Foie gras melting into duck confit at Au Fil des Saisons (picture Meg Zimbeck)
Foie gras could also be banned in California and 14 different European nations, however in France the custom continues to be going robust. In reality, the fattened livers of geese and geese are protected by legislation as a part of the nation’s cultural and gastronomic heritage, and the French ate greater than 8,000 tons of foie gras final yr.
Duck, Duck, Goose
The overwhelming majority of foie gras is made out of duck (canard), and it’s significantly extra reasonably priced than the small quantity (lower than 10%) made out of goose (oie). That’s as a result of geese take longer to mature and require extra feed to fatten their livers. Duck foie gras is taken into account to be extra robustly flavored and fewer refined than goose, but it surely’s higher suited to excessive temperature preparations like searing as a result of it comprises much less fats.
Terrine of foie gras from L’Ami Louis (picture Julien Tort)
Numerous Foie Gras Types
Foie gras is mostly cooked at a really low temperature to make a spreadable terrine or pâté, however it could actually take many different kinds. The organ, for that’s what it most principally is, could be flash seared and served alone with a condiment or as an enhancement to different components.
Seared foie gras with strawberries at Vivant Desk (picture Meg Zimbeck)
The uncooked and the cooked: Foie gras that’s uncooked (cru) could be seared and served heat. Semi-cooked (mi-cuit) foie gras has been poached at a low temperature and is prized for its silky texture. It has a brief shelf-life of three months in comparison with absolutely cooked (cuit) and pasteurized foie gras, which could be saved in tins or jars for years.
Foie gras torchon with boozy cherries from Frenchie (picture Barbra Austin)
Composition: Foie gras entier comprises one or two entire lobes of liver, whether or not cooked in a jar or in a towel (au torchon). A bloc of foie gras comprises many smaller livers molded collectively. Each are cooked (if not cru) with solely salt, pepper and a “noble” alcohol like Cognac or Armagnac. A bloc of foie gras with morceaux (bits) comprises many items of liver pureed collectively and emulsified with water. It should include solely 50% precise foie gras if goose and solely 30% if duck.
Accompaniments
Foie gras with shaved beets, radish & inexperienced apple at Kei (picture Meg Zimbeck)
Foie gras is very fatty and perked up by any accompaniment that gives sweetness or acidity. Inexperienced apple, which brings each of those, is a pairing that we’ve seen in plenty of eating places these days. Purple fruits like cherry and fig are frequent. Additionally scrumptious are savory accompaniments that add each saltiness and sweetness. Alongside these traces, eating places are pairing eel (smoked or not) with foie gras, however onion jam (confit d’oignons) is just a little simpler to tug off for these indulging at dwelling.
For those who’re serving a jam or fruit with some sweetness, plain toasted brioche is the most effective bread choice. For those who’re forgoing any accompaniments, serve your foie gras with bread that has some sweetness like ache d’epices (honeyed spice bread) or a bread full of raisins or figs. Serving each a candy bread and jam may very well be thought of overkill.
That candy accompaniment may take a liquid kind: the traditional pairing is after all Sauternes, however the candy fortified wines of Banyuls and Coteaux du Layon are additionally good, and significantly cheaper. I additionally like a Jurançon or late harvest Gewurtztraminer.
Foie gras and eel at Septime (picture Meg Zimbeck)
The place to Purchase in Paris
La Grande Èpicerie has a whole case devoted to foie gras throughout the holidays. So does Franprix (an inexpensive grocery store), for that matter.
For those who want to patronize the little(r) guys, a couple of choices for home made embody:
- Arnaud Nicolas – an MOF charcutier promoting his creations for carry-out and in addition in a restaurant setting
- Le Garde Manger – a store close to the marché d’Aligre promoting foie gras from a small-production farm in Alsace
- Gilles Verot – close to Saint-Placide in Saint-Germain, promoting slices of foie gras terrine layered with truffles or figs
- Maison Guyard – a traiteur at 42 rue Verneuil within the posh seventh promoting home made terrines alongside jars and tins