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Le Chardenoux | Paris by Mouth


Tackle: 1 Rue Jules Vallès, 75011
Hours: Open on a regular basis of the week for lunch and dinner. 
Phone: +33 (0)1 43 71 49 52
Web site / Fb / Instagram

Cyril Lignac thinks we’re nitwits. That’s the reason his current replace of historic Eleventh-arrondissement restaurant Le Chardenoux serves ditzy, overpriced nightclub meals underneath the guise of a swank bistrot. That’s the solely believable rationalization for a way the bearded, perpetually grinning chef identified for his routine TV appearances in France can lie about it so boldly.

Scallops with frisée

For “over 100 years,” Le Chardenoux’s web site proclaims, “the restaurant has saved its genuine values with revolutionary seafood delicacies.” The truth is, till reopening after refurbishment in January 2019, Le Chardenoux lengthy served a reliable mixture of bistrot standbys, ennobled by a gorgeously preserved décor. Newly refreshed with mosaic flooring and a leafy ceiling motif, Le Chardenoux now resembles a high-end lodge restaurant, its self-conscious stylish anchored solely by the unique pink marble bar basis.

The menu, too, has been remodeled. Le Chardenoux is now a wannabe uncooked bar, enjoying catch-up to close by seafood success tales Clamato and L’Ecailler du Bistrot. The menu is split into themes: “shellfish & crustaceans,” “uncooked and marinated,” “sea and land.” The primary two sections function appetizers, whereas the third includes putative foremost programs that show too small to warrant the excellence. Of your complete menu, solely two mains – a burger and a hen saté – derive from land, making Le Chardenoux a complete washout for anybody who dislikes fish. It additionally begs the query of why the restaurant’s inconsiderate, nearly fully standard wine listing is predominantly crimson. 

Oh wait, it’s as a result of we’re nitwits. We pair mussels
gratin with Côte-Rôtie. 

Utter numskulls that we’re, we’re hoodwinked by pseudo-innovations like a 16€ appetizer of “crispy sushi,” which seems to be 4 strips of uncooked salmon laid on small bricks of fried rice. (When Jiro goals of sushi, that is his nightmare.) Mind-dead and hungry, we lurch for a foremost course consisting of a pair of lobster rolls the dimensions of Twinkies , which the younger server truthfully notes comprise not simply lobster, however shrimp and avocado as effectively – an innovation that leaves us with practically not one of the star ingredient. Lignac is assured we’re dumb sufficient to pay 27€ for this; in spite of everything, three tender scallops in a fantastic thai mousse beneath a number of scraps of frisée lettuce – an excellent smaller foremost course – runs at 29€.

Saint-Nectaire and millefeuille

By the point the terribly miserly cheese course arrives – an ice-cold slice of Saint-Nectaire so skinny it may very well be used as a bookmark – even the slowest amongst us begins to suspect we’re being had. We’re consuming a menu of just about unprecedented rapacity. How might Lignac do that to us? Might or not it’s that he’s drunk on the success of his costly, B+ pastry store on the alternative aspect of the road? Or on the unlikelier success of his odd sizzling chocolate store on the nook? Isn’t he involved that the virulent cynicism on show at Le Chardenoux would possibly have an effect on the reputations of his different companies? Maybe we nitwits ought to simply abandon him en masse.


Le Chardenoux in Photos

What Folks Are Saying About Le Chardenoux

Le
Monde
 (2019)
Meals critic and serial abuser of the second-person perspective Marie Aline right here
employs her literary schtick with barely extra grace than typical, skewering the
new iteration of Le Chardenoux for its lack of generosity. “Le Chardenoux has
grow to be a restaurant for individuals who are now not hungry,” is her damning
verdict. 

Vogue (2019) heartily
recommends Le Chardenoux, saying “the whole lot is scrumptious” and praising the
“melting sashimi.” However then once more Vogue is just not a meals journal. 

Alexander
Lobrano
 (2019)
is more durable on the Le Chardenoux’s new décor than its new seafood-themed menu. He
compares the previous to Kim Kardashian, whereas as regards to the “good”
delicacies he merely muses that “meals developments have by no means been extra worldwide.”
He notes the value of the fish for 2 is “eye-watering.” 

Le
Figaro Madame
 (2019) delivers a positively Orwellian denial of
actuality about Le Chardenoux, praising the menu for its “generosity.”



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