Deal with: 14, rue Lobineau, 75006
Hours: Open on a regular basis from midday to 11PM.
Phone: +33 1 44 27 07 97 (No reservations)
Fb / Instagram
When he opened the unique, standing-room solely L’Avant Comptoir in 2009, bistronomy chef Yves Camdeborde famously declared his intention to finish the “tyranny of the desk.” L’Avant Comptoir du Marché, the third and largest L’Avant Comptoir idea opened in 2016, represents a truce. Occupying a luminous nook within the lined Marché Saint Germain, L’Avant Comptoir du Marché boasts excessive tables each inside and on the skin terrace. Bracketing the eating room is the titular comptoir, lined with bar seats, for as soon as.
What a distinction excessive ceilings and enough
respiration room could make to a restaurant expertise. Even the kitchen appears to
profit from larger freedom of motion. Dishes are better-executed, like a
vivid, feta-bedecked tartare within the depths of which lay slivers of silvery
anchovy, a counterintuitive however splendid accompaniment to an unsulfured Domaine
de l’European Chardonnay.
The menu is far the identical as that on the authentic L’Avant Comptoir, augmented with a smattering of dishes from L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer. Two fats bits of marinated salmon are dabbed with wasabi and wrapped in nori, sashimi by one other identify. Camdeborde’s authentic iconoclastic tapas hit, a candy and savory blood pudding macaron, returns right here, as does the landslide of high quality charcuterie acquainted from the unique L’Avant Comptoir.
For these aware of the cattle-car tapas-bar confines of the opposite two L’Avant Comptoirs, a meal at L’Avant Comptoir du Marché feels indulgent. One partakes in the identical trinity of artisanal hams, novelty offal preparations, and pure wines, solely this time, one has the area to savor them. Crowds arrive at night time, however even at busier occasions, L’Avant Comptoir du Marché doesn’t get wedged to the identical airless shoulder-to-shoulder depth as its brethren bars by Odéon. It’s a restaurant constructed to successfully serve the crowds it receives.
Any of the L’Avant Comptoir bars are enjoyable if one occurs to need a fast snack within the neighborhood. L’Avant Comptoir du Marché is the one value making a particular journey – a spot the place the size of the location lastly matches that Camdeborde’s ambition.
Avant Comptoir du Marché in Photos
In Different Phrases
The Guardian (2017) astutely observes that the outside of the Marché
Saint Germain has turn into “extra mall than marché” (due to the presence of
Uniqlo and an Apple Retailer), earlier than dubbing L’Avant Comptoir du Marché
“irresistible” for its quite a few glass pour wines and the “ingenious combos”
from its kitchen.
Not Consuming Poison In Paris (2017) says “There’s a heroic irony how Camdeborde
employs all of the shlock arsenal of industrialised mass restaurateurism within the
service of promoting artisanal merchandise: glorious pork and pure wine.”
Le Fooding (2016) says “you may depend on every little thing being scrumptious”
at L’Avant Comptoir du Marché.
Time Out (2016) cites Yves Cambeborde as its “favourite southwestern
chef” and lauds L’Avant Comptoir, calling it “a love letter to pork.” The
assessment recounts Camdeborde’s amusing reply to a diner who requested a
vegetarian dish.
Le Figaro
(2016) proclaims the opening of L’Avant Comptoir du Marché, repeating the
curious conceptual distinction, totally imperceptible in actuality, between the
authentic L’Avant Comptoir which Camdeborde is now calling “de la Terre,” and L’Avant Comptoir du Marché. The 2
institution’s menu choices are virtually completely the identical.
François Simon (2016) instantly lauded L’Avant Comptoir because the success
of the 12 months in 2016, evaluating stated success to dropping a match right into a
haystack.
