Go to Le Cannet and uncover a beguiling hub of artwork, historical past and gastronomy the place la dolce vita meets artwork de vivre. Right here’s what to see and do in Le Cannet close to Cannes.
Cannes is famend for its French Riviera glitz and glamour, the well-known purple carpet rolled out for the swanky movie pageant, costly retailers, polished promenades, and seashores the place individuals go to see and be seen. However, a brief approach away, up a winding hill simply two kilometres from the seashores, sits Le Cannet, which till 1774 was a part of Cannes. Right here life has a fairly completely different really feel. Arriving early one morning, when the shutters have been simply creaking open and the scent of recent bread drifted by the slim lanes, luring me to affix a queue on the boulangerie, an area advised me, “Ici, on vit doucement,” right here, we dwell gently. And that, I quickly found, is the essence of Le Cannet.
Le Cannet – the ‘crown’ of Cannes
Le Cannet started as a humble hillside settlement within the Center Ages, its terraces carved into the panorama above Cannes like a crown. For hundreds of years, it was formed by agriculture – olive groves, figs, and vines, town’s park – Tivoli Gardens, is the place the previous fields as soon as have been. Within the 15th century, a brand new chapter unfolded. 140 Italian households crossed the close by border in search of work and a greater life. They introduced with them constructing abilities, culinary traditions, and a vibrant sense of group that also echoes within the city’s rhythms at the moment.
Then got here the artists. Chief amongst them was Pierre Bonnard, who lived right here for 27 years. Captivated by the golden gentle and Mediterranean hues, he painted prolifically till his loss of life in 1947. From his residence, Le Bosquet, nestled on a hillside wanting over the Bay of Cannes, Bonnard would climb the seven hills of Le Cannet to be impressed by the great thing about the surroundings, his work stuffed with color and light-weight, prompting Henri Matisse to name him “one of many best painters amongst us.” On the coronary heart of Le Cannet’s cultural life is the Musée Bonnard, which companions with the Musée d’Orsay in Paris and hosts common momentary exhibitions. It’s the one museum on the planet devoted fully to Bonnart. Pop to the vacationer workplace to select up a map to comply with within the footsteps of Bonnard and uncover his most lovely landscapes.
Lose your self within the outdated quarter, the place cobbled streets twist like ribbons between the pastel façades of Belle Epoque homes. Vibrant pink and purple bougainvillaea spills over balconies, and tiny squares open unexpectedly, revealing views that stretch all the way in which to the ocean.
Take a guided tour to find Le Cannet’s secrets and techniques and surprises (the vacationer workplace provides free guided excursions). My information Karine, a former France volleyball participant, took me on a delicate stroll and advised me of the city’s wealthy historical past, how the By way of Julia Augusta Roman highway ran by the city, that Saint Honorat got here right here within the fifth century, and the way it was believed that when you gave land to the church you’ll go to heaven and locals labored on the land for the monks. When plague decimated the south of France. It was the monks who inspired Italian households to return right here and work the fields.
As we walked, Karine identified doorways marked by a Maltese Cross – “the Templars used to have secret reunions right here, and the cross marks their assembly locations” she tells me. Broad stairs result in the higher city – “constructed for donkeys to go up and down.” It’s an interesting tour – and utterly free!
A city of artwork and artisans
Pop into the Tobiasse Chapel, a former 14th century chapel adorned by artist Théo Tobiasse – his theme “Life is a celebration” is an explosion of vibrant color. Le Cannet’s road artwork is monumental – from a large picture of Bonnard to a monumental fresco on the fabulous Maison Bellevue restaurant known as the Heritage Orange Tree which represents the 140 founding households who got here to Le Cannet from Italy.
The city has lengthy attracted artisans preferring quiet inspiration over Riviera glamour, says Le Cannet’s head of tourism Walid Chaabani. And in Rue Saint-Sauveur, it’s straightforward to see why the city has been awarded the ‘Metropolis and Crafts’ label, this lengthy winding road is chock stuffed with small ateliers the place artists and artisan nonetheless work by hand, painters capturing the identical gentle that enchanted Bonnard, ceramicists shaping earthy, sun-toned items, a cupboard maker, a seamstress who creates essentially the most lovely childrens garments, books, baggage and delightful issues.
Nicolas Canet at no. 258 makes delicate santon equipment – bushes, shepherds huts, gardens and extra for Provencal nativity scenes. A former architect, he studied to change into a priest, and says he adopted his ardour for santons in Le Cannet, “I did it my approach” he smiles.
Artisan Meggan at Wild Trivialities creates ethereal beaded jewelry that’s so covetable, you’ll battle to go away her boutique with out taking one thing residence to like ceaselessly.
There are specialist classic retailers and bijou cafés dotted in between the artists studios and it’s straightforward to spend a number of hours searching right here.
There are many wonderful eating places, a weekly market and terrfic meals retailers in Le Cannet – no matter you do, don’t miss boulangerie/café Mimi Faktory – one of the best madeleines I’ve ever had, made by chef/proprietor Sylvain Mathy, a French Nationwide Champion of Patisserie. Cheese lovers will love fromagerie Magasin Mons, and there’s an excellent Tuesday morning road market.
“Le Cannet’s culinary scene displays its Franco-Italian soul” says Walid. “Menus characteristic daube provençale alongside recent pasta.” At La Maison Bellevue restaurant in Place Bellevue, solar beams dance throughout tables shaded by leafy bushes, a slight breeze comes up from the ocean. With a view over the Bay of Cannes from the terrace the place a tinkling fountain cools the air, right here they serve the freshest fish and genuine Mediterranean delicacies, and for me, it is a true style of artwork de vivre and the proper place to whereas away a number of hours simply being within the second.
Le Cannet’s most well-known chef, Bruno Oger has two eating places, the two Michelin star Villa Archange with its world well-known delicacies (simply 10 minutes from the Croissette), and the Bistrot des Anges subsequent door which isn’t starred however has a wonderful (cheaper) menu.
Regardless of its proximity to Cannes, Le Cannet stays refreshingly underneath the radar. It’s a spot that attracts you in; its French class combined with Italian heat provides it a particular allure with its sun-dappled streets and the echo of artists previous and current. It’s a spot to decelerate, to look nearer, to really feel the sunshine as a lot as see it.
For extra info of what to see and do in Le Cannet – occasions, festivals, the place to remain and eat: lecannet-tourisme.fr/en
Janine Marsh is an writer and Editor of The Good Life France journal and web site.
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