hour attending to and visiting the ruins.

Château de Bussy-Rabutin 

Depend Bussy-Rabutin was a revered army chief and courtier at Versailles, throughout that treasured time when Louis XIV turned Versailles into the middle of his universe.

Bussy-Rabutin chateau, Burgundy

However the depend had a turbulent persona, falling out and in of affection and appearing out in extra to the purpose of attracting the king’s consideration. A number of untoward undertakings (some sacrilegious, some merely lascivious) landed him first in jail on the Bastille, and eventually into exile on this château.

The extraordinary château of Bussy-Rabutin is the product of these years of exile, and as you discover its hallways and rooms, you will be overpowered by a variety of feelings, the identical ones Bussy-Rabutin undoubtedly felt beas he laboured to repair up his rural house: loss, rejection, love, jealousy, irony.

Visiting the grounds, the (outstanding) gardens and the château ought to take about 2 hours.

Extra locations to see across the Auxois

  • The Abbaye de Fontenay, constructed 9 centuries in the past, is the world’s oldest preserved Cistercian abbey. It’s simply over an hour’s drive from Dijon, an distinctive web site protected below UNESCO’s World Heritage Record. 
  • For one thing actually offbeat, contemplate the Fête des Sorcières, the witches’ competition, held each two years within the village of Mâlain. In the course of the seventeenth century, the village was the location of witch trials. Apparently, some villagers nonetheless declare descendance from these authentic witches. The competition will get into the spirit of all of it, with loads of leisure, meals, and costumes, to not point out legends and tales. (Here is their Fb web page – it is in French).





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