You will not discover any depraved witches or find yourself in Kansas, however following the Dijon Owl Path is one of the simplest ways to search out issues to do in Dijon and get to know the town.
Nonetheless, following owl indicators to get round is a bit peculiar, is not it?
Under no circumstances! Let’s name it a type of organized self-guided strolling round Dijon tour. By following the indicators, you possibly can see the highest sights in Dijon in underneath two hours in case you zap by means of, or spend many of the day in case you take your time and go to the whole lot alongside the way in which. The stroll’s period is as much as you.
You do not have to do that – you possibly can after all go to Dijon by strolling round by yourself. The Dijon Owl’s Path simply makes it simpler… and to me, extra enjoyable.
What’s all this about an owl in Dijon?
Owl path, you say? Or, because it’s identified in French, the Parcours de la Chouette.
The owl is the image of Dijon, and the Dijon Owl Path is the town’s method of mixing symbolism with practicality: simply comply with the (1600!) little owls set within the sidewalks of the Previous City and you will finally be guided previous 22 of the principle sights in your Previous Dijon go to.
Oh, and yet another factor… There may be an owl sculpture close by and also you’re speculated to pet it together with your left hand as a result of it has magical powers, however extra on that in a second.
Regardless of the owl’s recognition, nobody appears to understand how this symbolism got here to be. That it’s so intently recognized with Dijon is a thriller many have tried to pierce. Investigations have been launched, historic analysis undertaken, books written, however the owl’s origins stays elusive.
Nonetheless, everybody has an interpretation, and, who is aware of, one among them could right.
How the Dijon owl emerged from obscurity
A easy clarification could be that the owl, in Antiquity, was synonymous with knowledge, though the presence of such a pagan image on a Catholic church is questionable. Or, the little owl is likely to be a safety totem, designed to warn residents of impending hearth – many who couldn’t afford stone homes did reside in extremely flammable picket buildings, in spite of everything.
The owl may merely be the signature of an artist (one did exist with a equally sounding identify, Chouet…) or of the architect who designed Notre-Dame, towards whose wall the owl sits. This principle, nonetheless, has been debunked by those that level out that the Rue de la Chouette, or Owl Road, is definitely older than the church, which might imply the owl got here earlier than the church.
In line with one other legend relationship again tothe Center Ages, an architect discovered a wounded owl on his path. After nursing it again to well being, the owl helped the architect reconnoiter the church façade, to which some gargoyles had been to be added. Because the owl grew outdated and died, the architect sculpted this small facsimile in its honour.
How the owl grew to become an emblem of fine fortune
Not solely can we not pinpoint the owl’s origins, however we’re equally at the hours of darkness in terms of the custom of touching it (together with your left hand, whereas putting your proper hand in your coronary heart) and making a want.
Hearsay has it that within the late seventeenth century, a ghost appeared within the church and even a priest noticed it, creating fairly a stir. Whereas church officers did what church buildings do to eliminate evil spirits, the nice folks of Dijon, simply to be on the secure facet, developed an extra custom to thrust back these evil spirits: they stroked the owl after they walked by it.
Wherever the reality could lie, this little owl carries Dijon’s banner excessive, particularly for the reason that metropolis virtually misplaced it. In 2001, the owl was vandalized, almost destroyed, and the town was in shock. Fortunately, a mould of the statuette existed and it was restored, though you possibly can nonetheless see the injury.
At different occasions, it has been splashed with paint however once more, the Dijonnais will not stand for it, and it was rapidly cleaned.
They could not know the place it comes from, however the owl occupies an more and more giant place of their coronary heart and is the defacto image of the town.
Dijon owl path map
As you possibly can see, there’s a essential route, with numbers from 1-22. You even have an extra three routes known as Rousseau, Zola and Moïse. They’re contiguous so it is easy to do all of them in a single go.
Following the owl’s essential path
I am not going to stroll you thru each single cease alongside the path (though I’ll point out them).
As an alternative, I will level you in direction of a few of those who struck me notably, or whose backstories are offbeat or not directly distinctive.
