Charente is a land of contemporary air, little visitors, tranquillity, and delightful countryside. And let’s not overlook the wildlife corresponding to deer, wild boar, pink foxes, barn owls, bats, and badgers, to call however a number of. The division of Charente is located within the South-eastern space of the Poitou-Charentes. Now generally known as the Nouvelle Aquitaine, it’s slightly slice of paradise in rural France. It lies to the northwest of the better-known area of the Dordogne.
In the summertime this space is solely wonderful. Fields of sunflowers flip all the pieces a lovely shade of yellow and appear to go on for miles. The nice and cozy balmy evenings are made for ingesting apéritifs and watching the solar set. Life actually doesn’t get significantly better.
However to correctly showcase Charente in all its historic glory we have to go deeper. Additional than locations corresponding to Angouleme, the capital metropolis of the division, or Cognac, the brandy area identified worldwide. We have to have a look at the opposite lesser-known cities and villages. Those steeped in historical past the place you’re feeling such as you’ve stepped again in time and right into a bygone period.
These locations have tales all of their very own courting again to Roman occasions. And in some circumstances, even the legendary tales of the mediaeval Knights Templar. For our journey again in time we’ll be taking a digital stroll via 5 lovely cities within the coronary heart of the Charente.
The Market City of Ruffec
Sat on the Lien River Ruffec is a picturesque market city courting again to Roman occasions. Strolling up into the center of the city you’ll see the bustling market sq. the place weekly markets are held on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Right here you possibly can sit and luxuriate in espresso and cake watching the world go by.
Nonetheless, Ruffec is steeped in historical past and the place the Workplace de Tourisme now stands was the outdated citadel and stronghold. The preserve which dominated the city from the late 900’s, shaped part of the fortifications defending Ruffec from outdoors assault.
As you look down, you’ll see Place du Piolet, a fairly little sq. that appears harmless sufficient. Nonetheless, throughout the Revolution it was the positioning of the Guillotine. Many noble bourgeois and peasants met their loss of life in that sq., as Ruffec was a hotbed of violence throughout this time.
However what actually fascinates me is how Ruffec bought its title. Now there’s some debate over which of those is true, and sadly there isn’t a definitive proof for both. I’ll allow you to be the choose.
The primary story comes from the truth that In Roman days Ruffec sat on the outskirts of a deep forest, Forêt de Ruffec. This forest was house to a particular sort of pink oak generally known as Chêne Rouvre. Each phrases are Celtic in origin, and it’s thought that is the place Ruffec might have derived its title.
However it may simply have been from a Romanised Gaul named Rufus, who was mentioned to have owned property within the space. The title itself actually means pink headed man. Redheads weren’t frequent amongst the Romans, so it’s thought his land was nicknamed “Crimson-Headed one’s place”.
Which one do I believe is extra possible? Personally, I’m rooting for Rufus the pink headed one.
The Historic City of Aigre
Sitting on the outdated Route Royale d’Espagne, Aigre is a city with an extended and eventful historical past. Surrounded by many small streams and rivers, these had been most likely chargeable for its title in early occasions. Agria, because it was identified within the twelfth century, meant “on the water meadows”. It’s even rumoured that Marie de’ Medici, the second spouse of King Henry IV of France, stayed in Aigre in 1619.
As you look above the city, within the route of Cognac, you’ll see big sweeps of gorgeous countryside, thick with vines. The views are very good, which most likely inspired the Romans to construct the magnificent theatre at Les Bouchauds.
However it’s on the banks of the river Aume operating via the city, the place Charles Gautier based his Cognac distillery in 1644, within the watermill. His grandson Louis Gautier went on to develop the Cognac commerce round 1700 with Jacquette Brochet, daughter of Aigre winegrowers. Shifting onto extra fashionable occasions in 1992 their X.O. Gold Cognac was voted the world’s best.
The key to their success? Apparently, the water that laps on the cellars of their warehouses imparts a particular aroma, bouquet, and smoothness that may’t be discovered elsewhere.
True or false? Who is aware of nevertheless it’s a narrative that Cognac Gautier are nonetheless satisfied of and can fortunately inform all who hear.
The Mediaeval City of Nanteuil-en-Vallee
Pronounced “Nan – toy” this gorgeous village is a favorite with vacationers because it’s recognised as one in every of France’s ‘petite cité de caractère’ or ‘small city of character’. It’s an actual combine of homes with some half-timbered and a few in stone. Many have been renovated however haven’t misplaced their unique allure.
You’ll additionally discover not one, however two church buildings, together with an exquisite manor home (the Manoir de Aizecq) that dates to the sixteenth century. And as if that wasn’t sufficient you possibly can nonetheless see the outdated village washhouse, bread oven, and stone fountain. The latter being the supply of water for the village till nicely into the late twentieth century.
