Uncover the pickled-in-the previous village of Pézenas sits between Beziers and Montpellier within the Hérault division within the Occitanie area in southern France.
It’s arduous to beat strolling via the charming cobblestone alleys of Pézenas on a sunny summer season’s day. The slender winding streets, flanked by tall honey-coloured stone buildings, with these pale inexperienced shutters which might be so evocative of the south of France, are filled with impartial retailers. Alongside artisan crafts similar to leatherware and pottery or the native Berlingots sweets and petits pâtés de Pézenas pastries, you’ll discover art work, homewares, items, jewelry, clothes and extra. I problem you to stroll these streets with out ducking into a minimum of one boutique and coming away with a beautiful memento!
Place Gambetta, the primary sq., is a full of life spot with cafés and a fountain – after I was final there, they have been establishing stage for the weekend’s leisure. Eating places tucked away in fairly corners of the city or with massive bustling terraces are the proper place to linger over a meal or a cup of espresso or glass of wine whereas individuals watching. You’ll be able to simply spend a soothing day right here simply wandering round, shopping the retailers and admiring the structure. However as these historic buildings counsel, Pézenas has a captivating previous and its story is written on the facades.
Various historical past of Pezenas
You’ll discover most of the buildings have massive burgundy doorways; possibly you’ll catch a glimpse of a vaulted stone courtyard past. Search for and also you’ll see thrives of carved stone and wrought-iron balconies. These weren’t the standard properties of the poor; they hail from Pézenas’ golden age, when commerce was thriving and so have been the city’s inhabitants.
Having beforehand existed as a Roman outpost, a medieval stronghold and an essential commerce centre, dwelling to prestigious annual festivals, it was in the course of the Renaissance that the city actually got here into its personal, and most of the most lovely buildings date from this time.
In 1456, Pézenas turned the seat of the governors of Languedoc, the political capital of the area. A affluent interval adopted, as evidenced by the hôtels particuliers – grand townhouses – that also stay right now. Constructed within the 16th and 17th centuries by rich retailers and nobles, they embrace the Hôtel de Lacoste, Hôtel de Malibran and Hôtel d’Alfonce. Massive mullioned home windows, grand stone staircases and inner courtyards have been typical, and a few have lovely gardens. At the moment they make ideally suited areas for cultural occasions and boutiques in addition to sought-after non-public properties – in a single, the Musée de Vulliod St-Germain showcases Pézenas’ historical past, whereas within the Hôtel de Lacoste I visited an exquisite silk store, full with historic loom. Guided excursions of the city usually embrace stops at hôtels particuliers, and through September’s European Heritage Days some are open to the general public.
The city was dwelling to the formidable Christian knights, the Templars, though they left much less of a long-lasting mark. On Rue des Chevaliers, on a constructing with a powerful, corbelled turret, an indication proclaims a ‘former 17th-century commandery constructed on the positioning of the 11th-century Templar home’. Reverse, the imposing Église Collegiale Saint-Jean, largely constructed within the 17th/18th century, occupies a part of the positioning of a fancy constructed by the Knights Templar within the twelfth century – head contained in the church to admire the stained-glass home windows and luxurious organ.
Though the medieval partitions which as soon as surrounded the outdated city now not exist, you may see an authentic gate, the Porte Faugères, an essential remnant of the city’s defensive previous. Past it are the broader boulevards of the 17th and 18th centuries. Inside, the outdated city is now pedestrianised however as soon as carts would have trundled via the medieval streets, which tended to be crooked or irregular – look out for a slanted doorway on the Hôtel d’Agde de Fondousse; the arched stone encompass was sharply angled to provide entry to the courtyard via an equally slanted passageway.
I really like recognizing the ‘mascarons’ of Pézenas – keystones with a sculpted, half-relief face, courting from the 18th-century on, representing themes such because the 4 seasons, historical gods and strange figures. Over 100 of those characterful faces watch passersby from the partitions of the tall townhouses.
Molière city
You’ll be able to’t speak about Pézenas with out mentioning Molière, France’s celebrated 17th-century playwright and actor – certainly, it’s usually referred to as the ‘Molière City’. So, it could come as some shock to listen to that the revered wordsmith didn’t hail from Pézenas, though he did spend time right here, below the patronage of the Prince of Conti (then the governor of Languedoc, primarily based in Pézenas).
Within the 1650s, Molière travelled via southern France together with his theatrical troupe. Pézenas was thriving and its rich residents demanded leisure, so Molière staged performs for the the Aristocracy and townspeople. The inspiration for a few of his well-known characters are stated to be drawn from individuals he noticed in Pézenas.
Molière later moved to Paris the place his profession flourished, however the city continues to have a good time its connection to him, with statues and plaques and performances all year long, together with the Molière Competition in June. The Scénovision Molière museum provides an interactive multi-media present; it’s on the higher flooring of the vacationer workplace, the Hôtel Peyrat, which as soon as housed the city jail. The custom of theatre continues right now, and the small however superbly preserved 18th-century Théâtre de Pézenas is among the oldest in France.
Though Pézenas’ political standing declined within the 17th century when the governors moved to Montpellier, the realm continued to thrive because of its vineyards and Pézenas turned a hub for the wine commerce.
Previous and new
Alongside Pézenas celebration of its heritage, it has additionally carved one thing of a distinct segment for itself within the antiques commerce. There’s one thing to please each type of brocanteur, from wonderful furnishings to flea market finds, delicate bedlinen, vibrant 70s gadgets, classic clothes, large stone urns for the backyard and even a whole wood and glass Artwork Deco shopfront – I used to be tempted to start out a enterprise simply to make use of it, till I appeared on the price ticket!
If this piques your curiosity, chances are you’ll need to coincide your go to with the twice-yearly Foire à la Brocante (Might and October). This large antiques market attracts individuals from far and large.
In the event you desire trendy masterpieces, make your technique to the Maison des Métiers d’Artwork, the place you may select from up to date creations by 150 craftsmen, housed in a lovely 17th-century constructing.
After all, any French city price its salt has an impressive market and Pézenas isn’t any exception – its Saturday market is alleged to be the very best within the area, taking on the entire of the city centre with a profusion of stalls promoting contemporary produce, native crafts, flowers, clothes and extra.
That is one city the place you’ll by no means get bored! As a cultural hub, Pézenas has a number of museums, together with one devoted to doorways, and one filled with classic toys (Musée de Jouet). Then there are all of the festivals and occasions. In summer season, the Estivales de Pézenas night markets characteristic dwell music, native delicacies and wine tastings, whereas in late winter the Carnaval de Pézenas is a vibrant cornucopia of parades, costumes and conventional celebrations.
Pézenas additionally makes a super base to discover the broader area. From day journeys to the seashores of the Med to wine tasting within the native vineyards or strolling and biking within the countryside, there’s lots to maintain you occupied.
You could possibly come to Pézenas and easily get pleasure from a number of hours exploring the charming streets, retailers and eating places, however I might advocate absolutely immersing your self on this most charming of southern cities, and taking a stroll via the previous.
Karen Tait is a contract journalist and editor with a penchant for France!
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