I cherished chef Tomy Gousset’s cooking when he was at Pirouette, however this signature restaurant has simply blown me away. The room is comfy and a bit of plain, which is to say it suits properly within the seventh arrondissement, however Gousset’s delicacies is thrillingly trendy. He’s a grasp of utilizing herbs, acidity and texture to raise generally humble components like beef tongue or tête de veau. His compositions are intricate and colourful, making them a dream for Instagrammers, however taste and steadiness usually are not sacrificed to magnificence. Those that wish to strive totally different wines will love their listing with a rotating forged of 20 alternatives by the glass. Service is on level and helps, somewhat than detracts from the brilliance of the kitchen. The menu modifications frequently sufficient to warrant repeat visits, and I for one can’t wait to return.
Notable dishes:
- skinny tart of beef tongue with turnips, mustard seeds and gribiche
- vitello tonnato made with tête de veau and caper flowers
Deal with: 22, rue Surcouf, 75007
Hours: Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday & Sunday.
Phone: +33 1 45 51 46 93
On-line Reserving / Fb / Instagram
Tomy & Co. in pictures
In Different Phrases
Atabula (2017) Franck Pinay-Rabaroust says that Tomy Gousset has remained devoted to the method that introduced a lot success at Pirouette: exact seasoning, a way of generosity and merchandise that may generally shock. They draw consideration to his skinny tartlet of beef tongue with marinated turnips, mustard and gribiche (which we agree is scrumptious) for example of his dexterity in making elegant use of offal.
Les Grands Ducs (2016) Thierry Richard calls this a contemporary bistro that celebrates components, and says that chef Tomy Gousset is a grasp of taste and saucing, placing out dishes that stay in our reminiscences lengthy after we depart the desk. Specifically, he praises a dish of impeccably labored deer shoulder with autumn truffles and a jus of cacao.
John Talbott (2016) additionally loves the “rondelle of chopped beef tongue topped with an umbrella of overlapping pickled radish slices” and a dish of duck “made Apicius style with grapes and beets” that he calls “greater than excellent, it was out of this world.”