However that isn’t all there’s to this lovely village. It’s additionally house to the twelfth century Benedictine Abbey of Notre-Dame de Nanteuil, which has loved a chequered historical past. The present stays had been constructed on the ruins of the unique eighth century abbey, which was based by King Charlemagne again in 780. If partitions may speak it might inform many tales.
Pilgrims travelling the pilgrimage path to Santiago de Compostela in Spain would cease off right here to relaxation. There have been many relaxation factors like this all inside 1 mile or so of one another to assist weary travellers make the journey.
Burnt to the bottom as soon as by the Normans and twice by the English it was lastly dissolved by the bishop of Poitiers in 1770. Then destroyed fully throughout the Revolution.
Legend has it that Charlemagne introduced again a chunk of the Holy Cross to Nanteuil, and his corpse was buried within the Treasury, which kinds a part of the Abbey. We’ll by no means know the reality behind this legend, nevertheless it definitely has me intrigued.
The Fairy-tale Village of Verteuil
If it’s slightly little bit of French magic you’re after, then a visit to Verteuil ought to undoubtedly be on the record. You’ll really feel such as you’ve stepped proper into the pages of a youngsters’s storybook. The Chateau dominates the panorama from almost each angle and appears like one thing out of a fairy story.
Initially constructed again within the twelfth century it was rebuilt by the well-known Rochefoucauld household within the fifteenth century. Till just lately, it was open to the general public and even hosted weddings and personal occasions. Nonetheless, it was offered to Austrian businessman Georg Thaler in 2021, and is now a personal residence. Fortunately that doesn’t cease you admiring from afar and appreciating the construction and structure.
However that’s not all that Verteuil has to supply. Sat on the riverbank is an historical moulin (mill) which has been transformed right into a restaurant. With picturesque views that actually take your breath away, it’s the proper spot to get pleasure from a glass of wine or have lunch.
As you cross the bridge and stroll in the direction of the primary sq., you’ll see the Rue du Temple in your left resulting in the Church of Saint-Médard. This avenue was once extraordinarily muddy because of animals being herded up there. So to verify the women attending church didn’t get their attire soiled, a set of steps generally known as ‘Chemin des Dames’ was constructed for them to make use of. These elevated them above the grime and saved them clear as they made their approach to church.
For me although, it’s the more moderen tales which have me hooked. Throughout World Warfare II Verteuil was occupied by the Germans and this noticed many households activate one another. The village was break up between these supporting the Resistance and people who supported the Germans.
One story I used to be instructed by a neighborhood resident was that of a Jewish household hidden within the cellars of one of many homes simply off the sq.. They’d been hiding there for a number of months undetected, however one way or the other phrase bought out. The Gestapo raided the home, fortunately although somebody warned them simply in time they usually managed to flee. You may nonetheless see the butt marks of the rifles the place they’d smashed them on the wood ground to verify there was no one hidden beneath. I can solely think about how terrifying that should have been for the household, and people hidden away beneath.
The Historic City of La Rochefoucauld
If it’s historical past you’re after then my remaining providing is a go to to La Rochefoucauld, ‘the pearl of the Angoumois’. For over 1000 years the La Rochefoucauld household, a part of the French the Aristocracy, have been the house owners of The Chateau de la Rochefoucauld.
Standing above the Tardoire River its illustrious historical past is on show all through. The salon libraries include over 18,000 volumes, and the Treasure Room has a set of 250 household letters courting again to the seventeenth century.
As you discover additional into the chateau, you’ll be handled to structure spanning seven centuries, together with the renaissance spiral staircase, mentioned to be designed by Leonardo da Vinci himself. This magnificent construction was commissioned by Anne de Polignac together with her husband François II de La Rochefoucauld round 1520. It earned the chateau a spot in historical past with the staircase being one of many best achievements within the French Renaissance. As you make your manner down the 108 steps, its fantastically twisted centre will take your breath away.
The kitchens, which you’ll be able to nonetheless see, are completely big with many large pots nonetheless on show. They provide you some concept of simply what number of servants would have been required to run a chateau of this dimension.
The dungeon, the one part left from the eleventh century, was constructed to showcase the household’s energy in opposition to that of the Rely of Angoulême. A bit of enjoyable piece of trivia highlighting how politics and structure mix within the historical past of the chateau.
However my favorite half by far is the costume up space. Right here you possibly can select a mediaeval costume and relieve occasions passed by turning into a personality from historical past.
Kylie Lang is a copywriter, quiz funnel strategist and blogger at Life in Rural France. She moved to the Charente simply over six years to reside the agricultural life and has by no means seemed again. Ever questioned which a part of SW France you’re finest suited to? Take the Dwelling the French Dream Quiz
