Capitaine is a contemporary bistro tucked right into a quiet Marais avenue simply south of the Place des Vosges. The decor is pure (Brittany?) bistro, with naked picket tables, moleskine banquettes, and diverse maritime kitsch. The menu seems at first look to match this bistro vibe, however look carefully: duck breast is dotted with prik pao sauce, uncooked oysters are garnished with shredded carrot, chile and peanuts, and fraise de veau (an intestinal membrane) carries the flavors of mapo tofu.
These accents make extra sense if you notice that Capitaine is the second tackle by Levha sisters, whose restaurant Le Servan (one in every of our 50 Favourite Eating places for Fall) was one of many first bistronomic spots in Paris to unapologetically rejoice these jap components. Chef Baptiste Day composes intriguing dishes that change with the seasons and have completely cooked fish and meat (throughout my three visits). Whereas it has by no means imparted a way of urgency, as in “you actually should go,” I’m glad to know that Capitaine is there.
4, deadlock Guéménée, 75004
Open Wednesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Open Tuesday for dinner solely
Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations on-line or at +33 1 44 61 11 76
OUR PHOTOS OF CAPITAINE
IN OTHER WORDS
L’Specific (2019) writes that “actual gourmets” who “don’t let themselves get led by the excitement” know that Capitaine deserves its stellar repute.
Restos sur le Grill (2018) praises the nice costs and “beneficiant, flavorful delicacies” at this restaurant, although Arnaud Morisse additionally criticizes the hake Colbert, which oddly avoids all the codes of the standard dish.
Simon Says (2017) begins issues off with a rant. “How the hell can new bistros ever hope to face out?” writes François Simon, highlighting the varied methods during which these eating places all resemble each other. Whereas he provides Capitaine credit score for its high quality, he nonetheless locations it inside the class of “interchangeable” bistros at “aggressive costs.” “Now,” he writes, “it’ll simply need to persist.”
