NOW CLOSED
Daniel Rose’s 2016 takeover of this beloved establishment was motivated by love and respect for its historical past (learn extra about that right here), and for the form of traditional bistro cooking that appears to be disappearing from Paris. That historical past is well-represented by a menu that features an astounding bouillon, boudin Basque aux pommes, and blanquette de veau. These are scrumptious, however they’re hardly the type of fare one desires to eat whereas standing up or perching on stools within the main-floor bar. It’s additionally not what one desires to eat in the course of the sweltering summer season months, and but the menu doesn’t appear to adapt to the seasons in any manner.
Chez la Vieille in 2010, earlier than a collection of refurbishments
The upstairs eating room is much extra comfy, however it’s posh and quiet and feels just like the unsuitable place to be. I’d a lot fairly dangle within the bar, the place pictures and design parts from previous Paris are nonetheless on show, however I discover myself wishing for extra of the form of hors d’oeuvres that Rose promised can be on provide within the bar, just like the delectable rabbit kidney toasts pictured beneath. In actuality, the menu is identical whether or not one eats upstairs (too quiet) or downstairs (whereas standing).
Rabbit kidneys on toast
With just some tweaks – an expanded number of wines by the glass and extra nibbles for the bar – Chez la Vieille may very well be an actual hit and an everyday hang-out. For now, it’s an enthralling however not important place to seize a drink earlier than dinner while you’re close to the Louvre.
Sensible Data
Handle: 1 Rue Bailleul, 75001
Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner. Closed Sunday and Monday.
Phone: +33 1 42 60 15 78
Web site On-line Reserving Fb Instagram
Chez la Vieille in pictures
What persons are saying
Alexander Lobrano (2016) says this reopening is “superb information for anybody who loves the earthy voluptuousness of genuine old school French bistro cooking as a lot as I do,” praising chef Oleg Olexin’s duck terrine that “shot me again by way of time in essentially the most ruthless of the way, since this delicate however agency slab of minced duck meat, organs and fats has the form of low-ball barnyard funk that Madame Biasin at all times made her signature.”
Le Monde (2016) François Simon calls the cooking “opulent and beneficiant” and loves the time-warp dish of foie gras with lentils and the “groove and swing” of the blanquette de veau.
TimeOut (2016) raves about creamy bulots with home mayo, however says the true star is the blanquette de veau, served straight in a Staub cocotte with a sauce so good they completed each drop. They discover there to be an actual sincerity within the chef’s strategy, each within the menu and within the environment.
Le Fooding (2016) says “we returned and, similar to within the good previous days, entered by way of the door that’s additionally utilized by residents of the constructing…. we have been handed a fairly massive menu within the spirit of a bygone period: sardine rillettes, herring with potato salad and artisanal charcuterie from Franche-Comté for the copious appetizers; coquelet à la diable, veal kidneys in a Brive mustard sauce for the primary programs.”
Le Figaro (2016) fee this amongst their favourite blanquettes de veau in Paris.
Associated Articles