For detailed directions on the Owl’s Path Dijon, you possibly can:
- get the Dijon owl path app (out there for Android however ask on the Dijon vacationer workplace about an iPhone model)
- take a look at the map above or discover a related one on-line
- purchase the Vacationer Workplace booklet
Now, most individuals begin at Jardin Darcy. It is handy, the tram stops right here, and it occurs to be #1 on the map. Nonetheless, the path is round, so you possibly can be part of at any level and easily comply with the pointers.
Bear in mind that the development of latest sidewalks could have lined up a couple of of the owl indicators. That is now being mounted and all indicators ought to shortly be again the place they belong. If a couple of are lacking, you will rapidly choose up the path once more in case you look at your Dijon sightseeing map.
1. Darcy Gardens
We all know that is the place the Owl’s Path begins, and it’s a welcome pearl of greenery by which to chill off on scorching summer season days.
However who was Darcy?
Henry Philibert Gaspard Darcy was a hydraulic engineer, a local of Dijon, who solved the town’s freshwater downside and gained worldwide fame by creating an equation associated to the stream of fluids.
And whereas the backyard appears to be like welcoming and crammed with sleek fountains, what it’s possible you’ll not know is that Darcy constructed the town’s water provide proper underneath the park in 1840. You possibly can go to the reservoir every year, when upkeep takes place and the water is drained (in regular occasions you’d could be underneath 5 meters of water).
At a time when Europe was suffering from diseases brought on by unclean water, Dijon’s sanitation system made it the world’s second best-supplied metropolis in consuming water, after Rome.
2. Facade of the Grand Hôtel de la Cloche
Together with your again to Darcy Backyard, you possibly can’t miss the Hôtel de la Cloche, the Lodge of the Bells.
Dijon has had a Hôtel de la Cloche for the reason that fifteenth century, however the earlier one was nearer to the middle. The lodge moved to its current web site as soon as Darcy Sq. was constructed within the late Eighteen Eighties.
Like many spectacular buildings, this one got here near being razed within the Nineteen Seventies, in that loopy wave of destruction and so-called modernization that stricken so many cities, not solely in France however worldwide. Furnishings was auctioned off, cutlery bought, and the bulldozers marched in – however the folks rallied, the destruction grew to become a nationwide trigger célèbre, and the engines had been stopped in time to save lots of the façade.
It was declared a nationwide monument, just about guaranteeing it might survive (politicians have, from time to time, been capable of override this standing and destroy buildings protected by regulation… however it does not occur usually).
It’s now the town’s solely five-star lodge and has hosted celebrities of all eras – Napoleon III, Grace of Monaco, Joan Baez, Maurice Chevalier, MC Solaar…
And the home windows are all embellished with bells which, after the owls, are in all probability Dijon’s subsequent hottest image.
3. Porte Guillaume
Nonetheless inside straightforward sight of the Jardin Darcy, this stand-alone arch, the Porte Guillaume, bears a slight resemblance to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, do not you suppose?
Throughout the Center Ages, a gateway was constructed right here to guard the town, with a tower on either side and a drawbridge. The gate was a part of the town’s ramparts. These finally stopped being important and in the course of the 18th century, it was determined to raze the outdated gate and construct this triumphal arch as an alternative.
Its mission: to present guests a way of Dijon’s grandeur and to honour the Prince of Condé, who ruled Burgundy on the time. The archway was named after him, till the following revolution, when it was rebaptized Gate of Freedom. It was lastly renamed after Guillaume de Volpiano, abbot of Saint-Bénigne.
It could stand alone at present, however in case you stretch your creativeness, you may be capable of visualize an older, much less ornate entryway, bordered by excessive partitions destined to maintain out invaders.
4. Poste Place Grangier
For those who’re an Artwork Nouveau lover, you will need to admire the highest of this nook constructing…
5. Les Halles
Just like the Grand Hôtel de la Cloche, Les Halles barely escaped the bulldozer. In 1975, it was slated for destruction and would have been dismantled – and changed with a car parking zone! – had it not been added to the nationwide listing of historic monuments. Greed, for as soon as, didn’t win out.
The iron construction is commonly attributed to Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame), probably as a result of he was born in Dijon and is recognized with the town. A lot as one may want to declare the indoor market as his, credit score for it goes as an alternative to a number of metropolis architects and engineers.
