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The fascinating historical past of French Toile de Jouy


Toile de Jouy
Toile de Jouy was awarded the “Manufacture Royale” title in 1783

You might not have heard of Toile de Jouy, however the likelihood is you’ll recognise it. Printed material which most frequently options whimsical nation scenes in a single color on a white background, it was created within the 1700s in a village close to Paris, grew to become a best-selling icon and stays a timeless cloth – the epitome of French savoir faire says Janine Marsh as she explores the fascinating historical past of French Toile de Jouy.

Historical past of French Toile de Jouy

Toile de Jouy actually means ‘material from Jouy’, referring to the village of Jouy-en-Josas, within the Eure-et-Loir division, just some miles from the Palace of Versailles. And it’s right here that you just’ll discover the fascinating Musée de la Toile de Jouy which is devoted to its extraordinary historical past.

The story actually begins within the 1600s when the East India Firm ferried vibrant cotton Indian textiles to Europe. Printed in vibrant, daring colors, it was arduous sporting, simple to clean and low-cost – a robust rival to native textile merchandise of silk, wool and linen. It induced a lot panic in France that in 1686, King Louis XIV introduced a ban on “Indian materials” which was enforced till 1759. Regardless of this, it remained common, and even King Louis XV’s mistress, Madame de Pompadour overtly flouted the foundations, utilizing the material In her wardrobe and residential.

Who invented Toile de Jouy?

Dress and furnishings in Toile de Jouy, a portrait of Oberkampf on the wall at the Musée de Toile de Jouy
Gown and furnishings in Toile de Jouy, a portrait of Oberkampf on the wall on the Musée de Toile de Jouy

When the ban was formally lifted, German-born Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf, a Paris-based textile engraver and designer, partnered with an investor to open an organization printing material in Jouy-en-Josas in 1760. It was the right location, just some miles Paris and Versailles, and close to a necessary river to offer water for the dye course of, and forest for firewood.

The factory at Jouy in 1807, the cloth laid out to dry, painted by Jean-Baptiste Huet
The manufacturing unit at Jouy in 1807, the material laid out to dry, painted by Jean-Baptiste Huet

Oberkampf’s printed patterns had been an instantaneous success. By 1793, earlier than the French Revolution, Toile de Jouy was the second most necessary manufacturing unit in France (Saint-Gobain, a glass manufacturing unit established in 1665 was the premier producer). At its peak some 1300 staff of Toile de Jouy toiled day and evening to provide materials which was exported all around the world used for garments and residential furnishings.

history of French Toile de Jouy

The material was costly however popuar, and definitely each aristocratic house had some. Louis XVI awarded the corporate the title of “Manufacture Royale” in 1783. By royal decree, Oberkampf marked his cloth “bon teint” – assuring the dye would final (aside from blue which was notoriously troublesome to make quick). Queen Marie-Antoinette cherished it and visited the manufacturing unit in 1781. Even after the French Revolution, Toile de Jouy was the material of selection. Napoleon Bonaparte visited the manufacturing unit twice and awarded Oberkampf the legion of Honour medal in 1806, and his spouse Empress Josephine adored the material.

Toile de Jouy flavoured bedroom at the Chateau of Lourmarin, Provence
Toile de Jouy flavoured bed room on the Chateau of Lourmarin, Provence

The manufacturing unit was to not have eternal success although, it went bankrupt within the 1840s. However, some 265 years after Oberkampf began his enterprise, Toile de Jouy model stays a outstanding design function in houses throughout France and past – the sample is featured on the handles of cutlery, candle holders, mattress linen, cushions, teapots and lampshades, something and every little thing. And go to any chateau in France, and also you’re certain to identify Toile de Jouy someplace – it’s a basic look.

Toile de Jouy’s timeless enchantment

King Louis XVI swearing an oath of loyalty to the people on the Altar of Liberty, Jean-Baptiste Huet, 1790
King Louis XVI swearing an oath of loyalty to the individuals on the Altar of Liberty, Jean-Baptiste Huet, 1790

A single color printed scene on a white background could not sound thrilling, however Oberkampf was revolutionary and imaginative. He used a copper-plate printing method, invented in Eire within the 1750s, which allowed patterns to develop into far more detailed. He employed high artists of the day to design patterns together with Jean-Baptiste Huet, a famend painter influenced by the Rococo model, and a member of the Royal Academy of Arts whose work was hung within the Louvre.

And in case you assume Toile de Jouy is all about girls on swings within the countryside, and picnics of the aristos, assume once more. The patterns had been enormously numerous. By the point of his loss of life in 1815, Oberkampf had listed 30,000 patterns. They included matters from common novels reminiscent of Robinson Crusoe and Don Quixote, Greek allegories, the fables of La Fontaine, overseas nations from Rome to Egypt, and present affairs together with manufacturing unit staff going about their day and the invention of sizzling air balloons – depicted floating over the Tuileries Gardens. Benjamin Franklin even made an look, and in 1790, the yr after the storming of the Bastille in Paris on July 14, which heralded the beginning of the French Revolution, Huet created a particular anniversary Bastille Day sample that includes King Louis XVI swearing an oath of loyalty to the individuals on the Altar of Liberty. Only a few years later, he was featured in a sample depicting his beheading.

Monuments of Egypt, Jean Baptiste-Huet, 1807
Monuments of Egypt, Jean Baptiste-Huet, 1807

Oberkampf created sample books which he despatched to his prospects worldwide, twice a yr. He based a chemistry faculty and despatched his staff there to enhance their studying. A brand new method required ‘pencillers’ to make use of their very own hair to color with – attaining an astonishing degree of complexity – basically every sample was a murals. He collaborated with different producers to function his patterns on matching china, wallpaper and furnishings.

The Musée de Toile de Jouy, within the Chateau d’Eglantine, has a blinding assortment – greater than 12,000 items together with materials from the 18th century to the current day, work, furnishings, instruments and extra. You may take a self-guided tour of the Museum (a lot of the shows are in French and English), and within the hotter months get pleasure from espresso within the fairly backyard. And in case you’re a fan of Toile de Jouy – depart loads of time to go to the fabulous store which is stuffed with fanciful, frivolous Toile issues.

You may stroll to the museum from the station (about quarter-hour) and trains run to the city direct from Versailles (from quarter-hour).

Toile de Jouy éclair at the Dolce Versailles restaurant
Toile de Jouy éclair on the Dolce Versailles restaurant

Benefit from the Toile theme additional on the close by Domaine de Montcel Dolce Versailles resort (dolcehotelversailles.com) which was the previous house of Oberkampf. The 18th century chateau has had a chequered previous, functioning as a boys boarding faculty from 1923-1980, besides from 1940-1944 when it was used because the headquarters of the German Air Pressure (a bunker remains to be within the grounds) with a lot of it burned down once they left. The constructing has modified palms a number of occasions since then and have become an inventive and cultural venue (two monumental fashionable artworks stay within the grounds). The listed backyard, which was the delight and pleasure of Madame Oberkampf, is superb. Don’t miss the Toile de Jouy themed eclairs right here – completely scrumptious and a becoming ode to the previous proprietor.

Toile de Jouy shoes
Toile de Jouy footwear within the museum’s boutique

The standard designs of Toile de Jouy have stood the check of time – an nearly 300-year-old vogue model that’s nonetheless on development.

Data image: Musee de la Toile de Jouy: museedelatoiledejour.fr

Janine Marsh is an creator and Editor of The Good Life France journal and web site.

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