The coast and countryside of the Pays d’Auge area spans the Norman departments of Calvados, Orne, and Eure. Sarah Daly explores three very distinctive cities.
Between the ports of Ouistreham and Le Havre, not removed from historic Caen, the stylish seaside cities of Deauville and Trouville are jewels of the ‘flowery coast’ of Decrease Normandy. To the south, rolling wooded countryside is dotted with fairly villages of half-timbered buildings, apple orchards and fields of brown and white Normandy cows. That is the homeland of cider, Calvados, and scrumptious native cheeses, together with one among France’s favourites, the creamy delicate Pont L’Eveque.
Trouville
Trouville is probably not fairly as well-known as its stylish next-door neighbour Deauville, nevertheless it is among the solely locations in France the place you’ll be able to step from the entrance gate of your trendy villa immediately on to a sandy seashore. The slim streets are full of fascinating retailers and attractive eating places, and the harbour entrance is residence to the imposing Marché aux Poissons the place you should buy – and eat – seafood straight from the boat. Legend has it that Trouville was based by the Vikings and is older than Deauville. This small fishing village turned well-known after native artist Charles Mozin exhibited work in Paris exhibiting the picturesque charms of Deauville.
It turned a preferred hang-out for Impressionist painters and grew into the elegant resort that we see at present. Trouville managed to flee the 2 world wars comparatively unscathed, though the half-timbered seafront villas have been integrated into the Nazi’s formidable Atlantic Wall fortifications, with some having concrete bunkers hooked up on the rear. The villas have been painted in drab colors to camouflage them after they turned the lodgings for senior officers. Now restored to their former glory, they supply a welcome perception into one other age.
The place to eat: Between 9am and 7pm from Monday to Sunday virtually every single day of the 12 months, the Halle aux Poissons fish market in Trouville serves contemporary seafood and shellfish on website. Whether or not you fancy oysters for breakfast, lobster for lunch or an enormous spider crab as a day snack, they’ve bought you coated. Simply carry your personal bread!
Locals love: In Trouville’s former aquarium, as soon as a part of the imposing Lodge de Paris, restaurant l’Aquarius, overlooks the seashore. As you’d anticipate, there’s an actual emphasis on seafood right here, all deliciously contemporary and superbly offered.
Lisieux
Lisieux suffered devastating bombardment by the Allies in World Warfare Two forward of its liberation in 1944. Because of this, this neat and compact city of round 55,000 inhabitants, has many mid-20th-century buildings alongside medieval half-timbered treasures. Probably the most spectacular characteristic is unquestionably the imposing, virtually century-old basilica, set excessive on a ridge overlooking the city and medieval cathedral. Inside, the basilica partitions are coated with mosaics illustrating the lifetime of Saint Thérèse. Born in 1873 she died at simply 24 in a Lisieux convent. Second solely to Lourdes, Lisieux welcomes round 30,000 pilgrims annually to honour her life and works, however for non-believers the basilica remains to be value a go to for its vibrant inside and the sheer scale and fantastic thing about its development.
Primarily based in a typical Norman half-timbered constructing, the city museum tells the story of Lisieux, from the Hundred Years’ Warfare, when it was captured by the English, up till World Warfare Two. Collections characteristic distinctive, glazed ceramics from the close by Pré d’Auge workshop.
And don’t miss the prospect to strive the world’s well-known apple brandy at close by Château du Breuil, residence to famend Calvados distillery La Spiriterie Française.
The place to eat: Located within the coronary heart of Lisieux, Les Soeurs Pinard is a full of life bar/restaurant with contemporary and imaginative dishes.
Locals love: Within the village of Manerbe, Le Pot d’Etain has a seafood and conventional French delicacies menu utilizing native and seasonal merchandise.
Pont L’Eveque
This historic city lies virtually precisely midway between Lisieux and the seaside cities of Deauville and Trouville. The medieval centre is filled with typical Normandy half-timbered structure and buildings which characteristic the area’s distinctive chequerboard Pré d’Auge glazed inexperienced bricks. The realm is legendary for Pont l’Eveque cheese. Manufacturing dates again to the early Center Ages, the cheese initially made by monks and named after the village the place they bought it at market. Good with a glass of refreshing native cider! On the native market you’ll discover many small, conventional producers of Pont l’Eveque promoting virtually completely to their native prospects. Head to the city corridor to go to the city’s former jail the place prisoners convicted of petty thefts have been allowed their freedom in the course of the day, returning for curfew each night.
Within the Nineteen Eighties, earth was excavated to assemble an extension of the A13 motorway previous the city. The realm naturally refilled and a lake with a seashore now covers almost 300 acres, an amazing base for water sports activities.
The place to eat: Eden Park lodge restaurant on the sting of the lake at Pont L’Eveque has beautiful views over the water.
Don’t miss
Comply with the Normandy cheese path and uncover sleepy villages, dairy farms and rolling fields – plus style a few of the creamiest, most delectable cheeses on the planet: normandycheesetrail
The place to remain
- Domaine Le Coq Enchanté is a little bit oasis of tranquillity nestled on the sting of the image postcard village of Cambremer.
- Pont L’Eveque: not removed from the coast, Il Etait une Fois is a stylishly renovated B&B in a really conventional Norman townhouse which additionally has a comfortable shepherd’s hut within the backyard.
Helpful web sites
Terre d’Auge Tourisme; Trouville Vacationer Workplace; Calvados Attractivité
Sarah Daly is a contract author who lives within the far north of France.
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