Earlier than Les Halles? The location was occupied by an outdated Jacobean convent.
For those who can time your arrival right here for lunch, please do. The market is open Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, and you will find each doable product underneath the solar in right here.
Seize a French baguette, some cheese and charcuterie, a little bit of wine… and have your lunch on a bench or within the Jardin Darcy. Failing that, strive one of many close by eating places round Les Halles however go early, they refill rapidly.
Sundays in summer season, Les Halles hosts brunches within the alleys of the market, to not be missed!
6. Place François Impolite
This sq.’s namesake was a Dijon-born sculptor, accountable for one of many main carvings on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. It is a comparatively current house, cleared simply over a century in the past. Simply bear in mind him and search for his panel on the Parisian Arch: it is known as La Marseillaise.
7. Rue des Forges
Wander down this avenue to admire a few of the luxurious residences constructed from the Center Ages to the Renaissance.
8. Notre-Dame
What on earth is a jacquemart??
I needed to look it up: it is an computerized bell-ringer (fabricated from metallic or wooden) which hits the bell each hour with a hammer. One of the well-known sits on prime of the Church of Notre Dame, and you’ll see it within the {photograph} under.
The 2 adults are known as Jacquemart and Jacqueline, and so they hammer the massive bell each hour.
The 2 smaller ones, Jacquelinet and Jacquelinette, do it on the quarter hour, on smaller bells.
What’s so uncommon about these is the date: Jacquemart (initially he was alone) got here to Dijon in… 1383. And sure, automation isn’t as current as we expect.
Jacquemart, together with the clock and massive bell, was introduced from Cambrai in Belgium by Philip the Daring, Duke of Burgundy and provided as a present to Dijon for having supplied him with 1000 armed males to battle in Flanders. (The bell broke on the way in which and needed to be recast…)
Jacqueline was added in 1651 and would strike alternate hours (would not need to tire out Previous Jacquemart). In 1714, Jacquelinet was added for the quarter-hours and at last, in 1884, Jacquelinette rounded out the household.
In France, one in 5 households is what is known as “nombreuse”, or quite a few, which means it has 4 kids or extra. Who is aware of, maybe we’ll be seeing the addition of one other little brother or sister…
Attempt to step again from the church – the angle isn’t best for {a photograph}, until you may have a correct DSLR digicam with lens. Utilizing an iPhone will provide you with the identical end result because it did me, above.
9. The Owl
And right here it’s, what you’ve got been ready for: the Owl!
Touching the owl together with your left hand is meant to deliver you luck, however watch out.
To the left of the owl, on one other wall, is a tiny dragon, (some say it is a salamander), so small it is easy to overlook. For those who stroll previous the owl and make a want after which stroll previous the dragon, that evil little dragon will steal your want. So if you would like it to return true, stroll previous the dragon first, after which the owl, and all can be wonderful.
10. Maison Millière
Generally known as the Doyenne of Dijon, this is likely one of the metropolis’s oldest half-timbered homes and will be dated again to 1483. It grew to become the property of a sure Guillaume Millière and his spouse, Guillemette, each drapers from close by Beaune.
On the time, a good older home stood on these premises however being undoubtedly fashionable, they razed it to construct larger and higher – and utilized for a tax rebate, which can not have been granted. Had Millière waited a couple of years, his great-grandson would have been Mayor of Dijon and people taxes may effectively have been erased from the chalkboard.
As homes do, this one handed by means of different fingers however by some means survived centuries, regardless of legal guidelines forbidding the renovation of picket homes (hearth hazards, proper?). Sooner or later it did heave a bit and was closed down, solely to reopen as a ironmongery shop in 1927. Extra restorations came about within the late Nineteen Nineties and turned it into the very best use: a restaurant (and conventional on-site boutique).
Up on the roof sits a black bronze cat, which after all has a superstition hooked up to it: as soon as you’ve got touched the Dijon owl, do not take a look at the cat, as a result of, just like the dragon/salamander, it may upend your want. Subsequent to the cat is a ceramic owl, whose job it’s to ensure your want speeds skyward. So make it a very good want, as a result of it appears quite a lot of acrobatics are concerned!
11. Lodge Vogüé
It is not a lodge in the true sense however an hôtel particulier, or townhouse, for rich Dijonnais. Now we have right here some traditional Burgundian structure with these glazed tiles on the roof, and a few particular Renaissance touches. Simply go see for your self.
12. Place du Théâtre and 13. Place de la Sainte Chapelle
I will allow you to uncover these by yourself - fantastic historic buildings that discover new life as cutting-edge cultural venues.
14. Sq. des Ducs
It is a nice spot of greenery, proper behind the dukes’ palace (see under) and an alternative choice to Darcy Park for that picnic with all these goodies you picked up at Les Halles. That is the sq. by means of which you enter the Tower of Philippe Le Bon, about which you will hear shortly.
15. Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy
Now half Metropolis Corridor and half Superb Arts Museum (Musée des Beaux Arts), this constructing had been, in flip, a ducal residence, a seat of presidency, and a house for the Senate.
And this is not even the unique; as is the case with many castles in France, this one burned down, and was then rebuilt. Twice.
The Superb Arts Museum is named among the best in France, and along with all of the artwork, you will be spellbound by the tombs of two (of the 4) Dukes of Burgundy.
Burgundy, as it’s possible you’ll know by now, was not all the time a part of France. In actual fact, it was allied with England a number of occasions, and as soon as ruled Flanders, in what’s now Belgium.
The Dukes of Burgundy had been members of the French royal household (not pleasant members – they wished to be kings themselves). Based mostly on the wealth of Flanders, which within the fifteenth century was a worldwide enterprise and monetary crossroads, Burgundy prospered. This palace was a part of that prosperity.
16. Tour Philippe le Bon
I hesitated lengthy and exhausting earlier than climbing the tower: 316 steps is nothing to sneer at, however it was value each heart-pumping step. This is the view.
It’s completely value your whereas, however be sure you reserve, as a result of you possibly can’t go up with out a information.
17. Place de la Libération
The sq. as soon as boasted a statue of Louis XIV however, like many kingly statues, it was melted into cannonballs in the course of the French Revolution. As we speak the sq. is lined with cafés and eating places, with a central fountain, dancing with lights after sundown, focuses the attention as we gaze on the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy straight forward.
18. Palais de Justice
By all accounts, this can be a beautiful constructing – besides that after I walked by, it was lined in scaffolding and being renovated. It ought to find yourself trying even higher…
19. Hôtels Particuliers
I’ve talked about these inns particuliers earlier and may rely about 75 – there are in all probability many extra. A number of are alongside the Owl Path, just like the Hôtel Vogüé, however you possibly can spot many others due to the plaques the town makes use of to establish them.
20. Saint-Jean et la Place Bossuet, 21. Saint-Philibert and 22. Saint-Bénigne
These three church buildings are every distinctive: Saint-Jean has been transformed right into a theater, Saint-Philibert dates again to the twelfth century (in the course of the revolution, it grew to become a secure after which a salt warehouse) and Saint-Bénigne is typical of the native gothic fashion and has a powerful glazed tile roof.
Bear in mind I discussed Dijon was known as the town of 100 bell towers? Sainte-Bénigne has the tallest of all of them.
Rousseau, Zola and Moïse Trails
Every of those “offshoot” trails begins from a distinct level alongside the Owl’s Path and are all as clearly marked as the principle path. Every is value a detour. For instance, the Zola Path takes you to the Couvent des Bernardines, a former convent which now homes the pleasant Museum of Burgundian Life.
The great thing about Dijon is that it’s simply visited on foot. And in case you get drained, you possibly can all the time hop on the free electrical Metropolis Shuttle, which comes by each ten minutes and stops at many of the main Dijon sights.
As soon as you’ve got completed with Dijon, discover the countryside: here is a enjoyable day journey from Dijon – it is quite a bit to pack right into a day however you will have a powerful sense of Burgundy and of the Côte d’Or département when you’re accomplished.
I visited Dijon in partnership with Vacation spot Dijon, the town’s vacationer workplace. They confirmed me the way in which however opinions are mine (I am extremely opinionated and plan to remain that method).
You may also like these tales!
Store this submit on Amazon
Pin these and save for later!
For those who favored this, please share it on social media!